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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey All,

Just went out to flip the rear tailshaft.

However the gearbox end will not come off the transfer. Tried gently tapping with a 4LB mallet but no go ? Not to keen in using to much force as I know there balanced etc.

Also the bolts at the gearbox end appear to be pressed in and cant get them out ? nuts are off and was hoping once loose would slide off etc.

Ideas people ?
 

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Hit harder . It's on a small spigot . Just tap it on opposing sides back and forth and it will come off
 

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The uni bolts should tap out with a hammer` you could use timber to ease the blow.

As for the tailsharft. either give it a bigger hit or push the car back and forward which should
pop it off .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just went back out and tried hammering the flange bolts (with nut on) and no budge.

So if I leave the bolts inplace and try tapping all around I might be able to get the flanges to seperate ?

 

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builder not a buyer!
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May I ask why you are wanting to flip the rear tailshaft mate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cause after my lift the tailshaft is hitting the crossmember of heavy braking or full rear flex. By swapping it the skinny part from the diff end will give more clearance on teh crossmember. Very common mod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
LOL, tried that but wont work as the bolt edge is flush against cone heading to the gearbox. If that makes sense
 

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just encountering the same thing, its a ti 4.8 and has the handbrake on the rear discs and not a tailshaft handbrake like my old gq, any solution to getting the gearbox end off?
 

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Put the nuts on so they are a bit loose then go for a short drive, e.g around the block. That might be enough to loosen it as its probably rusted on.
 

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sorted, rust was not an issue as it a is a brand new car, anyway found that the transfer case studs are pushed through the flange, the tail shaft was just an extremely tight fit around the locator ring. IF ANY ONE HAS THIS PROBLEM IN THE FUTURE JUST TRY AND LEVER THE SHAFT OFF< THERE IS NOTHING STOPPING IT
 

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Put the nuts on so they are a bit loose then go for a short drive, e.g around the block. That might be enough to loosen it as its probably rusted on.
never do this as if it does come loose you will damage the flanges or sheer the studs of
 

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BORDERTREK 4X4 & FABRICATION
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Put the nuts on so they are a bit loose then go for a short drive, e.g around the block. That might be enough to loosen it as its probably rusted on.
never do this as if it does come loose you will damage the flanges or sheer the studs of
X11239823273
It'll loosen it alright. And probably end up with the tailshaft pole vaulting the rig over onto it's side.
So if I leave the bolts inplace and try tapping all around I might be able to get the flanges to seperate ?
Yes. The bolts wont be pressed in a spline like a wheel stud otherwise they wouldn't have a hex head. They are a tight fit though and so is the spigot in the centre. You'll see when you get it off.
 

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sorted, rust was not an issue as it a is a brand new car,
If only that was the case... All the new Nissans I see have some form of rust, mostly just surface rust on CV's and flanges and other unpainted areas.

never do this as if it does come loose you will damage the flanges or sheer the studs of
Higher chance of getting hit by lightening, and if you're that worried about something like that then don't take it to a mechanic then. We've got all sorts of other little tricks too.
Anyway when I said go for a short drive, I didn't mean go drag race your mates. You could probably just rock the car in forward/ reverse in the driveway and it would loosen it.
 
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