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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Ahh yes downloaded the workshop manual thanks mate!
I'm hoping I can just take the original one off and bolt the new one straight on with no worries but I will double-check clearance gap just in case.
So did you take the front and top off your engine just to get to the sensor? Or you just did the sensor in the process of other engine work?
Removed sensor as part of other work, had entire front off engine as well as cylinder head, manifolds, turbo and oil cooler for other work, meaning all wiring had to be disconnected and moved to the side of the engine bay. CAS was simply unbolted and disconnected and stored with harmonic balancer, if it has not undergone any external forces it should just bolt back on, but have your feeler gauges ready just in case.
 

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2001 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU ZD30DDti 5spd Manual
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Discussion Starter #22
So just an update:
I replaced the crank sensor with the new one and ran the wiring up the same way out of the way of the clutch fan and pulleys so as to not fray the wiring like the old one. I also found a pinched vacuum line under the intercooler (not sure which one it was), but I cut off at the pinched area and rerouted it to sit nicely with no more kinks.
I had the 0407 crankshaft code, 1003 egr code and also had a 0703 pump comm line code before commencing the work.
Before and after replacing the sensor, I could not get it to start and the battery was dying so I once again took the terminals off to reset the ECU and charge the battery overnight.

Connected it all back up this morning and went to start her and she fired right up after a little white smoke. She was idling really good for 5 or so minutes before I turned her off and started her again to make sure she would fire up nicely and sure again, she fired right up with no issues at all. Took her for a 15min drive in all gears up to 100km/h and safe to say so far, no issues at all! There was no hesitation or spluttering like before so hopefully I'm onto something here! The check engine light did come on and I suspected it was the EGR again and when I got back from my drive, I checked the codes and it was the EGR 1003 code only, so far so good!! Now to get rid of that damn limp mode around the 80-100km/h mark.
 

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2001 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU ZD30DDti 5spd Manual
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Discussion Starter #23
So once again, left it to sit overnight thinking I'd take it to work in the morning. I was ready to leave at 5am it was around 7°c, I waited for the glow plug light to go off and turned the key off and back to ignition a couple times but the car just cranked over and over for a few seconds without firing up until the battery got tired again.
Only code I had was 0703 pump comm line.
After work, I disconnected the 9pin plug on the back of the IP as well as from the harness and also the glow plug harness connector and gave them all a really good direct spray with contact cleaner and there was a little bit of dust and dirt in them but I cleaned them all right out!
Had battery disconnected while I was doing all the work and when I finally finished (took me about an hour all up), I connected it all back up and went to start her and just cranked a few times and battery got tired again. Checked codes and still had 0703 pump comm line? @geeyoutoo I'm confused now, not sure what to do from here? 🙄 Got battery on charge again, will try to start it after the arvo shift.
 

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2001 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU ZD30DDti 5spd Manual
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Discussion Starter #25
@Phdv61 the EGR cable isn't connected as the EGR is blocked. I will clean them both tho and the MAF.
Can either of those two bring up the 0703 pump comm line code?
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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anything can happen, but I don’t think so. Pump Com Line means an issue with the CAN bus. check the pump connector, and look for damaged cables.
Also, the ÉCU connector must be screwed until you see the orange color from below. otherwise you might have a poor connection.
last, check the grounding(s). a poor grounding generates many errors and prevents your Patrol from starting.
 

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2001 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU ZD30DDti 5spd Manual
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Discussion Starter #27
anything can happen, but I don’t think so. Pump Com Line means an issue with the CAN bus. check the pump connector, and look for damaged cables.
Also, the ÉCU connector must be screwed until you see the orange color from below. otherwise you might have a poor connection.
last, check the grounding(s). a poor grounding generates many errors and prevents your Patrol from starting.
Should I leave the EGR connector unplugged while the EGR is blocked off?
I took the 9pin connector off the back of the IP and disconnected it from the harness and visually inspected it out of the car and gave it a good spray all over and all connection points with contact cleaner then blew it all out with air so I will have to diagnose via the DTC 0703 diagnosing procedure from the book I think!
The ECU connector has been tightened properly with the orange colour visible, I made sure of that when I disconnected it and sprayed all in there a few days ago.
The ground connections on the manifold have all been cleaned and I wire brushed them all nicely and sprayed them with contact cleaner so they should be good. Does the IP connector/harness get it's ground from the manifold grounds there?
 

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from the top of my head, I had to leave mine connected (EGR) to avoid issues with the ÉCU. It is still connected today.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
No worries I'll probably connect mine back up then after spraying it as well as the MAF and taking off the 9pin connector to the IP again and I'll pull apart the heat protector and check all the wires in there
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I followed the DTC diagnosing procedure for the 0703 pump comm code and everything checked out to be okay, I did take the IP connector off and out again and gave it one more good spray all over and checked the wires again and all was good. I made sure to install it correctly and out of the way as well as zip tie it to a bracket to reduce any movement while driving.

Also sprayed the MAF connector and EGR connector and connected that back up since it was unplugged. Although some wires are no good and have been cut/frayed so I need a wiring diagram for the EGR connector!

I also removed the ECU connector and sprayed thoroughly in there and the ECU terminals as well and did it up nice and tight to see the orange (although I did it too tight and the 10mm bolt and plastic bit snapped off somewhere so I need a new plastic casing part which covers all the wires and screws in if anyone knows where I can get one?) 😫

I primed the pump 2 times in which it went hard and it started up first go with only a couple seconds of cranking, I think the pump comm line must be good now 😁 now to test in a couple hours when I have work!
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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if it comes back, you need to check the ECU connector pins and make sure none is bent or damaged. On the IP side, the connector must be secured by its mechanism.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I will check the ECU connector pins if I get the code again and go from there, hopefully I've got that sorted for now! Yea the connector is secured correctly, made sure of that. Thanks mate
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Have not had the code again, only 1003 which is for the EGR. Although it does take a while/few times to crank to get it started overnight, primer goes fully hard in about 3-4 pumps so I'm thinking there may be some air in the system? Does anyone @Phdv61 @geeyoutoo know the best & easiest way to bleed air out of the system? Would it be loosen an Injector a bit and crank then check primer till it gets fully hard on say 1 push?
Thanks!
 

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I suggest you fix your EGR cabling. You never know how the ECU reacts to detected faults.
For the air, you need to check for how long the primer stays firm once you have pressed it. You may have an 'air intake' somewhere. Sometimes it happens from the fuel filter replacement, or loose hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I will need an EGR pin out or wiring diagram before I can fix it if you know where one is or maybe in the manual?
I will check how long it stays firm for tomorrow, the fuel filter was replaced a couple of weeks ago and I have heard about the o-ring that people "overlook" and overtighten causing an air leak so I will check that too! I will also go over all the hose clamps too.
 

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looks fine to me.

Your Patrol is no longer stock. with EGR blocked and 3" exhaust, the MAF at idle therefore increases compared to stock (1.6V to 2V according to Nissan doc) , and even more for higher Revs). If your turbo settings is full stock, no mods, and you still have the VNT solenoid controlled by the ECU, and no REMAP, you certainly experience limp modes.

3" exhaust has less backpressure than the original exhaust, and therefore, you get more air in (hence the MAF increase).

To suppress the limp mode(s)
  • you can get a REMAP
  • you can add a shottky diode (or two) in serie with the MAF signal to decrease its voltage a bit, and stay below the voltage limit. But this results is a decrease across all revs range, and a bit less fuel being injected.
  • you can screw 1/4 turn at a time the limiting screw to decrease a bit the turbo spool-up. This will open the vanes a bit more and limit a bit the boost and quantity of air being pushed by the turbo into admission. You can also put a valves system ( see the relevant posts ) in lieu of the ECU managing the VNT.
  • you can buy a split-second RPM controlled MAF limiter '$200'
  • You can build a MAF limiter yourself (electronics + sw), to only modify the MAF value when it exceeds the known threshold, and only until the RPM goes a bit beyond the value checked by the ECU ( what I did personnaly).

When you press the primer twice, it should stay firm for a while.
 

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I will need an EGR pin out or wiring diagram before I can fix it if you know where one is or maybe in the manual?
I will check how long it stays firm for tomorrow, the fuel filter was replaced a couple of weeks ago and I have heard about the o-ring that people "overlook" and overtighten causing an air leak so I will check that too! I will also go over all the hose clamps too.
G'day, copied from one of my old posts regarding air getting into the fuel line - it can be very challenging getting all the air out of the fuel system after a filter change which is why I installed the ball valve on the outlet of the filter. Before I installed the lift pump, I had a little facet that I would hook up to the ball valve to suck the fuel through and get rid of the air in the system.

A tell tale sign that you still have air in the fuel system is if you are able to push down the priming plunger and it does not become firm after a couple of pushes.

If you succeed in having no air enter the fuel line, this plunger will be firm when the car has been left overnight and you test it in the morning. IMHO if you can get a firm plunger after one pump or so, the vehicle will run well however the IP will be happier if the plunger is firm in the morning indicating that no air is leaking into the IP fuel line.

Easiest way to check if you have air getting into the system is to test with a brake bleed kit which produces a vacuum, you put it on the fuel line going to the IP and create vacuum to no more than 3 or 4 HG, more is not better in this case as you could damage the IP with high HG (which is not necessary), you just want to see if the line holds vacuum.

If that is good, then move onto the outlet of the fuel filter whilst blocking the inlet of the fuel filter and see if that holds vacuum.. etc. Should just be a process of elimination to finding where the air leak is coming from.

Cheers,
Whitie
 

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Discussion Starter #39
@Phdv61 @whitie @geeyoutoo
I managed to finally get some clear 10mm hose to see if I can see any air going to the IP and relate to the ICV% and this is what I found.

**Can't upload videos here at the moment.

Video 1: idling (after 3 days of not starting it);
A couple of little bubbles in the line to IP but then was all just diesel flowing through, watched it for about a minute and no bubbles.
ICV% was at 34-38%.


Video 2: holding revs @ 2000prm correlating to ICV% values;
Still no air that I can visually see but after turning the car off the primer took 2 pumps to become fully firm.
The ICV% values were at 42% @2000rpm then spiked to 57.8% when decelerating then stayed around 35%.

How do these figures sound? Still no error codes just for EGR.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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The ICV% numbers from the Bosch manual (I put a link for it in the DI archives manual section a few years ago) are between 50 and 70% at warm idle, don't take much notice of anything else. The new IP I fitted last year sits at around 53% +- at said warm idle, if your primer is firm at 2 pumps I'd say air is pretty well under control and if your still in the low 40's at warm idle it isn't good news for the pump. Before I replaced mine it would drop to 20' at WOT and the idle was low 40's.
 
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