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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I’m new to the forum so go easy.

I’ve recently acquired a Land Rover series 2a with fully swapped in patrol running gear. Engine, 4spd box, axles, brakes etc.

I bought the car as a non running project having sat for years (1.5-2 minimum).

first port of call was to see if the engine even ran

Rigged a makeshift fuel can, primed the lift pump and jumped the plugs and starter (could only reach plug 1 so maybe not much heat at back?)

Turned the engine over several times to build pressure before putting heat in the plugs to start it.

started up semi easily but makes a horrible clatter and doesn’t seem to run on all cylinders.

couldn’t run for long as the cooling system wasn’t in place.

here’s a video of it running.


See what you all think.

Very clattery, dreading the bottom end but it doesn’t seem to have that sound to me - I might be wrong though.

Cheers
Nial
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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Hmm, I had an NA SD33 that didn't fire on all cylinders, plenty of white and grey smoke and had a knock.
Number 1 rod bearing had parted company with the con rod.

However your issue could be injection related too.

Easiest thing to do is to drop the oil and change the filter, if its bearing related you will see a metallic shimmer in the oil and likely bits of bearing stuck in the pleats of the oil filter.
If it's chewed a bearing, it'll likely be a rod bearing. The good news is they're not too hard to change with the engine in the car. The bad news is, the crank bearings will likely be garbage as well and it's just not worth trying to change them in the car. The oil gears and housing may also be damaged, so I'd pull that off and check it too if necessary.

If its injection related, it would be uncommon for an injector to fail by sticking closed, but if there has been fuel contamination or corrosion it may stick open.
Start by making sure there's no air leaks in the system, check hose clamps, hose condition etc, then I'd try cracking the injector lines loose at each injector with the engine running and listenting for a change in running condition.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Hello,

Thanks for the reply and sorry to get back so late.

I’ve bled the fuel system but am now held back by non functioning glow plugs.

Hopefully that’ll sort it.

SD33 engines are incredibly rare in the U.K. so if I need a replacement I’m looking £1500 and there’s only two listed for sale in the whole country.


Are there any other engines that you know of that mate up to the 4spd box.


Cheers
 

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Nice rig. I nearly bought something similar years ago when i had an MQ. Having previously had a defender county with the v8 i though this was a great conversion.
Sorry i cant offer much advice on the sd33.
Hope you get it going without too much headache. And look forwaed to seeing some more pics of it
 

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nissan g160
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Are there any other engines that you know of that mate up to the 4spd box.
They came out with a few different motors. One was the P40 which I once heard was cast copied from a TK Bedford motor which I'm sure you could find a few of. I've never sat them side by side to check tho. Most commonly available motor that they had would probably be the L28, as they came out in Nissan Laurels, 280s, Cedrics, Glorias and 22 years of Patrols.
Still, I would be following the advice of @james008 above; figure out what's wrong, may just be an injector issue.
Neat little truck, will be a great project. Enjoy :)
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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10,778 Posts
Hello,

Thanks for the reply and sorry to get back so late.

I’ve bled the fuel system but am now held back by non functioning glow plugs.

Hopefully that’ll sort it.

SD33 engines are incredibly rare in the U.K. so if I need a replacement I’m looking £1500 and there’s only two listed for sale in the whole country.


Are there any other engines that you know of that mate up to the 4spd box.


Cheers
A sniff of brake or carby cleaner down the intake will get the engine running with non functional plugs, it is not a long term solution though.
Even starting with no glow plugs the engine should be running smooth with all cylinders firing in under 30 seconds anyway. Unfortunately I doubt your running issue is glow related.

I wouldn't be looking around at a replacement engine just yet, even if yours needs work. As far as engines go these old SDs are reasonably easy to work on, and parts availability is quite good considering the age of them.

There are other engines that utilise the 4 speed box, but nothing that will directly bolt on to my knowledge. An SD22/23/25 might, but even the SD33T requires an input shaft swap. P40 and L28 require different bellhousings, too.
 
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