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nissan
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Discussion Starter #1
So need some ideas where to mount a bunch of carling style switches in a 2013 gu wagon. going to need to have at least 12 if not more. don't mind having them in 2 separate banks. roof console is not an option due to uhf going there. And don't have room to put them on the dash. so any ideas will be greatly appreciated
 

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Wow 12 seems excessive but I'd be looking at something like this in the pocket in the dash for a late series.



No fuses, no relays, no wiring back and forth to switches but only does 8 circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow 12 seems excessive but I'd be looking at something like this in the pocket in the dash for a late series.



No fuses, no relays, no wiring back and forth to switches but only does 8 circuits.

yeah have been looking at them but they are limited on id stickers. haha 12 isnt excessive i have a fair few things needing to be switched, and i have thought of all of them yet.
so pretty much will need. air compressor, front locker, rear locker, winch power, winch in/out, winch freespool, roof light bar, bullbar light bar, rock lights, rear lights, left side light, right side lights. and a few other like thermo fan cut off/ override, abs and vsc override. and more hahaha so it will be tight.

cheers for the option with the sunglasses holder but that getting removed. and that lower panel i looked at but then have the issue with where do i put the subtank switch and rear ac.

looks like the main option is going to be switch pros, or custom roof console instead of buying an outback one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oh and sorry guys its in my 2013 wagon. i dont have the ute anymore sold that to buy the new rig
 

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Grenade Master
GU4 05
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After seeing this thread I decided to have a look at Kenay customs switch panel in lower dashboard.
TBH the idea is brilliant but the execution is rather poor....

Has anyone got the aftermarket Kenay Kustoms Subtank switch working correctly?

So a bit of background:

I've ordered the switch panel and while there noticed advertised subtank replacement switch with adapter harness which apparently works correctly (at that time I didn't really pay attention to what that meant) so got that one as well.

After 8 weeks wait (ordered "incorrect" LED colour) got the package, had a quick look and put it on the shelf in the shed to play with at later date. Completely forgotten about it of course until I received email from Kenay asking me to post them a photo or two of my install.

So decided to fit the panel and the subtank switch so I could post some photos to them.,..

Well, the panel doesn't fit without modifying, the subtank switch neither the illumination nor the actuation light works.

Then decided that I might as well consolidate all my switches (to have alll of them matching) in to that panel went to look at Kenay what other switches they have. Not good and as theirs are custom engraved with completely different pattern as well I thought asking if they could help me out. Heard nothing in reply...

In the meantime I'm being contacted by the Kenay custom owner asking me for the photos and I casually mention the need for customised switches. We go back and forth with replies that yes "we can"! After price details via emails I send confirmation go ahead and after that they've gone silent.


So, looking more in to it I have since discovered that one can use any Carling switch "actuator" (V series Contura II, III and IV) with any Carling V series Contura 2,3,4 base. Those actuators are easily replaced by using a tool ==>

521951


Back to Nissan subtank switch: the problem is that the way it is all wired up the Nissan subtank switch "pump running" LED indicator/feedback is negatively (ground) switched where Carling switches are positive or plus switched.

So Kenay uses tiny trick in the adapter harness called "photo transistor optocoupler to invert negative signal for idicator lamp to positive.

After gutting the heat shrinked isulation I found the tiny bugger and as to why it isn't working is no longer my concern.
The switch illumination was also incorrectly wired up in the adapter harness, Note to Kenay: pin 7 is common ground on Carling switches and Pin 8 is back light or illumnination positive trigger not other way around!

Carling switches actuators can also be flipped 180 deg so the actuation is reversed e.g. instead of push up (US style) to actuate we can reverse to push down (Metric style) and swap pin 3 and 8 illumination as well.

Regards
 

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Every dog has his day
nissan
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18,138 Posts
If there’s a space, wouldn’t it be easier to extend the factory sub tank wiring and put the factory switch next to other factory switches in a blank (if available) say next to gearstick or to right of steering wheel, then you can use carlings for all six or whatever it is in the kenay console panel?
 

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Grenade Master
GU4 05
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2,609 Posts
If there’s a space, wouldn’t it be easier to extend the factory sub tank wiring and put the factory switch next to other factory switches in a blank (if available) say next to gearstick or to right of steering wheel, then you can use carlings for all six or whatever it is in the kenay console panel?
Therein lies the problem, there is little sace for factory Subtank switch there, its huge bugger. Interestingly I've seen photos where that switch is mounted in the console next to gear lever so it makes me wonder. Typical Ni$$an!

Anyway, it is easier to wire in relay to convert OEM switch operation to Carling switch function.

Regards
 

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4x4nissan
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60 Posts
After seeing this thread I decided to have a look at Kenay customs switch panel in lower dashboard.
TBH the idea is brilliant but the execution is rather poor....

Has anyone got the aftermarket Kenay Kustoms Subtank switch working correctly?

So a bit of background:

I've ordered the switch panel and while there noticed advertised subtank replacement switch with adapter harness which apparently works correctly (at that time I didn't really pay attention to what that meant) so got that one as well.

After 8 weeks wait (ordered "incorrect" LED colour) got the package, had a quick look and put it on the shelf in the shed to play with at later date. Completely forgotten about it of course until I received email from Kenay asking me to post them a photo or two of my install.

So decided to fit the panel and the subtank switch so I could post some photos to them.,..

Well, the panel doesn't fit without modifying, the subtank switch neither the illumination nor the actuation light works.

Then decided that I might as well consolidate all my switches (to have alll of them matching) in to that panel went to look at Kenay what other switches they have. Not good and as theirs are custom engraved with completely different pattern as well I thought asking if they could help me out. Heard nothing in reply...

In the meantime I'm being contacted by the Kenay custom owner asking me for the photos and I casually mention the need for customised switches. We go back and forth with replies that yes "we can"! After price details via emails I send confirmation go ahead and after that they've gone silent.


So, looking more in to it I have since discovered that one can use any Carling switch "actuator" (V series Contura II, III and IV) with any Carling V series Contura 2,3,4 base. Those actuators are easily replaced by using a tool ==>

View attachment 521951

Back to Nissan subtank switch: the problem is that the way it is all wired up the Nissan subtank switch "pump running" LED indicator/feedback is negatively (ground) switched where Carling switches are positive or plus switched.

So Kenay uses tiny trick in the adapter harness called "photo transistor optocoupler to invert negative signal for idicator lamp to positive.

After gutting the heat shrinked isulation I found the tiny bugger and as to why it isn't working is no longer my concern.
The switch illumination was also incorrectly wired up in the adapter harness, Note to Kenay: pin 7 is common ground on Carling switches and Pin 8 is back light or illumnination positive trigger not other way around!

Carling switches actuators can also be flipped 180 deg so the actuation is reversed e.g. instead of push up (US style) to actuate we can reverse to push down (Metric style) and swap pin 3 and 8 illumination as well.

Regards
Interesting. Got mine a few months ago. Fitted perfect and sub tank switch was plug and play no dramas.
Purchased other switches off them but had a bigger of a time working out how the 4 pin rocker was meant to be wired up. All good now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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If you are still having problems with getting it to work then talk to Kenny Mallard at Kenay Customs, I have found he is usually very helpful and accommodating if there are any issues.
 

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If there’s a space, wouldn’t it be easier to extend the factory sub tank wiring and put the factory switch next to other factory switches in a blank (if available) say next to gearstick or to right of steering wheel, then you can use carlings for all six or whatever it is in the kenay console panel?
I'm trying to move my auto transmission mode switch (the hold/auto/power mode) out of the normal position and over close to the shifter. Bloody Nissan switches have a big bulky thing behind them and a silly screw on holder behind the panel which makes it hard to find space.
 

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Every dog has his day
nissan
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18,138 Posts
Fair enough, I’ve never tried to move a factory one so sounds like I was barking up the wrong tree.

Carry on 😆
 
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