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We have a 2005 Auto 3Ltr Wagon with a ARE Intercooler and large ARE Bonnet Scoop, we tow a 2 ½ ton van and I am wondering if removing the Rubber Cowling on top of the Intercooler and the large Plastic Shroud around the Intercooler will help in reducing the EGT temperatures and under bonnet temperatures.

Thanks in advance for all replies
Ian & Estelle
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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What EGT's are you getting? if it's constantly over 550C you have other issues and maybe need to look at boost, driving styles, etc, EGT's are not absolutely linked to under bonnet temps either.

But in short, no it won't, the engine cover and rubber concertina are there to ensure all inflowing air from the scoop flows through the IC, if it doesn't the IC loses efficiency quickly. If you are sure you can modify and achieve that then sure take it away. I don't have the plastic shroud around my CCIC as it just won't fit, but I do have the rubber concertina in place and it is trimmed and stabilised to fit securely and seal the top of the IC, I can guarantee that every bit of air into the scoop goes through my IC, this is one reason I am only 10c above ambient on a very hot Queensland day at the IC outlet, not bad for a top mount.

Check that the rubber sections that seal the engine bay under the mudguards and they plastic section that sits under the heat exchanger and in front of the steering damper, this is not a guard, it and the side bits aid airflow around the engine.

Give us some feedback on EGT, boost, and what makes you think your underbonnet temps are higher than anyone else that tows. Are you auto or manual? do you have the auto trans lock up if it is Auto?
 

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Repy to Geetoo

We have a Auto and tow in 3rd gear, EGT are around 400 and have had 500 on a long hill, boost runs at 16 and we have a DP chip set at 5, I was wondering if that is o/k so maybe I leave as is.

Thanks
Ian & Estelle
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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We have a Auto and tow in 3rd gear, EGT are around 400 and have had 500 on a long hill, boost runs at 16 and we have a DP chip set at 5, I was wondering if that is o/k so maybe I leave as is.

Thanks
Ian & Estelle
Mate if that is what you are getting then you don't have a problem, enjoy your trips.
 

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On the same subject....i bought small spots to mount on the bull bar as i didn't want big egg fryers to cut down flow to the radiator.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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On the same subject....i bought small spots to mount on the bull bar as i didn't want big egg fryers to cut down flow to the radiator.
I've had huge old IPF's on mine for 14 years and they have not interfered with my temps, after I did my NADS years ago my EGT came under reasonable control even before I put the CCIC on.

If the lights are hard against the grill you may have an issue but the way they are normally mounted and the shape of the light causes the airflow to regather quite well behind the light.
 

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I dont often tow anything heavy but i do get into the patrol in the sand dunes. The difference in EGTS just buy spooling a lilttle faster and boost at 18psi instead of 16psi is pretty noticable. I always run 18psi peak boost but normally close the needle valve a quater turn more when i know im going to work the engine hard. then back it off again when crusing to save some fuel. Been working well for the last few years
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Absolutely, I run 18.5psi and have for quite some time, as you say the difference in EGT between 16 and 18 is significant, the trick is getting to 18 without the limp baggage that comes with it ;).

My dual Dawes system looks after the eco for me.
 
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