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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That whole deal where it pushes through the centre portion to the oposite bearing had me very confused and swearing and nearly going to drink when I replaced my centre portion last weekend. I have never before had both shafts out at the same time. When I did the wheel bearings I had one out at a time and put it back and checked the end play before going to the other side.

So when I got to put my sideshafts back this time, I found I had 5mm end play and no way take more shims out. Then made the mistake of taking it out before I went over to the other side to test that one which gave me the same result. Thought I had somehow ended up with the wrong centre portion. As far as I know the H260 also came in a full floater version, and I thought Murphy was messing with me.
Only later I realised the two sideshafts have to both be in so as to transfer the load to the oposite bearing.

I have this H260 under my Hardbody specifically because it has 4.88 gears. So heaven knows what I am going to do if I mess this diff up. Not many right drop 4.88 axles out there to choose from.
I will be trying to rescue my old centre portion which I believe and hope its nothing more than pinion bearings.

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Remember, to tighten the side play in the MK diff you need to add shims rather than take them away , reason for that is that it spaces the 2 sides of wheel bearings apart, and since it all acts as 1 system that gives less end play.


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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
If you have a box trailer you can nip down and grab my press. I don't see myself needing it in the next month or so.
Alternatively, you can just jack your Dad's Patrol up and bring a chassis rail down onto it..
Yeah the chassis rail was the other alternative I was thinking of, either that, or dad suggested using some bolts with nuts through the ring gear holes to bring the 2 sides together, not sure what the best option is. How easy will it be to get the press into the trailer? Maybe I should just bring both LSD’s over to yours and use it there if I end up wanting the press?


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Remember, to tighten the side play in the MK diff you need to add shims rather than take them away , reason for that is that it spaces the 2 sides of wheel bearings apart, and since it all acts as 1 system that gives less end play.


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I'm a noob with this stuff. I scored this center portion and slapped it in over the weekend to replace the old one that has a sloppy pinion. I would not venture into farting about with it much more than that, but yes I understand the concept of more shims making it tighter.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
I'm a noob with this stuff. I scored this center portion and slapped it in over the weekend to replace the old one that has a sloppy pinion. I would not venture into farting about with it much more than that, but yes I understand the concept of more shims making it tighter.
Don’t worry, I’ve never done this before either, doing it from necessity and learning as I go

I never thought I could do this, but I never thought I couldn’t either.
I can’t remember who’s quote that is haha


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How easy will it be to get the press into the trailer? Maybe I should just bring both LSD’s over to yours and use it there if I end up wanting the press?
The press is on castors so easy to wheel it to the front of the shed and just tip it over. The adjustable section where you place the items to be pressed is easy to remove. It just sits on 2 big pins.
I'm sure I could put it into my own trailer by myself.
You might find it better to have the press there if you need to dismantle it multiple times to get the friction right.

Looks similar to this:

Machine Auto part Metal Balance
 

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Ethan, you mentioned earlier you had a h233 with a busted lsd. Is it easier to install the 233?? Because I have a complete h233 diff with a busted lsd. We might be able to make one good one out of the 2. Mine has broken a few shims & friction plates & munted spider gears. I also have a 12 ton hydrolic press.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Ethan, you mentioned earlier you had a h233 with a busted lsd. Is it easier to install the 233?? Because I have a complete h233 diff with a busted lsd. We might be able to make one good one out of the 2. Mine has broken a few shims & friction plates & munted spider gears. I also have a 12 ton hydrolic press.....
I would like to use the 233 simply for the extra clearance, but I almost feel like I’ve invested too much into the 260 now and should use it. Also the better LSD is a good bonus, but I’d still be willing to have a go at repairing one sometime just for fun?

Edit: So I’ll use the H260 because I know I won’t break it, it has an excellent lsd, and I’ve put effort in this far I may as well see it through,
But if it comes to the point where the type of driving I’m doing is being affected by the physically bigger size of the diff, I’ll see what I can do about the 233. For reference the type of driving I want to do is the absolute opposite of mud bogging (hate that), slow technical “crawling” on rocks and driving that requires skill, rather than a heavy right boot.

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
So this is just the first method I’m trying of compressing the LSD, 4 bolts (with washers) and just tighten them down evenly. Seems to be working quite well with not too much pressure on the bolts by the feel of it using the spanners so I think I’ll just do this instead of using the press. I understand that using a press is the ideal way, but I’m going to try to get these done and back in the carriers tonight so this’ll work.



Edit: This was dads idea by the way, so if there’s any complaints direct them that way

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Late night, as I said, but I’m going to continue on. This is where I’m at now, the bearing caps aren’t torqued yet though:


I haven’t managed to put the MK lsd back together yet, as the bolts I used to clamp the GU lsd don’t fit through the slightly smaller holes in the MK one. Next step now is to torque the bearing caps, and put the centre into the housing for the third time (once when I last had the diff out to make sure it fit, but still had the 35 spline Ute lsd in it then, once before I realised I need the annoying centre bit, and now), tighten all the bolts around the outside up, and put my new drum shoes onto the brakes. I don’t think I’ll put the axles back in tonight, I’ll be too tired by then, but good progress will be made.


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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Backlash feels good, don’t have a dial gauge but I know roughly what it’s supposed to feel like, barely moving enough to notice by eye but can definitely feel it through the pinion. Gear mesh looks decent, I don’t have oil paint with me so just smeared a little old black diesel oil on the teeth instead. Maybe a little off, I’ll put a photo here and postpone the reinstall until tomorrow when people are awake to respond and tell me if it’s ok or not.

Is that an acceptable gear mesh?
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If the pinion didn't move and the backlash is correct, the gear tooth contact pattern should be ok.
Dial gauge with magnetic stand is pretty cheap and a handy tool to have.

Were you able to find a way to check the friction of the LSD?
 

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Backlash feels good, don’t have a dial gauge but I know roughly what it’s supposed to feel like, barely moving enough to notice by eye but can definitely feel it through the pinion. Gear mesh looks decent, I don’t have oil paint with me so just smeared a little old black diesel oil on the teeth instead. Maybe a little off, I’ll put a photo here and postpone the reinstall until tomorrow when people are awake to respond and tell me if it’s ok or not.

Is that an acceptable gear mesh?
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What you can do is clean the teeth up and using a black marker pen cover several teeth on both sides around the gear then rotate several times and look at the contact pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
If the pinion didn't move and the backlash is correct, the gear tooth contact pattern should be ok.
Dial gauge with magnetic stand is pretty cheap and a handy tool to have.

Were you able to find a way to check the friction of the LSD?
Ok cool, I think I’ll roll with it, as you say, pinion didn’t move and backlash feels good.
I wasn’t able to check the friction of the LSD’s, but we used a vernier calliper to see which of the clutch packs was thicker, and unsurprisingly the 20 years newer lsd is in better condition with the clutch packs still being thicker overall.


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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Also progress:

And the all important “can’t see through to the other side”:

Don’t mind the sawdust all over the floor, I might’ve spilled most of the diff oil when the housing fell on the drain pan


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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Also got the new brake shoes on one drum brake, still got to do the other:



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Also progress:

And the all important “can’t see through to the other side”:

Don’t mind the sawdust all over the floor, I might’ve spilled most of the diff oil when the housing fell on the drain pan


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Was it heavier than you expected?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Was it heavier than you expected?
Don’t worry, I’ve lifted both H260’s more times than I can remember now, I know how unbelievably heavy they are. Hopefully weight=mass=strength in this equation…

Although if the question is whether it’s heavier than the MK one I don’t think so, not noticeably anyway. I think they’re just heavy enough that a couple kg’s difference (which I doubt there is that much but happy to be corrected) doesn’t feel like much.

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Don’t worry, I’ve lifted both H260’s more times than I can remember now, I know how unbelievably heavy they are. Hopefully weight=mass=strength in this equation…

Although if the question is whether it’s heavier than the MK one I don’t think so, not noticeably anyway. I think they’re just heavy enough that a couple kg’s difference (which I doubt there is that much but happy to be corrected) doesn’t feel like much.

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The question was because I misread your post. I was thinking the diff centre dropped onto the oil pan when you actually wrote ‘housing’..
 
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