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nissan
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Ok,so the way i see it you have 2 options.

1. run all five cables off your actuator back to the keyelss entry box you bought which will then hook into the cables coming off teh existing box.
2. Modify the existing harness to connect to the new actuator.
how many cables are in that plug that already in your door.
 

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nissan
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Did this over the weekend - worked a treat so thank you very much for the write up. Its amazing how easy it was once I found the box.

To fill in gaps you need to remove the glove box - you can then see the box located up above on the right hand side (towards the centre dash).

You can also remove the existing central control box as the replacement 386M does its job.

I thought it wasn't working which has me slightly frustrated until I realised the system won't lock with the drivers side door open - :withstup:
How good is it having central locking again! Especially with kids!

Ok, I worked it out.
For future reference, I bought a 386M unit from jaycar. Was 39 dollars. Has 2 remotes and a receiver, no motors.

I didn't actually need to go into the second unit near the drivers side. its almost impossible to get to anyway without pulling half the dash off.

I ended up cutting the two thick blue OEM cables which control the master door, the white/red battery, and the black earth.

I basically stripped all the wires that go to the three slave actuator(s), and only used the cables that go to the master actuator (in the pic).

White is not used
Red to battery
Black to earth

Then, looking at the cables that come off the master actuator, all you do is:
- Wire the brown & Green cables to one of the oem blue
- Wire the blue cable to the other oem blue cable.
- Wire the black cable to the earth (this must be done)

And that's it. I have key-less entry from 50 meters away.
The only thing I haven't worked out is the indicators. I know someone here said they are negative triggered, if so I'll need to go jaycar today and get a relay, because I don't have a negative trigger.

Does this look right



 

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nissan
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To support the images above and methodologies in this thread... the central locking module which is removed for the Jaycar kit is located in the void above the glovebox as per the circled area in the image below:

 

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nissan gu td42
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Got tired of my remotes not working properly even after replacing the battery only a week later not responsive.
A big thank you to all for the information especially Happpyg (Aaron) for pointing me in right direction.
New receiver installed all sweet doors lock and unlock from 30 plus meters away now very happy.
 

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Got tired of my remotes not working properly even after replacing the battery only a week later not responsive.
A big thank you to all for the information especially Happpyg (Aaron) for pointing me in right direction.
New receiver installed all sweet doors lock and unlock from 30 plus meters away now very happy.
Group effort, nice work! :)
 

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Currently in PAD rehab
nissan
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18,641 Posts
I just fit the jaycar 386M to my 2001 GU ST.

Thanks for all the posts above ive got it all done apart from the indicators on lock (i forgot to get a diode while at jaycar, ill leave that on the list of things to come back too.) I chose indicators on unlock by flipping a coin.

I did a bit of a combination of the previous posts, soldering to the existing white box and adding mini relays to convert to negative switched. If i could find a negative switched unit i would have grabbed one. Maybe the jbhifi unit would do it, but i cbf going all the way to have a look and their website bites.

Few pics







Any questions sing out.

The unit was about $40 and the relays about $5 ea. There is plenty of spare wire in the kit, the only other thing to get is a few diodes, spade crimp connectors, cable ties etc.

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Currently in PAD rehab
nissan
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Dont put the module where i had it in the other pic as you cant put the glovebox back in!

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Currently in PAD rehab
nissan
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It would be good to be able to pair aftermarket remotes to the genuine controller. I guess this is the next best thing..

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Currently in PAD rehab
nissan
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I just put the diodes in and now have flashing lights and remote range further than ever before.

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Currently in PAD rehab
nissan
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One thing ive noticed is that i can lock or unlock the doors with a door open.

If i lock the doors with the drivers door open, then close the drivers door it unlocks the doors. That might be a handy feature :)

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Finally I've had a gutful of my remote locking in my GU3 and have bought a JAYCAR Steel Mate 386M unit. Now $50.

I'm not the brightest electrical dude on the planet and I wanted to try and install this with a minimum of snipping and soldering.

I've tried to follow the excellent write ups but need to paint myself a pretty picture to connect the Nissan wiring to the new unit and not bugger anything up.

My plans are to hopefully remove the white Nissan module and just wire the new one in its place.

The attached rudimentary drawing is my attempt to match up the original wires to the new module.

I am hoping someone who's more proficient at these things can help audit the drawing, correct any errors and fill in some gaps.

For example why are there 4 wires (I've labelled B,C,K,M) going to what I've labelled Actuator 1 - are they all required e.g. do the blue n green wires just go on to actuators 2,3,4 ?

I also don't understand the negative switch bit. Help please.
 

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nissan
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After re-reading all of the posts I have successfully installed the Steelmate 386M remote locking purchased from Jaycar.

I ended up coning up with an option to hack the connector off the existing PCB and soldered the wires from the new unit it onto that - and preserved the factory wiring that goes from the old unit to the main door and indicators.

I ended up only using 6 wires on the new unit.

From my rough sketch above

Wire A red power connects to 10 on the OEM plug which has a white/red wire on my GU

Wire B Green to actuator connects to 9 on the OEM plug which has a blue wire

Wire C Blue ton actuator connects 7 on the OEM plug which has a blue/red wire

Wire D brown wire to indicator connects to 11 on the OEM plug which has a white/red wire

Wire E brown wire to indicator connects to 12 on the OEM plug which has a white/red wire

Wire I black earth wire connects to 8 on the OEM plug which has a black/pink wire on my car

I was originally going to also connect Wire M but my testing resulted in nothing working so I left it disconnected to anything

I also found that my first attempt the doors would open by pressing the close button and close by pressing the open button

I reversed the positions of D and E and the buttons work fine

The indicators worked first time - beginners luck

So a big thank you to all the contributors above - I can finally lock and unlock my car from more than 2 metres and will hopefully only run out if battery showing off by using the fob from the house they the back window to the car

Best $50 I've ever spent on the truck !!

PS - my install was made much easier due to the fact I have no passenger air bag and have fitted a second glove box :)

I positioned the unit out of sight using the Velcro provided with the unit.
 

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nissan patrol
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due to the fact i'm a chippie & hopeless with electrical issues, could someone help me out with this in return for a fridge slide or something I can make to professional standards.
electrical stuff in general just confuses me, but I've had a gutful of crap central locking & buying batteries for it to stop working 2 days later.
sooooooo........any takers????
pm me please.
 

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Nissan patrol gu
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63 Posts
A little bit off topic. The central locking buttons for my 05 4.2td ****e themselves a few years ago. I purchase two genuine locking buttons and need to get them coded. Nissan dealer wants $100 to code each button. Highway robbery I thought so I have not yet had them done. Is there anywhere else that I could try and have them recoded.


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nissan
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Bought a $15 central locking module with remotes on ebay been working for over a year now no problems


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Grenade Master
Nissan Patrol 05
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Just did the mod in GU4, the price for Jaycar unit has increased somewhat ($49.95 AUD) still worth every cent.

Couple of notes to the previous posters especially post #53 and 54...

The view of the OEM plug drawn is mirror imaged therefore pins numbering is reversed as such.

Nissan plug #M129
Pin#3 green/red ......... RHS indicators
Pin#4 green/yellow .....LHS indicators
Pin#5 red/white .......... B+
Pin#6 blue ................. Unlock
Pin#7 black/pink ......... B- (earth/ground)
Pin#16 blue/red ............ Lock

The rest of the wires are not used/needed/irrelevant

Another note, there is no requirement at least on GU4 to add relays to get the indicators working as positive circuit is used.

Overall it is very easy mod to do, IMHO no need for soldering anything as OEM box will never ever go back in, just cut the required 6 wires off and add your own plug.

Even for those who are unable/unwilling to perform electrical installations, stop wasting your hard earned cash on Ni$$an remotes etc, just purchase either Jaycar unit (Steel mate 386M) or any other similar unit and take it to nearest auto sparky and you'll be out of there in less than 45 mins with perfectly functioning remote locking/unlocking.

I only wish I have discovered this thread earlier.... I spent 10 years fighting with those Nissan crap remotes!

Regards
 
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