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Hi all,

So a few weeks back I bought my first GU, engine has had a full rebuild with receipts & about 50,000kms driven since rebuild was done. EGR blocked, 3" echaust fitted and dyno sheets showing boost up to be 18psi I believe on stock boost solenoid.

Now, at first all I had was the usual limp mode from the EGR being blocked as well as the check engine light from the EGR, the boost would spike up to 20psi and be in a limp mode until you let off the accelerator and back on again, it was annoying for long trips on the highway but still driveable. So my plan was to get a HPD manual boost controller fitted to fix the limp mode issues. But I noticed one day that the boost was running slightly lower then when I first bought her, she would only go to around 14psi which I thought nothing of until the boost controller was going to be fitted.

Then after filling up with diesel, around 10 minutes into my drive home I felt a weird jerk/judder in the car almost like all fuel just cut out for s split second then back to normal. Watching the boost gauge, the boost also dropped out too as you would expect so I thought it was a boost problem. It slowly got worse over time becoming a lot more frequent it does it just above 2,000rpm and around 10-13psi of boost, started in 5th gear, now in 4th and 3rd as well but only around those rpms and boost levels. It also took a bit longer to start in the mornings letting out a puff of white smoke I think, not blue.
I took it to a diesel specialist about an hour away as I'm in regional Victoria and they called me the next day and said they scanned the car and got a code for the camshaft position sensor and the injection pump, so they said the issue is definitely the injection pump which they quoted me $5000 to do the job. I don't have that kind of $$ at the moment haha but after doing a bit of research on forums I've read up on MAF voltage causing the same kind of symptoms as well as a blocked fuel filter/air in the lines. I did clean the MAF with MAF cleaner before and it made no difference so while it was at the diesel specialist, I just told them to change the fuel filter for now and see if that makes a difference. So $150 later just for that, the guy called me saying that the car was running alright and didn't notice it playing up again, he also said they took the plugs off the injection pump and sprayed them with contact cleaner and all the codes disappeared aswell?

I was very happy with that as you'd imagine. So I picked it up the next day and it was another hour to drive back home in which it was bound to do the same things if it wasn't fixed. On the way home it drove fine, only jolted/juddered about 4 times max (it would easily do it over 30 times before) so I thought replacing the fuel filter must have done something. I've had it back about a week almost and just been driving it to and from work, 5 mins there and 5 back. It's gone back to doing the same thing as before except this morning it wouldn't start after about 2 minutes of trying, it would crank but not start. I don't have a code reader that can read it. I did call Nissan and spoke to a mechanic for about 5 minutes and he said there's 3 common things to check first before replacing the pump, can't remember what they were off the top of my head but I do remember him saying something about the spill valve?
I'm just wondering if anyone has had the same problems and what they did or their solutions before I spend $5000 on the injection pump and it may not even fix the problem.

Thanks, Ben
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Hi all,

So a few weeks back I bought my first GU, engine has had a full rebuild with receipts & about 50,000kms driven since rebuild was done. EGR blocked, 3" echaust fitted and dyno sheets showing boost up to be 18psi I believe on stock boost solenoid.

Now, at first all I had was the usual limp mode from the EGR being blocked as well as the check engine light from the EGR, the boost would spike up to 20psi and be in a limp mode until you let off the accelerator and back on again, it was annoying for long trips on the highway but still driveable. So my plan was to get a HPD manual boost controller fitted to fix the limp mode issues. But I noticed one day that the boost was running slightly lower then when I first bought her, she would only go to around 14psi which I thought nothing of until the boost controller was going to be fitted.

Then after filling up with diesel, around 10 minutes into my drive home I felt a weird jerk/judder in the car almost like all fuel just cut out for s split second then back to normal. Watching the boost gauge, the boost also dropped out too as you would expect so I thought it was a boost problem. It slowly got worse over time becoming a lot more frequent it does it just above 2,000rpm and around 10-13psi of boost, started in 5th gear, now in 4th and 3rd as well but only around those rpms and boost levels. It also took a bit longer to start in the mornings letting out a puff of white smoke I think, not blue.
I took it to a diesel specialist about an hour away as I'm in regional Victoria and they called me the next day and said they scanned the car and got a code for the camshaft position sensor and the injection pump, so they said the issue is definitely the injection pump which they quoted me $5000 to do the job. I don't have that kind of $$ at the moment haha but after doing a bit of research on forums I've read up on MAF voltage causing the same kind of symptoms as well as a blocked fuel filter/air in the lines. I did clean the MAF with MAF cleaner before and it made no difference so while it was at the diesel specialist, I just told them to change the fuel filter for now and see if that makes a difference. So $150 later just for that, the guy called me saying that the car was running alright and didn't notice it playing up again, he also said they took the plugs off the injection pump and sprayed them with contact cleaner and all the codes disappeared aswell?

I was very happy with that as you'd imagine. So I picked it up the next day and it was another hour to drive back home in which it was bound to do the same things if it wasn't fixed. On the way home it drove fine, only jolted/juddered about 4 times max (it would easily do it over 30 times before) so I thought replacing the fuel filter must have done something. I've had it back about a week almost and just been driving it to and from work, 5 mins there and 5 back. It's gone back to doing the same thing as before except this morning it wouldn't start after about 2 minutes of trying, it would crank but not start. I don't have a code reader that can read it. I did call Nissan and spoke to a mechanic for about 5 minutes and he said there's 3 common things to check first before replacing the pump, can't remember what they were off the top of my head but I do remember him saying something about the spill valve?
I'm just wondering if anyone has had the same problems and what they did or their solutions before I spend $5000 on the injection pump and it may not even fix the problem.

Thanks, Ben
In the DI archives there is a thread on how to test all MAFs at home, all you need is a cheap multimeter. Mate there are so many things your problem could be, if you have a look at the bible in the archives it gives a method of getting codes from the ECU without a reader, a bit time consuming but works.
Limp works on exceeding specific MAF voltages at specific revs for a specific timeframe, 18psi on a stock vehicle will cause MAFv to exceed the limits, the ECU will not limp on boost alone until you are up in the high 20's range. DI's are renowned for erratic boost control jumping around quite a bit. Do you actually have a boost gauge or are you going totally off dyno sheet?
Cranking but not starting can often cause a 73 code, pump communication, but it does not always mean the pump is dead, air in the system can cause that. If you can get a bit of clear hose fit it between the filter outlet and the injector pump and start the vehicle, if you see a stream of bubbles in the line it means the pump is sucking air from somewhere along the line.

Things I would check.
How many pumps does it take for the primer to go hard with engine off?
Do you park it nose up an incline?
Have you thoroughly inspected the vacuum and boost hoses for damage, especially under the intercooler?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In the DI archives there is a thread on how to test all MAFs at home, all you need is a cheap multimeter. Mate there are so many things your problem could be, if you have a look at the bible in the archives it gives a method of getting codes from the ECU without a reader, a bit time consuming but works.
Limp works on exceeding specific MAF voltages at specific revs for a specific timeframe, 18psi on a stock vehicle will cause MAFv to exceed the limits, the ECU will not limp on boost alone until you are up in the high 20's range. DI's are renowned for erratic boost control jumping around quite a bit. Do you actually have a boost gauge or are you going totally off dyno sheet?
Cranking but not starting can often cause a 73 code, pump communication, but it does not always mean the pump is dead, air in the system can cause that. If you can get a bit of clear hose fit it between the filter outlet and the injector pump and start the vehicle, if you see a stream of bubbles in the line it means the pump is sucking air from somewhere along the line.

Things I would check.
How many pumps does it take for the primer to go hard with engine off?
Do you park it nose up an incline?
Have you thoroughly inspected the vacuum and boost hoses for damage, especially under the intercooler?
Thanks for the reply.
I can have a look tomorrow about checking the MAF voltages, weather is really **** right now and its just parked on the driveway, I will also check the codes, I did try and bridge terminals 1 & 8 but the check engine light wouldn't flash?
I do have a boost gauge but it goes all over the place, on idle it's swinging like a pendulum from 1 to -2 or such but really fast and if I rev it then the boost goes up like normal.
I can buy some clear hose and check for any air tomorrow aswell, do you know what size will fit?

1) I have not checked the primer but I can definitely do that too!
2) Nope, I park it flat all the time
3) I have not really checked the vacuum/boost lines but I did notice one or 2 looked a bit worn/frail?
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Get hold of a metre or so 10mm - 3/8" clear hose and you can push over and clamp, grab a couple of suitable hose clamps while your at it, a handy bit of gear to keep in your shed/garage for tests like this in the future. The gauge maybe behaving OK on a std vehicle there is basically no boost at idle, if it is behaving as you accelerate it is probably OK. Still, DI's are known for boost jumping around while driving, back in the old days while learning about mine I've had boost drop off to 2psi while cruising at 100K and other times spike to 20+, all sorts of weird things would happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Get hold of a metre or so 10mm - 3/8" clear hose and you can push over and clamp, grab a couple of suitable hose clamps while your at it, a handy bit of gear to keep in your shed/garage for tests like this in the future. The gauge maybe behaving OK on a std vehicle there is basically no boost at idle, if it is behaving as you accelerate it is probably OK. Still, DI's are known for boost jumping around while driving, back in the old days while learning about mine I've had boost drop off to 2psi while cruising at 100K and other times spike to 20+, all sorts of weird things would happen.
So I got a bit of good news! (hopefully) 😁

Went away for the weekend so haven't had much time to do any testing until I got back today. I took the terminal leads off the battery and left it to charge properly over the 2 days, so battery is charged up all nice. Tried to get some clear 10mm hose from Supercheap, Repco and Autobarn but none of them had any, even went to a motorbike shop and they didn't have any either so I can't check if there are any air bubbles in the fuel lines yet :rolleyes:
With the engine off, it takes about 2-3 times of priming before the primer goes hard.

What I did when I got back was, I removed the ECU connector harness (10mm screw) and gave that a good spray with contact cleaner as well as all the pins, then connected it back up. I also took the boost sensor off the intercooler and gave that a good spray with MAF cleaner. Then I connected everything back up and proceeded to start the car, and it started first try without any issues and little to no white smoke like before. It definitely took a few tries to start before when I was having all the issues from the OP, but no issues starting at all this time. I let it idle for 10 or so minutes before turning it off and checking visually for any leaks, didn't find any. I added some diesel injector cleaner in the main tank before I try filling it up with diesel again (I'm just under 1/4 tank of the diesel I used when I started having these problems I think), and then started it up once more, again, there was no smoke at all and it started beautifully! I let it sit for another couple of minutes before taking it for a little drive up the road and back (around 5 minutes total), it would definitely be doing it's usual symptoms but I didn't notice any at all yet so fingers crossed I'm getting onto something here, although I wasn't driving it like I stole it at this point just like I usually would.

I'm still not 100% convinced I've fixed the issue but I have done something I believe so I will take it to Nissan and get one of the mechanics I spoke to a week back who has worked on plenty of ZD30s to have a good look and check for any codes/IP codes with their scanner and wait for them to tell me what they think might be causing my issues.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@geeyoutoo So after leaving the car overnight and trying to start it this morning, it wouldn't start. I did however manage to extract some ECU fault codes which are as following;

1003 - EGR Volume Control Valve
0406 - INT / AIR Volume (Excessively High Signal From MAF)
0407 - Crankshaft Position Sensor
0705 - Pump Control Module

So my questions are;
1) Would the MAF signal be causing my issues with hesitating and also causing the Injector Pump to send incorrect amount of fuel hence why the 0705 code? In other words, is the Injector pump code coming up because of the MAF code?
2) Does the crankshaft position sensor have anything to do with my starting issues?
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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@geeyoutoo So after leaving the car overnight and trying to start it this morning, it wouldn't start. I did however manage to extract some ECU fault codes which are as following;

1003 - EGR Volume Control Valve
0406 - INT / AIR Volume (Excessively High Signal From MAF)
0407 - Crankshaft Position Sensor
0705 - Pump Control Module

So my questions are;
1) Would the MAF signal be causing my issues with hesitating and also causing the Injector Pump to send incorrect amount of fuel hence why the 0705 code? In other words, is the Injector pump code coming up because of the MAF code?
2) Does the crankshaft position sensor have anything to do with my starting issues?
Good chance MAF is dead, search for thread 'how to test all mafs at home'.
Many things can cause a pump code, just not starting within a timeframe can do that.
CPS can stop a vehicle stone dead, this is where info is referenced, so check sensor and wiring connections.
I would clear codes then try again and see what returns and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good chance MAF is dead, search for thread 'how to test all mafs at home'.
Many things can cause a pump code, just not starting within a timeframe can do that.
CPS can stop a vehicle stone dead, this is where info is referenced, so check sensor and wiring connections.
I would clear codes then try again and see what returns and go from there.
So with the engine OFF (cause it's not starting atm) and ignition ON, as per the MAFs thread, I'm getting;
Red: 0.04V
White: 5.13V
Black: 0.04V
White: 12.3V
The CPS sensor has a little frailing in the wiring right near the connector, I've circled it in red in the attached picture. Could this cause the code to come up for the sensor?
I will clear the codes and see if I can get it started from here
20201011_132632.jpg
.
 

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Black should be 0, and I have 1.04v on red with only ign on. I'd be checking that MAF wire all the way back to the connection and testing it there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Black should be 0, and I have 1.04v on red with only ign on. I'd be checking that MAF wire all the way back to the connection and testing it there.
Ah so it sounds like my MAF sensor is buggered? I will trace it back and measure from the connection. Will replacing the MAF bring the voltages back to normal according to the revs or will I get the same problems as before?
What do you think about the crankshaft sensor?
Really appreciate all your help by the way mate!,
 

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Ah so it sounds like my MAF sensor is buggered? I will trace it back and measure from the connection. Will replacing the MAF bring the voltages back to normal according to the revs or will I get the same problems as before?
What do you think about the crankshaft sensor?
Really appreciate all your help by the way mate!,
It is so hard to say from a distance, but it is certainly looking like you have a MAF issue, but, that should not stop the vehicle from starting. After seeing the MAF wiring I would be checking the wiring for the CAS as well.
You are sure there is no air in the fuel system???????????????
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It is so hard to say from a distance, but it is certainly looking like you have a MAF issue, but, that should not stop the vehicle from starting. After seeing the MAF wiring I would be checking the wiring for the CAS as well.
You are sure there is no air in the fuel system???????????????
Yea the CAS wiring has a little split in it from the pic posted in #8.
As far as air in the system or leaks, how about this line from the fuel filter going to the IP? It looks pretty dodgy to me and like it's leaking cause I sprayed it clean yesterday after I got it started and since then it looks like a build up of diesel leaking out? Maybe I've got a leak from there causing some issue too? I got the fuel filter replaced about a week ago at a "diesel specialist shop" in Warrnambool and I definitely don't think it looked like that before 🙄
20201011_143205.jpg
 

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I would be replacing that hose asap, that is a problem looking for a place to happen, you may have enough length to trim a few mm of but I would be having a good look inside to see how far those splits travel, I would also be investing in the right size hose clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
To be honest, I won't touch that fuel line or hose clamp, I'm going to be on the phone to the place that "repaired" it and getting them to send someone out to properly fix it while I supervise because that is absolute bullsh*t and they even charged me $150 for the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@geeyoutoo so I have added a body to chassis earth as per the Bible in the exact same spot to the cross member. Cleaned up the other earths on the manifold as well as the battery terminals and posts.
Replaced that outlet hose from the fuel filter to the IP as well as a new (and correct sized) clamp, primed and went hard in 2 pumps with no visible diesel leaking at either ends of the hose, so I'm sure that fixes the air in fuel 0705 code?
I have ordered new MAF and Crank sensors and just waiting on them to arrive so I can replace them, double checked the MAF wiring again as per the MAF thread and I'm getting acceptable readings with the engine running (reset the ECU and got it started again), Black was 0v and red went up to around 2.15v, both whites were reading the correct voltages of the battery and ECU signal of 5v.
 

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@geeyoutoo so I have added a body to chassis earth as per the Bible in the exact same spot to the cross member. Cleaned up the other earths on the manifold as well as the battery terminals and posts.
Replaced that outlet hose from the fuel filter to the IP as well as a new (and correct sized) clamp, primed and went hard in 2 pumps with no visible diesel leaking at either ends of the hose, so I'm sure that fixes the air in fuel 0705 code?
I have ordered new MAF and Crank sensors and just waiting on them to arrive so I can replace them, double checked the MAF wiring again as per the MAF thread and I'm getting acceptable readings with the engine running (reset the ECU and got it started again), Black was 0v and red went up to around 2.15v, both whites were reading the correct voltages of the battery and ECU signal of 5v.
Good start mate, steady process of elimination. Thanks for coming back. Keep us informed of how you get on, sadly a lot of people don't do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Good start mate, steady process of elimination. Thanks for coming back. Keep us informed of how you get on, sadly a lot of people don't do this.
Yea will do, appreciate all the help so far so I will be posting until I eliminate the issues 😂 next post will be after installing both the new sensors, hoping to get rid of the hesitating issue once and for all and will order a HPD boost controller to manage my boost!
 

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I just received my new MAF sensor today and installed it, car idled really good, have yet to properly test drive it but I'm waiting on a feeler gauge so I can replace crank sensor with proper gapping.
Do you know the correct mm to gap the crank sensor? Is there a specific way to remove & install?
Thanks
 

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I just received my new MAF sensor today and installed it, car idled really good, have yet to properly test drive it but I'm waiting on a feeler gauge so I can replace crank sensor with proper gapping.
Do you know the correct mm to gap the crank sensor? Is there a specific way to remove & install?
Thanks
All this info is in the workshop manual in post 9 of the DI archives. Yes there is a specific clearance that I can't remember at the moment, but if you used no force to remove it should just bolt back on, that is how I did mine only recently after having the whole front and top off my engine. It is only held in place with one small bolt and a locating cut out, the wires run up behind an insulated steel shield on the front of the engine, wires run up to the connector in front of the IC.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
All this info is in the workshop manual in post 9 of the DI archives. Yes there is a specific clearance that I can't remember at the moment, but if you used no force to remove it should just bolt back on, that is how I did mine only recently after having the whole front and top off my engine. It is only held in place with one small bolt and a locating cut out, the wires run up behind an insulated steel shield on the front of the engine, wires run up to the connector in front of the IC.
Ahh yes downloaded the workshop manual thanks mate!
I'm hoping I can just take the original one off and bolt the new one straight on with no worries but I will double-check clearance gap just in case.
So did you take the front and top off your engine just to get to the sensor? Or you just did the sensor in the process of other engine work?
 
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