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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have found my Patrol getting difficult to start, gradually getting worse over the last 3 weeks. She cranks over fine but takes up to 10 cranks before she fires up, then it runs fine. Once it is warmed up it starts ok but still takes about 3 cranks. This morning I couldn't get it going at all. I checked the primer bulb and it was solid. I ended up calling out the RACV. They checked things over and then hooked up an OBD reader. No faults, good RPM. He could feel the primer bulb pulsing so said no problems with fuel, battery is fine, he decided that it must be glow plug related. Then he turned it over once more and it fired. I then took it to my auto electrician who tested all the circuit and each individual glow plug but could not find a problem. The Patrol was starting fine by then as it was almost at operating temp.

It has developed a very brief buzzing noise when I accelerate, passing through the 2000rpm range, this goes when it warms up. I also have an oil leak from the turbo. My mechanic reckons the noise is turbo related and referred me to AXT turbos. They say the noise will be a warped manifold, without seeing or hearing the car, and have quoted about $1000 to machine the manifold and replace an oil seal in the turbo, and if a replacement turbo is required about $3000.

Once it is started it drives perfectly. Boost is fine on the turbo. No overheating. Slightly poor economy, between 18.5 and 20 when towing my 1.8T caravan, 15 about town and 13 cruising.

Where to from here.
 

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Finding mine takes a while to crank over too lately. It's intermittent but generally when the engine is cool. Yesterday I noticed a decent puff of smoke when it did finally kick over.
It's a 3.0crd with nearly 160k on the clock and I haven't touched the glow plugs in the 2 years I've owned. Could they cause the problem?

Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk 2
 

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Nissan Patrol 2008 3L CRD
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Oh k guys so i have come into a few of these problems recently myself. 08 CRD with 208 xxxkms
Took it to the Mechanic Plugged the computer in It came up with a LOW FUEL PRESSURE in rail fault but the engine light does not come up for some reason, so maybe take your cars to a Mechanic and get it scanned..
That Problem got Fixed all good but after 3 days wouldn't start again pulled the Glowies out turned the accessories on, with my hand on a glow plug NO HEAT all circuitry was fine. Slapped New Glowies in No problems starting COLD but when at operating temp wouldn't start??
Changed the Battery coz it was a old, brand spanker in, now starts after 5-10 Cranks Still not happy, I took my Return Lines off the Injectors pulled the crank Sensor out (When the car was warm) Cranked her over and i had diesel coming out the top of 1,2,3 Injector, Hence the reason for struggling to start I'm in the process of changing them now and see how i go...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have changed my fuel filter and air filter, not perfect yet but starts a lot quicker. I have a few other issues. Took it to MTQ for dx and they found a badly warped outlet manifold, machined 3mm off, leaking intercooler and turbo getting sloppy and leaking oil. Should get it back today with new turbo, upgraded pipe and fin intercooler and straight manifold. Out of pocket about $4200. I was not happy about the turbo, the mechanic there reckons they start going between 160000 and 180000 and very few will give 200000. Hopefully it will be like new, or better when I get it back today. I asked about a catch-can and was told they are illegal and not needed but would fit if I really want it.
 

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First time I have ever heard that a catch can was illegal learn something new. I have rung a couple mechanical work shops that have a lot to do with 4wds they have said that's the first time they have heard catch cans were illegal that's here in QLD I am not sure any where else Cheer's
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I have changed my fuel filter and air filter, not perfect yet but starts a lot quicker. I have a few other issues. Took it to MTQ for dx and they found a badly warped outlet manifold, machined 3mm off, leaking intercooler and turbo getting sloppy and leaking oil. Should get it back today with new turbo, upgraded pipe and fin intercooler and straight manifold. Out of pocket about $4200. I was not happy about the turbo, the mechanic there reckons they start going between 160000 and 180000 and very few will give 200000. Hopefully it will be like new, or better when I get it back today. I asked about a catch-can and was told they are illegal and not needed but would fit if I really want it.
Did they give any indication as to why the turbo's don't last in their estimation, mines got 260,000 on it and still goes like 40 bastards, Scrawni's had over 300,000 from memory, so I'm a little skeptical of their claim in that respect, unless the aircooled had a lower life expectancy than the original water cooled, just to add I've never seen a turbo timer as a great saviour either never thought they were relevant to a normal vehicle that wasn't thrashed hard and stopped quickly.

I've never heard a whisper about the catch cans, that's news to me as well, would be interested if someone could confirm it in the ADR's but I haven't seen it, maybe that's in the category of the great trailer shackle myth.
 

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Nissan Patrol 2008 3L CRD
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Possible injector Leakage.

I have found my Patrol getting difficult to start, gradually getting worse over the last 3 weeks. She cranks over fine but takes up to 10 cranks before she fires up, then it runs fine. Once it is warmed up it starts ok but still takes about 3 cranks. This morning I couldn't get it going at all. I checked the primer bulb and it was solid. I ended up calling out the RACV. They checked things over and then hooked up an OBD reader. No faults, good RPM. He could feel the primer bulb pulsing so said no problems with fuel, battery is fine, he decided that it must be glow plug related. Then he turned it over once more and it fired. I then took it to my auto electrician who tested all the circuit and each individual glow plug but could not find a problem. The Patrol was starting fine by then as it was almost at operating temp.

It has developed a very brief buzzing noise when I accelerate, passing through the 2000rpm range, this goes when it warms up. I also have an oil leak from the turbo. My mechanic reckons the noise is turbo related and referred me to AXT turbos. They say the noise will be a warped manifold, without seeing or hearing the car, and have quoted about $1000 to machine the manifold and replace an oil seal in the turbo, and if a replacement turbo is required about $3000.

Once it is started it drives perfectly. Boost is fine on the turbo. No overheating. Slightly poor economy, between 18.5 and 20 when towing my 1.8T caravan, 15 about town and 13 cruising.

Where to from here.

When you get a Chance get the car to operating Temp and pop the Bonnet you will see a Black hose Connecting all your injectors together remove the hose from the injectors very Gently (as they Are expensive to replace) and get someone to crank the car while your looking at the Injectors, if you get any diesel coming out the top of the injectors they are faulty and need to be replaced…!
 

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The above comment should be worded as such. "If there is large quantities of diesel coming out of the tops of the injectors, they are suspect" All injectors when working have fuel come out of the leak off end. If using correct measuring equipment and you have a bad injector, you will see one that has 2-5 times more fuel delivery than the others. This is the injector bypassing fuel internally and not allowing rail pressure to build up.

Andy
 

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I had a similar starting issue with my 3.0 CRD. While it was in the workshop getting a few other bits and pieces added the guys got to the bottom of the issue. Mine was a faulty fuel pressure sensor which was loosing pressure after sitting for a bit. Hence it took a lot longer to start when it sat overnight as more pressure was lost, but when starting and stopping during the day it was fine. At first we did suspect maybe a leaking injector but for the ease of bench testing the injectors they ruled that out (I'm lucky that diesel care do my work as they have all the good bits on hand to help sort out issues)

I had it fixed about 2 months ago and not a single issue since, especially as my patrol will sit for up to 2 weeks at a time without being driven (the joys of a work car)
 

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I have found my Patrol getting difficult to start, gradually getting worse over the last 3 weeks. She cranks over fine but takes up to 10 cranks before she fires up, then it runs fine. Once it is warmed up it starts ok but still takes about 3 cranks. This morning I couldn't get it going at all. I checked the primer bulb and it was solid. I ended up calling out the RACV. They checked things over and then hooked up an OBD reader. No faults, good RPM. He could feel the primer bulb pulsing so said no problems with fuel, battery is fine, he decided that it must be glow plug related. Then he turned it over once more and it fired. I then took it to my auto electrician who tested all the circuit and each individual glow plug but could not find a problem. The Patrol was starting fine by then as it was almost at operating temp.

It has developed a very brief buzzing noise when I accelerate, passing through the 2000rpm range, this goes when it warms up. I also have an oil leak from the turbo. My mechanic reckons the noise is turbo related and referred me to AXT turbos. They say the noise will be a warped manifold, without seeing or hearing the car, and have quoted about $1000 to machine the manifold and replace an oil seal in the turbo, and if a replacement turbo is required about $3000.

Once it is started it drives perfectly. Boost is fine on the turbo. No overheating. Slightly poor economy, between 18.5 and 20 when towing my 1.8T caravan, 15 about town and 13 cruising.

Where to from here.
i had the same issue on my 2016 gu. it was a small relief valve on the end of the fuel rail. $35-$350 for the relief valve. simply lift up intercooler unscrew nut on the end of the rail at the front. This is the valve, screw a new one in, put it back together and away you go.
good luck hope this helps.
 

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Had the same issue with my 1992 GQ TD42. Difficult to start, hot or cold, multiple cranks required etc. Issue came on suddenly after battery was inadvertently discharged overnight. Had the battery checked - ok, but still difficult to start. Replaced glow plugs - still difficult to start. Changed fuel filter - ditto. Fiddled with earth and +ve leads on starter motor - bingo, problem solved. Should have known it was electrical all along :)
 

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I have found my Patrol getting difficult to start, gradually getting worse over the last 3 weeks. She cranks over fine but takes up to 10 cranks before she fires up, then it runs fine. Once it is warmed up it starts ok but still takes about 3 cranks. This morning I couldn't get it going at all. I checked the primer bulb and it was solid. I ended up calling out the RACV. They checked things over and then hooked up an OBD reader. No faults, good RPM. He could feel the primer bulb pulsing so said no problems with fuel, battery is fine, he decided that it must be glow plug related. Then he turned it over once more and it fired. I then took it to my auto electrician who tested all the circuit and each individual glow plug but could not find a problem. The Patrol was starting fine by then as it was almost at operating temp.

It has developed a very brief buzzing noise when I accelerate, passing through the 2000rpm range, this goes when it warms up. I also have an oil leak from the turbo. My mechanic reckons the noise is turbo related and referred me to AXT turbos. They say the noise will be a warped manifold, without seeing or hearing the car, and have quoted about $1000 to machine the manifold and replace an oil seal in the turbo, and if a replacement turbo is required about $3000.

Once it is started it drives perfectly. Boost is fine on the turbo. No overheating. Slightly poor economy, between 18.5 and 20 when towing my 1.8T caravan, 15 about town and 13 cruising.

Where to from here.
I had this issue about a year ago. it's the valve which looks like a nut on the end of the fuel rail. The spring gets week and let's the fuel bypass, can't buy a genuine one but you can get a good quality one for about $80. You can also buy a complete blank from some of the chip retailers. Genuine nissan will replace whole fuel rail for about 3.5k.
I pulled my valve apart and shimmer the spring, reassembled been fine ever since. valve must done up tight, very fine tolerances. That's it good luck!
 
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