MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
Remember, to tighten the side play in the MK diff you need to add shims rather than take them away , reason for that is that it spaces the 2 sides of wheel bearings apart, and since it all acts as 1 system that gives less end play.That whole deal where it pushes through the centre portion to the oposite bearing had me very confused and swearing and nearly going to drink when I replaced my centre portion last weekend. I have never before had both shafts out at the same time. When I did the wheel bearings I had one out at a time and put it back and checked the end play before going to the other side.
So when I got to put my sideshafts back this time, I found I had 5mm end play and no way take more shims out. Then made the mistake of taking it out before I went over to the other side to test that one which gave me the same result. Thought I had somehow ended up with the wrong centre portion. As far as I know the H260 also came in a full floater version, and I thought Murphy was messing with me.
Only later I realised the two sideshafts have to both be in so as to transfer the load to the oposite bearing.
I have this H260 under my Hardbody specifically because it has 4.88 gears. So heaven knows what I am going to do if I mess this diff up. Not many right drop 4.88 axles out there to choose from.
I will be trying to rescue my old centre portion which I believe and hope its nothing more than pinion bearings.
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