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Discussion Starter #1
The oil light sometimes stays on and the there is plenty of oil in the sump (oil level is correct on the dip stick).Sometime when you turn it off and restart the engine it will go out and then next time it will stay on.
HELP,it's a 2005 GU IV 3liter auto.
 

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From memory there is a Nissan bulletin with a fix for this

I believe it is a electrical problem rather than a mechanical one

Regards Don
 

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builder not a buyer!
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pretty sure its the resistor on the oil pressure switch, correct me if im wrong?

i did hear something that it is covered under a nissan warranty?

cheers
 

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Grenade Master
GU4 05
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The oil light sometimes stays on and the there is plenty of oil in the sump (oil level is correct on the dip stick).Sometime when you turn it off and restart the engine it will go out and then next time it will stay on.
HELP,it's a 2005 GU IV 3liter auto.
This has been covered before, use the "search" function to find out if your vehicle is under the affected units. The problem is more than likely one of the oil pressure senders failing. Very easy to diagnose which one as both must break earth/ground for the light to go out(that is once the sufficient oil pressure is reached). Since both senders have only one connection/terminal all you need is a multimeter with "continuity buzzer" to check which one doesn't work as required. The resistor (it's pricey) is mounted on the driver side behind the panel next to throttle pedal. To change either sender you'll need 27 mm deep socket and some wobbly extensions to reach the one above starter motor. Apparently advice is to change both senders and resistor if your vehicle falls in to affected chassis number range. You aren't going to like the cost $$$$$ so better yet fit an oil gauge instead of the patsy light. I had the same problem some months ago, while diagnosing it was relatively easy, changing the senders was a bit challenging particularly the one above starter motor (high pressure unit) while the low pressure unit ( under the turbo) was a breeze. Beware that the senders are not the same despite looking identical one has the green band/circle on the body (RHS) and one none (LHS)
Cheers
 

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builder not a buyer!
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So essentially what did you do to fix the problem mate? Change the sender units? New or second hand?

Thanks mate
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks that gives me somewhere to start,also if i fit a pressure cauge where should i tap it in and pick up from ?
 

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Best way is do it properly and no more rooting around.
Both oil pressure switches ($18 and $22) and the resistor in the kick panel ($125).
$165 (plus some postage) and an hours work and jobs right.
 

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Best way is do it properly and no more rooting around.
Both oil pressure switches ($18 and $22) and the resistor in the kick panel ($125).
$165 (plus some postage) and an hours work and jobs right.

X1.................. thats what I would do too
 

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builder not a buyer!
nissan
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2,702 Posts
Best way is do it properly and no more rooting around.
Both oil pressure switches ($18 and $22) and the resistor in the kick panel ($125).
$165 (plus some postage) and an hours work and jobs right.
G'day mate I popped onto my Nissan dealer the other week and Explained the problem to them to which the told me it would be covered under extended warranty?

If I were to get the parts off you (if warranty doesn't cover it) do you supply instructions? Will the light work as normal after the mods have been done?

Thanks mate
 

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sounds like the case of it being the sensors and resistor. however it never hurts to check the oil pressure by means of a guage.. ive been bitten fixing a few having the screws come out the back of the oil pump housing in the timing case and actually having little oil pressure but still sounding fine.
 
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