Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

1 - 20 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So after purchasing a 1988 GQ with a TD42 some time ago, ive finally bitten the bullet and started the conversion into my GU on Friday.



The first step was to remove ZD30 from the GU. This took more time than expected due to all the wiring, hoses and ancillaries that are attached to the engine. By Friday afternoon we had the engine out ready for the engine bay to be cleaned.





Yesterday we rolled the GU out and gave the engine bay a clean to reveal the engine mounts that had to be removed. The removal of the mounts ate up alot of time as the welds are fairly thick. After 4 hours we had the mounts out and dressed up. I have to touch up some of the grinder cuts with the welder as they went a bit deep.







The GQ accelerator pedal has been hung replacing the ZD30 fly by wire pedal and throttle cable installed through the firewall. The pedal had to be bent about an inch as it did not line up at first with the hole in the firewall.



So tomorrow im hoping to get the TD42 in and mocked up ready for the welder to tack the mounts in so we can remove the engine and have them welded in for good.

After that its onto the plumbing and fuel and wiring.

I have removed the ZD30 coolant temp sender and glow plug temp sender to install into the TD42.





I am going to use the ZD30 cooling system and plumb from the heater hose to the header tank like others have done.

Hopefully this post will help others who want to do the same like Bexi's has helped me.

I would also like to thank A.J. and AKO89 for there posts.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
So today we managed to finally sit the TD42 down into the engine bay. In order to prep the chassis for the new weld in mounts we had to remove the steering coloumn from the steering box which gave us better access to top of the rail on the drivers side.



 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #6


After sitting the engine in we aligned the gearbox and engine and then bolted it up to help locate where the mounts will precisely sit on the chassis.

This took some time and by also removing the fuel filter and loom we had more room to see what was going on.

Hopefully by the end of this week the mounts will be welded and then onto the fluids and wiring.

Heres a pic of the pedal after it was bent to line up with the hole in thr firewall. We simply bent it up in a vice, no heat required.





 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
How many ks on the td42 your putting in?<br/>

360000km i think from memory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
I've just helped a mate with bits doing the same conversion. What really helped was leaving both manifolds off and no clutch or flywheel or sandwich plate.
All this makes heaps more room to line up and see what's going on
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I've just helped a mate with bits doing the same conversion. What really helped was leaving both manifolds off and no clutch or flywheel or sandwich plate.
All this makes heaps more room to line up and see what's going on
yeah i left out the sandwich plate and clutch which made it real simple to align everything.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
So today we tacked the mounts in, removed the engine and then welded them in.

With everything ready to go it only took the welder 30min, but it took a while to remove the engine again to allow him to weld the vertical side of the mount on the chassis.











So looks like it's all on track to have her going by the weekend. I will replace the rear main seal while the engines out and also have a exhaust stud to replace.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
2,587 Posts
if your going to replace 1 stud you mas aswell replace them all, they are well known for braking off and its the 1s at the back they always break and are a pain in the arse to get out with the motor in, i did the full set on mine while it was out costs me 30 bucks from exhaust shop
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
if your going to replace 1 stud you mas aswell replace them all, they are well known for braking off and its the 1s at the back they always break and are a pain in the arse to get out with the motor in, i did the full set on mine while it was out costs me 30 bucks from exhaust shop
haha i was thinking that today while i had the manifold off. ohwell...
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So today we replaced the two temp senders in the thermostat housing of the TD42 with the temp senders from the ZD30.



We also replaced the rear main seal and an exhaust stud.

We then assembled the sandwich plate, flywheel and clutch to the rear of the TD42.



I also sourced a oil pressure switch off a ZD30 as I didn't remove mine before selling it. I have been told to use the oil pressure switch from below the turbo on the ZD30, which i believe is the low pressure sender, and replace the TD42 oil pressure sender with it. This will allow me to use the factory wiring for oil pressure but i will have to either extend the wiring or remove it from the loom to be shortened as the sender will now be located on the drivers side of the block.

This also changes the TD42 oil pressure sender which is two wire to the ZD30 oil pressure sender (switch) which is single wire.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
2,587 Posts
the 2 wire one on the td42 if its from a gq is for a gauge anyway and wont work properly with a light, if at all, i used the sensor with the black plug and just left wiring as is, to be honest i didnt even see another sensor for oil unless it was on the newer ones
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #17




One week on the TD42 sits in place ready to connect everything up again. The gearbox is bolted together, starter motor is in place but requires a little bit of modifying to suit the TD42 starter motor positive stud.

As the ZD30 had direct injection the fuel return hose is needed to be lengthened.

The power steering hose requires a new length of hose from the reservoir to the aluminium pipe below near the steering box.

The breather from the alternator needed to be lengthened aswell.

So tomorrow its onto the starter motor and then continue working on the water hoses and the airbox setup.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
After pumping the **** out of the fuel filter and letting the glow plugs warm up she fired first go after sitting on an engine stand for 12 months.

Today was the day many small jobs. Plumbing of water heater. Alternator wiring and vac hoses. Tightening of all hose clamps and wiring.

I used the ZD30 starter motor cable from the positive side of the battery and drilled the lug and cut it down to suit.

The injection pump is powered from the wiper motor circuit which gets power when the ignition is turned on.

I used all the senders from the ZD30 so the wiring plugged straight in.

Now all thats left is tidying up and probably replacing the manifold with a Radius Fab high mount as my heater hoses are to close to the dump pipe.

Watch "GU Patrol TD42 converson" on YouTube
GU Patrol TD42 converson: https://youtu.be/8dgxXjZeyTA
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
What I've used so far -
1988 GQ TD42 engine
GU TD42 weld in engine mounts
GU TD42 4 bolt engine mounts
GQ accelerator pedal and cable
GQ bell housing, clutch slave, fork and thrust bearing
GQ clutch and flywheel
Both ZD30 temp senders and oil pressure sender from beneath turbo.
All wiring from ZD30 no splicing of loom
ZD30 radiator with TD42 hoses
GQ power steering hose from TD42 pump to GU steering box
Small modification on ZD30 starter motor lug
GU TD42 heater hoses
2m of 5/8 heater hose and hose clamps
2 × 5/8 double ended barbs
1 × 5/8 barb 'T'
2m Vac hose for turbo lines and alternator lines
0.5m of fuel/oil hose for fuel return
0.5m of oil hose for power steering pump to oil cooler line
Water line for turbo
 
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Top