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Discussion Starter #1
So my 99 factory td42 has run on a couple of times after turning it off. Quite minor but still runs on. A bit a reading suggest s maybe fuel cut solenoid or dribbling injector.
I have a GQ 10mm pump, will the fuel cut solenoid off that fit the Gu and is it a hard job?
Any other thoughts appreciated!
Thanks
 

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Mine did this couple times......then never again.
No idea why, and wasnt after a 4wd trip, just run down to local dog beach car park and back.

No idea why, or why it hasnt done it again.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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Mine runs on all the time now - used to be infrequent. I know mine is the fuel cut solenoid because the injectors are brand new and it runs on too smooth to be one or two injectors weeping. Mine has NATS, which makes the job a lot harder - I’ll prob pull the pump out so I can preserve the NATS module. If yours doesn’t have NATS then prob not too hard - I think it needs a 24mm spanned.
 

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If you have a look depending on where the NAT's is if you have it, it could be easier to pull it out by removing the whole bracket if the large lock nut is too hard to get at.
 

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Mine runs on, particularly badly when cold. Sometimes I can only stop the engine by putting it in gear and stalling it. Works fine when warm.
I thought it was engine blow-by that caused it to run on oil vapour. Its done 320,000km.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mine runs on, particularly badly when cold. Sometimes I can only stop the engine by putting it in gear and stalling it. Works fine when warm.
I thought it was engine blow-by that caused it to run on oil vapour. Its done 320,000km.
Maybe, mines done 370km
 

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Mine did this couple times......then never again.
No idea why, and wasnt after a 4wd trip, just run down to local dog beach car park and back.

No idea why, or why it hasnt done it again.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Hopefully mine is like yours ! Lol
 

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A "Dribbling injector" as I see spoken of regularly is not going to cause a engine to run on, or cause white smoke on start up which is another popular one. You are not going to get enough fuel for that to happen, there still has to be some pumping going on for this to happen.
This is not an uncommon thing, and typically a stop solenoid change is not the cure either.
Had a pump on the bench a while ago we removed from a car doing this. It had had the solenoid changed.
At idle 375rpm (rpm is at bench speed, which is half engine speed) pull the wire from the solenoid and it would cut fuel, drop the rpm down to 300rpm and still had fuel cut, drop to 250, still fuel cut, but drop it to 200rpm, and it would clime to 5cc, then 6,7,8 causing the engine to not shut down correctly.
So it was not related to the stop solenoid. Put new head and rotor in the pump, same thing, change deliver valves to a different style, problem went away.
Had another not long after, same thing was happening, but changing delivery valves didn't fix the issue. Much head scratching going on at this stage.
It has something to do with the lever position in my view, pump setup as the rpm drops near start fueling.
Very weird one.
Also had vehicles that would or wouldn't do it depending on if you turned the key off only to accessories or all the way off.
 

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Bambill, that is very useful info for my situation. I've assumed it was the stop solenoid because of how smooth it runs - albeit at very slow speed. Holding the revs high or a boot full of throttle on shutdown makes no difference. I may be experiencing similar to what you described. I'll replace the solenoid as I want to replace the NATS sheer bolts with removable ones anyway and will report back on outcomes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A "Dribbling injector" as I see spoken of regularly is not going to cause a engine to run on, or cause white smoke on start up which is another popular one. You are not going to get enough fuel for that to happen, there still has to be some pumping going on for this to happen.
This is not an uncommon thing, and typically a stop solenoid change is not the cure either.
Had a pump on the bench a while ago we removed from a car doing this. It had had the solenoid changed.
At idle 375rpm (rpm is at bench speed, which is half engine speed) pull the wire from the solenoid and it would cut fuel, drop the rpm down to 300rpm and still had fuel cut, drop to 250, still fuel cut, but drop it to 200rpm, and it would clime to 5cc, then 6,7,8 causing the engine to not shut down correctly.
So it was not related to the stop solenoid. Put new head and rotor in the pump, same thing, change deliver valves to a different style, problem went away.
Had another not long after, same thing was happening, but changing delivery valves didn't fix the issue. Much head scratching going on at this stage.
It has something to do with the lever position in my view, pump setup as the rpm drops near start fueling.
Very weird one.
Also had vehicles that would or wouldn't do it depending on if you turned the key off only to accessories or all the way off.
Thanks for your insight!
On a side note, very happy with my clutch and 200hp pump, combined with 16g from ufi for my GQ! 👍
 

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Is this happening on a new mod pump????
Very unusual, my above comments are based in rebuilt or old pumps.
if its a new mod pump, call me.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is this happening on a new mod pump????
Very unusual, my above comments are based in rebuilt or old pumps.
if its a new mod pump, call me.
No different cars, the run on is my Gu 370 km. The new pump is on the gq, very happy completely different car. I can actually overtake going up hills lol
 

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An update. I've pulled the pump now and replaced the fuel stop solenoid. After a couple of runs it seems better, but still not the clean shutdown it had when new. I'll see how it goes for a couple of weeks, and if still running on I'll reduce timing advance and see what happens, as that's the only thing of any significance I had changed when the running on started happening - even though I can't see how timing could cause this...It's currently set at .70mm.

For those changing out the solenoid with NATS. I pulled the pump so I could remove the sheer bolts. Drilled them and used an easy out - that bit not too difficult. The new solenoid I got (supposedly a genuine part) had a raised ridge around where the NATS bracket mounts - the original was smooth. Ended up grinding the ridge off and it worked out fine. Replaced sheer bolts with ones I can remove if stuck in the desert, but NATS still works for the casual thief to fight with...
 
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