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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Friends,
Hope it's not too early to call you guys that yet. I bought an engine with a spun bearing with a reconditioned head. So soon as I get the motor , which is coming up from near Gosford,I'm going to replace it with mine to fix valve problem. That way I can build a motor while using another. I digress, this is the first time I'll be removing the head and I have a manual with the bolt removal sequence but as you are loosening it is there any tips on how far you should turn each bolt before moving on to the next. The manual just says progressively but I don't wanna crack the head and I don't wanna take a year either and I don't wanna snap a bolt or do anything bad. So please relate experiences and knowledge. Any tips. Also I have a torque wrench you know the kingchrome one you buy from bunnings. A little worried about its accuracy so would you go to the tightest point of head bolt specs or the middle. You guys just keep giving so thanks to all in advance.:D
4x4 I Love them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh and one more thing. What bolts should I use. I searched for arp head bolts but I don't think they make bolts for this head.
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I use NASON head bolts they are TTY bolts (talk to yield) they should only be used once. Go to eBay & type in patrol head bolts. I think it cost me about $69 for a set.
 

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Since is tighted at 105 degrees ( unghiular - coresponding to 115-120 Nm) after an fist aproach at 29Nm , you can go wrong by spliting the 105 degrees in half .
 

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Undoing isn't too bad, I usually go from out side in to the middle progressively cracking each one the. Release the pressure the same way. Then pull them all off.
As for Kinchrome gear, I have a lot of Kinchrome gear and its never let me down. I'll generally only buy Kinchrome or Snap On. My mate has everything Kinchrome including the torque wrench and he's never had an issue so don't stress about that.

You could try a penetrating lubricant, but I've never bothered. Didn't realise it may be necessary until my mate (mentioned above) managed to snap 6 head bolts removing the heads on his housemate's V8 Disco. But provided the motor was built properly and with some common sense, they won't be seized up that badly. Just ensure you put the supplied lubricant on the bolts before installing them.
 

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Man you are keeping yourself busy!

Remove the headbolts using the reverse of the tightening sequence. Crack by half a turn each, then go back over the sequence for another half a turn, then pull 'em out.

I searched high and low for ARP equivalents. Apart from drilling the block to 1/2" and using Ford Cleveland stude, the closest I got was actually a VW product, but short by thirty mm. I ended up using genuine headbolts and a genuine gasket. Pick up the thickest head gasket when you order, which I think is 1.8mm? These motors have 22:1 compression, a bit of a thicker head gasket certainly won't hurt. The genuine gasket is a nice Multi Layer Steel gasket. Don't forget to use Hylomar on the head gasket before you bolt her up, it works quite well.

Cheers,
Mick
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Man you are keeping yourself busy!

Remove the headbolts using the reverse of the tightening sequence. Crack by half a turn each, then go back over the sequence for another half a turn, then pull 'em out.

I searched high and low for ARP equivalents. Apart from drilling the block to 1/2" and using Ford Cleveland stude, the closest I got was actually a VW product, but short by thirty mm. I ended up using genuine headbolts and a genuine gasket. Pick up the thickest head gasket when you order, which I think is 1.8mm? These motors have 22:1 compression, a bit of a thicker head gasket certainly won't hurt. The genuine gasket is a nice Multi Layer Steel gasket. Don't forget to use Hylomar on the head gasket before you bolt her up, it works quite well.

Cheers,
Mick
Thanks Mick,
Yeah I wanna know it all yesterday. I really appreciate your help. Are you saying not to bother measuring the piston clearance just whack on the big one and she'll be right? And you mentioned something about about using the gu intake to install intercooler but that it has a right angle bend that is a power robber. Can you get any after market intakes that fix this problem. I'm looking at some intercoolers now. What the safari one like? Are there any differences in intercoolers. And what are the different costs.
Big thanks again
4 wheel drive luvem
 

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The GU intake will bolt right up and give you a 90 degree inlet on top of the plenum facing the driver's side, which is perfect. The power-robbing 90 degree I was talking about is actually on the inlet side of the turbocharger, right on the inlet. Nasty.

To be honest I used an Ebay bar-and-plate job on my Pootroller. The biggest difference between name brands such as PWR, Greddy, Precision etc is the end tank design, where the Ebay jobs are pretty sad in that regard. But you'll move around 700 cubic feet per minute with the RD and a fair whack of boost, which any of the ebay Bar and Plate coolers will do without too much pressure drop. There are marked differences in flow between ebay coolers and reputable manufacturers, but you won't notice the difference with a stock turbo RD28. Mine works perfectly and will get intake temperatures around ten degrees above ambient on a 30* day in Townsville.

I didn't bother with piston protrusion with my rebuild. Quench isn't a massive deal with an Indirect Injection diesel and again, with 22:1 compression standard I wouldn't mind any reduction in compression when winding the boost up.

Cheers,
Mick
 
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