Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

41 - 52 of 52 Posts

·
Registered
2001 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU ZD30DDti 5spd Manual
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
@geeyoutoo
I think I saw it sit around 43-48% at warm idle when watching ICV%, wide open throttle I was seeing around 36% if I remember correctly then would spike up to 96% on deceleration.

I'm trying to figure out how to log the values with RPM, Throttle & ICV% on ECUTalk but I can't figure out how to do it and to view the log if you can help with that I can send a more accurate spreadsheet with all the values in while I'm driving around the block.
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
48,194 Posts
@geeyoutoo
I think I saw it sit around 43-48% at warm idle when watching ICV%, wide open throttle I was seeing around 36% if I remember correctly then would spike up to 96% on deceleration.

I'm trying to figure out how to log the values with RPM, Throttle & ICV% on ECUTalk but I can't figure out how to do it and to view the log if you can help with that I can send a more accurate spreadsheet with all the values in while I'm driving around the block.
As said, the important number is the warm idle %, just to go back over a few things, the 73 code can happen without there being a pump fault, if the engine doesn't start within a time frame a 73 can happen, had that happen to me years ago because of air in the system, that same air finally lead to the demise of my pump, diesel is what lubricates the pump as it works, air can kill them stone dead.

The method I use to scavenge air after all possible leaks have been fixed (I have a lift pump, but the same thing works using the primer),
1. loosen the banjo bolt for the IP fuel inlet to pump.
2. pump primer quickly until fuel leaks from the banjo connection.
3, tighten banjo.
4. loosen the return line banjo and pump primer quickly until fuel leaks from banjo.
5. tighten banjo.
 

·
Registered
2001 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU ZD30DDti 5spd Manual
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
@geeyoutoo
So my warm idle ICV% is a little low, a lift pump should help I reckon but does that mean my IP is on the way out maybe? I will check ICV% readings after I have done the above method and will report back, hopefully all goes well!

Any help in creating a log file in ECUTalk?

Do you happen to know the torque specs on the banjo bolts?
Thanks mate
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
48,194 Posts
@geeyoutoo
So my warm idle ICV% is a little low, a lift pump should help I reckon but does that mean my IP is on the way out maybe? I will check ICV% readings after I have done the above method and will report back, hopefully all goes well!

Any help in creating a log file in ECUTalk?

Do you happen to know the torque specs on the banjo bolts?
Thanks mate
A lift pump will raise ICV% up to 5% at warm idle, less on a new pump. What happens is there is an inbuilt 'lift' pump in the back of the IP, but it needs to suck fuel several metre to get it to the pump, any leak along that several metres can suck air, a lift pump kept mine going for a long time and it has other benefits as well.

I have done the log file thing many years ago while researching various things, connected ECUTalk to laptop via USB cable (mine is an old ECITalk so mine uses the printer style cable) the hardest part from memory was setting up the 'port' on the laptop for it to read. I did have the instructions somewhere, will see if I can locate it, but, I'm not sure it is going to prove anything, as said warm idle numbers are the important ones for the IP, not upper and lower limits while running.
 

·
Registered
2001 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU ZD30DDti 5spd Manual
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
@geeyoutoo
No worries, thanks mate! I think my hand primer is letting in a small amount of air at the moment I can kind of hear a slight leak, looking at replacing it asap and hopefully will see an improvement with ICV% warm idle and then will look at a lift pump install!

I have my port all set up just can't read the log file (well I can) but there are no input values that mean anything, will see if I can upload it at some stage.

Do you happen to know what this is? I'm guessing it's a pump of some sort? Seems to be connected to the fuel lines and has an electrical plug, it's located to the left (driver's side) of the transmission, bolted to the chassis.
20201118_105149.jpg
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
48,194 Posts
Make sure the seal directly under the fuel filter housing thread is in place, this is easily lost when changing fuel filters and can cause air to enter the system.

That's your transfer pump for the subtank.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
2,707 Posts
No worries, thanks mate! I think my hand primer is letting in a small amount of air at the moment I can kind of hear a slight leak, looking at replacing it asap and hopefully will see an improvement with ICV% warm idle and then will look at a lift pump install!
Do yourself a favor and sort out the air leak first, my plunger is rock hard even after a week of sitting in the garage and it starts straight away.

I recently had an air leak which I traced to the spill valve mod I did many years ago (to stop pressure going to the spill line - you will have to do this also if you install a lift pump), result was lower ICV figures but I picked it up because the engine was harder to start than usual.

Easiest way to find out where the air leaks are is by using a brake bleed kit which produces a vacuum per my other post, if all is well, the fuel line from outlet of the filter to the IP should be able to hold 3 or 4HG of vacuum, if that is good, try holding vacuum from the outlet of the fuel filter back to the tank, if that does not hold vacuum, plug the inlet of the fuel filter and try again etc..

Cheers,
Whitie
 

·
Registered
2001 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU ZD30DDti 5spd Manual
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
@whitie
Cheers mate I'll be buying one of those tomorrow, I need to bleed to brakes anyway so killing 2 birds with 1 stone 😂
I'll post back tomorrow after replacing glow plugs and installing a timer and checking the vacuum with the brake bleed kit, thanks for your help!
 

·
Registered
NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
Joined
·
877 Posts
If I remember well, you have to click a second time in the little box in front of the sensor you want to record.
Once, the tick becomes black, meaning 'gauge display' and twice, it becomes grey meaning 'recording'.
 

·
Registered
2001 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU ZD30DDti 5spd Manual
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
@geeyoutoo @whitie @Phdv61
Just an update:

I ordered a set of Bosch metal tip glow plugs and installed them all which went well, making sure to clean any oil or anything that was on the cam cover, checked the seals and they were all fine too, cleaned and wire brushed the rail too so it was nice and shiny and made sure it's not earthing out anywhere on the cover! Contact cleaned the connector and measured voltage to it (12.3V with ignition on) so it's getting power.
Also installed the PowerTrain Glow Plug Timer mod which came up a treat, weather is warmer now so only need a few seconds of glow/afterglow and my starting issues are all under control and it fires right up everytime! 😁

I ordered a replacement primer pump with a bleed screw and that came with a new seal that sits around the thread and installed that too, the old one was definitely leaking air from the diaphram inside because I could hear it when I took it off to replace it, I pumped it while blocking the fuel inlet side and was a very slight air leak I could hear so that was a problem.
With the new one in its now starting perfectly as well as staying firm overnight! No more air issues for me 😁 am yet to corelate the ICV% values with the new one once all the air has self bled from the system and I can create a log on ECUTalk.

Still not sure how to open the log file?
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
48,194 Posts
@geeyoutoo @whitie @Phdv61
Just an update:

I ordered a set of Bosch metal tip glow plugs and installed them all which went well, making sure to clean any oil or anything that was on the cam cover, checked the seals and they were all fine too, cleaned and wire brushed the rail too so it was nice and shiny and made sure it's not earthing out anywhere on the cover! Contact cleaned the connector and measured voltage to it (12.3V with ignition on) so it's getting power.
Also installed the PowerTrain Glow Plug Timer mod which came up a treat, weather is warmer now so only need a few seconds of glow/afterglow and my starting issues are all under control and it fires right up everytime! 😁

I ordered a replacement primer pump with a bleed screw and that came with a new seal that sits around the thread and installed that too, the old one was definitely leaking air from the diaphram inside because I could hear it when I took it off to replace it, I pumped it while blocking the fuel inlet side and was a very slight air leak I could hear so that was a problem.
With the new one in its now starting perfectly as well as staying firm overnight! No more air issues for me 😁 am yet to corelate the ICV% values with the new one once all the air has self bled from the system and I can create a log on ECUTalk.

Still not sure how to open the log file?
Cool, thanks for feedback, I have my GP timer set at 20 seconds. By following what I wrote in post #42 you should be able to remove over 95% of air from the system, then start and drive, should only took a short while to purge and for ICV% to return to normality.
 

·
Registered
2001 Nissan Patrol Y61 GU ZD30DDti 5spd Manual
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
@geeyoutoo @whitie @Phdv61
So just to revive the thread back again, my original "hesitation" issue was the fuel cut from the ECU due to the MAF voltages being too high.

I have fitted a HPD boost controller just after I did the glow plugs and had it set to around 18 psi, it would occasionally hit 20 psi, I had a beep set on my gauge for an overboost warning but she drove fine. I had no issues since doing the work on it, even took it for a 4hr trip one weekend up and down windy roads etc and all was great, EGTs were good barely reached 400°c.

The other day on a 50 minute drive to town, it started to hesitate just a couple of times and slightly, I was quite annoyed because it was very unexpected. I immediately pulled over and luckily had some tools in the car and I turned down the boost just a bit (16 psi) to try and avoid hitting the fuel cut. I still managed to get to town and bought some MAF cleaner to give it a good clean when I got home. On the drive home I only could manage to get to 80kph, I don't think it hit fuel cut but it was constantly stuck in a limp mode.

When I got home I took the MAF sensor out and gave it a good spray to clean it, I also replaced all the vacuum hoses for the boost/turbo lines as some of them were old and frail from rubbing etc and made sure they were all on tight and zip tied, I also double checked the boost controller was set right and I am hitting 16 psi. Took it for a drive and it was behaving nicely didn't hesitate/ hit fuel cut but I'm wondering what the best option is to remove fuel cut/limp mode?

I know they don't make the jaycar voltage modifier anymore and I'm not too sure about adding a diode/resistor in the MAF wiring, I have also read about the turbosmart FCD-2 as an option? I also know HPD make an upgraded MAF housing which apparently increases airflow by 30% and eliminates limp mode but I am a bit skeptical about spending $250 right now unless I know it's going to fix the problem, anyone have any ideas/solutions?

Thanks!
 
41 - 52 of 52 Posts
Top