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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, hoping to get some help to troubleshoot my problem and hopefully save me a trip to the mechanic.

Basically the car's got no guts. 1st gear 0-10kh is ok, anything up from that there's almost no power. It's basically undrivable in traffic. A truck can easily out accelerate me at lights.

Example I'll be in 4th gear at 40-50kh, foot to floor and nothing, the car won't budge and the revs won't go up at all.

The problem seems to get worse the higher the gears I go up. So 1st gear ok, but not great. 2nd bad, 3rd worse and so on. Don't think its limp as the problem is constant not intermittent.

Also the engine is making a whizzing/whining noise when accelerator is pressed in any gear. Immediately goes away when taken out of gear and cruising to a stop. I'm guessing this is the alternator not the turbo.

  • GU3 2001 ZD30
  • Been parked for about 3 months. Not sure if the issue existed before then, but seems to be gradually getting worse and worse now.
  • Recently changed the battery and installed an amp/speakers. Amp may not be grounded properly though. Whining noise could be the alternator from bad ground?
  • Changed battery terminal over recently, needed to cut factory cable connectors off to put wire directly into door doof bayyery terminal.

Could this be electrical or mechanical? Only thing I can think of is MAF sensor playing up from battery terminal job. Although not sure.
 

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After Monday and Tuesday, even the calender says W
06 Td42ti cab chassis
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Test your MAF..That would be my first port of call and check all vac hoses and intercooler plumbing.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Could also be TPS.
Limp will disappear when you lift foot from throttle and return when conditions are reached again, it is called limp because it allows you to limp home, boost is usually restricted to 10psi and outright speed to 100k but taking ages to get there.
You can test the TPS with a multimeter if you are a little electronically inclined. Some TPS are able to be dismantled and cleaned, have a look in the DI archives I'm sure I put a thread by a guy who did this many years ago, may be in mods or maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks will check the TPS /
Could also be TPS.
Limp will disappear when you lift foot from throttle and return when conditions are reached again, it is called limp because it allows you to limp home, boost is usually restricted to 10psi and outright speed to 100k but taking ages to get there.
You can test the TPS with a multimeter if you are a little electronically inclined. Some TPS are able to be dismantled and cleaned, have a look in the DI archives I'm sure I put a thread by a guy who did this many years ago, may be in mods or maintenance.
Thanks mate, will check the TPS over the weekend. I don't think its limp though as the problem is constant.

Today did a test, in third gear sitting at 40kh at about 1300rpm put foot down to the floor wouldn't budge, rpms and speed both nothing. Let go and waited, tried again and same thing.

Will check the TPS/MAF over this week and post results.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Thanks will check the TPS /


Thanks mate, will check the TPS over the weekend. I don't think its limp though as the problem is constant.

Today did a test, in third gear sitting at 40kh at about 1300rpm put foot down to the floor wouldn't budge, rpms and speed both nothing. Let go and waited, tried again and same thing.

Will check the TPS/MAF over this week and post results.
From your earlier description it didn't really sound like limp to me either, if it doesn't reset on lifting foot it is highly unlikely. During my many ZD30 projects over the years I've experienced the full gamut of limp modes more times than most have had breakfast.
For MAFv limp there are 3 ranges that I have documented exact voltages for, under 2400, under 3000, under 3500, I have been told by some there is one under 2000 but in 20 years I have not experienced that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ye
From your earlier description it didn't really sound like limp to me either, if it doesn't reset on lifting foot it is highly unlikely. During my many ZD30 projects over the years I've experienced the full gamut of limp modes more times than most have had breakfast.
For MAFv limp there are 3 ranges that I have documented exact voltages for, under 2400, under 3000, under 3500, I have been told by some there is one under 2000 but in 20 years I have not experienced that one.
Yeah I'm starting to think its fuel filter or pump related although fuel filter was changed not long ago.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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it looks like a clogged fuel filter.
And I can confirm the 2000 limp if the VNT management is well 'tuned' to get the turbo push max air in admission.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Ok so quick update. Looks like it was a fuel filter. I removed the MAF plug and drove up the street a bit, there was pretty much no difference, which makes me think the engine still getting air, but not fuel.

Anyway so, cleaned the MAF. It wasn't particularly dirty. A bit of black stuff but definately nothing compared to other stories I've heard.

So then swapped out the fuel filter, chucked some injector cleaner in the tank and the car runs way better.Throttle is responsive now.

I serviced the rig only about 3000k ago with a random and they said they changed the fuel filter. I didn't bother checking, but now wondering if they actually changed it.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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The shortest life I've had from a genuine fuel filter (I only use genuine and buy them from our own nizzbits), is 11000k, picked up some crap fuel on a long outback trip, at 3000k there is a good chance it wasn't done if changing fixed the issue. On another note, any dirt on a MAF is not good, I clean mine each 10,000k whether it needs it or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The shortest life I've had from a genuine fuel filter (I only use genuine and buy them from our own nizzbits), is 11000k, picked up some crap fuel on a long outback trip, at 3000k there is a good chance it wasn't done if changing fixed the issue. On another note, any dirt on a MAF is not good, I clean mine each 10,000k whether it needs it or not.
Yeah good call on the MAF. Will probably go genuine on the next one, but 100% doing minor services myself from now on. Time to start a log book.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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You should not use a non-genuine NISSAN MAF.
Our ECU is VERY sensitive to the MAF voltage. If you pick up a MAF which provides less voltage than the original ( ex : Pierburg ), you ECU will ask less fuel to the pump, and you will loose power. Same story with dirty MAF : It provides less voltage to the ECU, and therefore you get less fuel injected, and less power.

On the other side, a Nissan Maxima MAF on a 2000 Patrol seems to send a higher voltage, hence a higher quantity of fuel, but limp is not far away... if you do nothing about it.

Go genuine !
 
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