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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
New brake shoes both sides, and the whole thing is back together minus oil. Since I was putting it back together I got a chance to test the bearing movement side to side to see how good my shim choice was last time, and I’m impressed how good I got it, just barely moves back and forth, with no tension between the bearings. Now I’ve just got to somehow rattle gun off the big pinion flange and replace it with the smaller one for my tailshaft.



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If the H233 came in 4.88 and right drop, I would swop out. H260 is a big heavy lump. I also believe the H260 is not really that much stronger than the H233 as it uses the same pinion (maybe I am wrong).
One of the mods I would love to tackle is doing a disk brake conversion, but my coil conversion has to happen first. Running dual TC's and getting 4,2:1 low range is stressing my leaf packs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Got some straight 140 weight oil, as I’ve read here that one of the reasons the Nissan LSD’s can wear out quicker is because the 85-140 weight is too thin when it’s at 85, and that straight 140 is better for the clutch packs. Whether that’s true or not, I don’t know, but I like to think that whoever said it (can’t remember who it was) knew what they were talking about.



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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I think as they get older a heavier version doesn't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Didn’t notice this before, but it even says it on the back:

Obviously take the oil companies recommends with a grain of salt, they are just trying to sell products, but it’s interesting that Penrite would mention specifically Nissan 4wds.


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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Penrite have done that for at least 10 years.
Ahh ok, I just thought it was interesting, that's all.

On another note, the car's sitting on it's own suspension again:
Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Vehicle

And now with a 4.375 geared H260 out of a GU in the rear :)

Finally I can use 4wd again, been missing that even though I haven't had a chance to go anywhere in the time since I installed the front locker.
Still need to bleed the brakes and maybe put slightly more oil in it, I only put 1 of the 2.5 litre bottles in so far, so tomorrow it's first drive with the gears :dance:
Also what is the purpose of the banana dance smiley haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
The brakes are bled, and the diff oil is topped up, so it’s so close to time to take it for a drive.

The diff took about 3.5 litres of oil, I backed it up onto ramps like this because of my extended shackles rotating the diff, and just to eek that little bit more oil into it:


I think before I go anywhere I’m going to just nip up the drivers front wheel bearing as there’s just the slightest bit of movement in it, and I need to pull the hub cover off anyway to install the axle circlip that I forgot when I did the Ute front diff install.


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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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My H260 tops out at 3.7L.
Have changed title to better reflect task and placing in to the DI (and general) Archives, Post 13
Also sticky in this section.
 

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I have done a tube seal delete on my semi floater H260 to lube the wheel bearings with diff oil instead of grease. I add a bit more oil than normal to make sure the tubes are flooded and can overcome the ridge on the end of the tube for the original seal. Mine works out to be exactly 5 litres of oil on a fill. I fill the last 1.5 litres through the breather, but its is a pain as the housing builds up pressure and stops the oil flow. So I have to constantly relieve the air pressure build up.

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I have done a tube seal delete on my semi floater H260 to lube the wheel bearings with diff oil instead of grease. I add a bit more oil than normal to make sure the tubes are flooded and can overcome the ridge on the end of the tube for the original seal. Mine works out to be exactly 5 litres of oil on a fill. I fill the last 1.5 litres through the breather, but its is a pain as the housing builds up pressure and stops the oil flow. So I have to constantly relieve the air pressure build up.

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I would do that to run the bearings in oil, but my outer axle seals aren't good and I can't find new ones, so the oil would just spew out of there, and water would get in.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I would do that to run the bearings in oil, but my outer axle seals aren't good and I can't find new ones, so the oil would just spew out of there, and water would get in.
Sorry, I would not consider overfilling a diff to achieve this, to much reliance on the outer seals when pressure rises as it would.
 

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Sorry, I would not consider overfilling a diff to achieve this, to much reliance on the outer seals when pressure rises as it would.
You can only have pressure issues if your breather is blocked. My five breathers all combine and come out behind my firewall just below bonnet level. Very simple little exercise to blow into them at service time and check for blockages.

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You can only have pressure issues if your breather is blocked. My five breathers all combine and come out behind my firewall just below bonnet level. Very simple little exercise to blow into them at service time and check for blockages.

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In you post you said you constantly need to relieve pressure, with a high oil level in the diff plus heat this doesn't surprise me plus I have difficulty in seeing any distinct benefit. Please enlighten me if I have missed something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Not the thread for this discussion, so I'll post a link in my build thread to a video about it. I agree to both sides of the equation. Ross what he was saying is that as he's filling it up (through the breather because it's higher than the fill plug) there's nowhere for air to escape, so has to stop filling to let the pressure balance back out. There's arguments both ways, and like I said, I'll put the link to a vid in the build thread.
 

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In you post you said you constantly need to relieve pressure, with a high oil level in the diff plus heat this doesn't surprise me plus I have difficulty in seeing any distinct benefit. Please enlighten me if I have missed something.
My post mentions relieving pressure while filling the diff. Once done the breather pipe system is connected and all returns to normal.
Advatage for me is that darn little tube end seal does not go and dump diff oil into the wheel bearing compartment anymore. I may have a slight shaft problem or something, but my first two six month services on the car after my build, I had diff oil in one of the bearings. On my hardbody diff I had also done that delete and it worked great. Did the delete on the H260 and no problems so far since 2018. I would nearly venture to say that my bearings seem to be in better condition running in diff oil than wheel bearing grease.

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No need, conversation finished. I've got 410,000k on mine the majority of those quite tough, just good oil.
 
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