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I just had another go at the 1.6mm ally, using the pedal
So this my second attempt at welding, and my first experience with a pedal.
Set to 80A, with a rise and fall time of 1s
I haven't worked out what the knob on the pedal does - I just set it fully clockwise assuming that'd be 80A with the pedal floored and maybe 5A before it clicks off. The 80A feels right but I'm not sure about the minimum.

Anyway here's a pic of tonight's effort, first weld at the top, last at the bottom. Intentionally ran a weld to the edge as a pedal control experiment.
526717
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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I think the knob is an amperage adjuster too, so I have left mine at maximum.

And your weld that you ran over the edge is where the pedal comes into its own. As you get towards the edge and the material is hot you can back off the amperage with the pedal to reduce that. That is the theory anyway, but it requires practice like everything else. I am going to stop experimenting until I can improve a couple of things to get cleaner welds, such as some new clean ally instead of old scrap, and a dedicated tungsten grinder.
 

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nissan
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New clean ally will really help. I grind my tungstens on the 200mm bench grinder that I use for everything else. As I’m not welding anything for the aeronautical industry it works just fine.
Possibly more important is having enough post gas flow to limit oxydation of the tungsten.
 

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Yes, I have seen the info on post flow, so I have that right. My scrap ally is mostly from a second hand tray that I bought about 6 years ago, so likely 10 years old or more. So that is not helping. The grinding wheel is just me doing what I am told, so like a good boy I will find something to keep for tungsten only. It can only help.
 

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New clean ally will really help. I grind my tungstens on the 200mm bench grinder that I use for everything else. As I’m not welding anything for the aeronautical industry it works just fine.
Possibly more important is having enough post gas flow to limit oxydation of the tungsten.
The 1.6mm ally I'm using is offcuts from a cnc cutter. It's dirty, oxidised and dripping with some sort of cutting compound. I've washed it down and scrubbed with a plastic scourer, then a good wipe with acetone, but as can be seen from my earlier photos there is still a lot of muck burning off. Really I'm not doing myself any favours trying to learn on this stuff, so I'll get some new stock from Bunnings or similar and have another go over the weekend.
 

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25 x 3mm flat bar would be ideal. Cut into 100mm coupons, you can do all the typical welds.

I also have some 25 x 3mm round tube that I cut into 25mm lengths to practice welding bungs.
 

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Welded two 3mm plates together to make top mounts for the w2a intercooler. These will be drilled and tapped, then ally 'soldered' to the thin radiator material after tacking into position.
I'll leave a steel bolt in the threaded holes during soldering to protectthe thread; the solder won't adhere to ferrous metal.
Welding is a useful skill to learn.
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So far so good Rick.

I have bought a Tig pen and a separate grinder, and got a few bits of clean ally to practice on when time permits. I am part way through building a gullwing toolbox, so it will need some welding soon!!
 

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I might get a Tig pen as well as one of those Tig Finger things.

I welded those plates in a vice and it worked great as a heatsink. It's the first time I've tried welding with a gas lens. Actually had trouble controlling the arc, it was all over the place. May also be due to the grind I had on the tungsten, it wouldn't ball properly.
I'll be adding a third plate to the stack to make it 9mm thick, I don't think 6mm is enough for an M8 thread in ally.
 

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I’ve put stainless rivnuts into 5mm ally. Might be stronger for your project.
 

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In all the TIG welding vids that I’ve watched, and there have been a few, I’ve never seen a good welder using a TIG pen..
 

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In all the TIG welding vids that I’ve watched, and there have been a few, I’ve never seen a good welder using a TIG pen..
...I'm not a good welder... 😄

But, feeding the wire isn't my big issue at the moment because my welds are small. I can hold the wire and move it into the puddle ok. What I need to practice is torch control and rate. I tend to move too slowly, the work overheats and burns through.
Competence will only come through practice, the coming holidays ought to give me time.
 

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Come to think of it, I haven’t seen any bad welders using TIG pens either :)
I took a 500mm 2.4 rod into the house and just continually fed it through my gloved fingers while I watched a film.
Don’t have a dependence on something that might not work or get lost one day..
 

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Come to think of it, I haven’t seen any bad welders using TIG pens either :)
I took a 500mm 2.4 rod into the house and just continually fed it through my gloved fingers while I watched a film.
Don’t have a dependence on something that might not work or get lost one day..
I think with my injuries, I would be lucky to do it well at any stage, let alone for even 10 minutes. Both of my hands are quite bad in this regard. That is why I have the TIG pen.
 

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You’ll never do a 10 minute TIG weld. I don’t think I ever go over 30 seconds before having to let it cool. 500mm of filler rod would be gone in less than a minute depending on how you have to speed up.
 

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You’ll never do a 10 minute TIG weld. I don’t think I ever go over 30 seconds before having to let it cool. 500mm of filler rod would be gone in less than a minute depending on how you have to speed up.
Maybe so, but it does not take long before such things are a problem for me now. And that is assuming I could even do it to start with. Hence the TIG pen. It is good when the rod gets short, and also when using a new full length rod, at least with my hands. Time will tell on how it goes for general use.

Did some testing today with clean ally (much newer stuff) and a re-ground tungsten on my new grinder. Went much better than the last attempt. Did a couple of edge welds easily (luck perhaps??) and a bit of a stuff around on the flat sides too. Even did a couple of fillet welds, with the same settings etc as before, so the old ally I used looks to be the culprit.

So I will need to practice on the exact material I need to use on my toolbox, so that I can weld the doors up. These can be done on the bench, so set-up won't be a problem. After that, there is a few welds to be run on the frame on the tray, so that will be a different kettle of fish, as they are near vertical.
 

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How fast should argon pressure bleed away after the cylinder valve is turned off?
With or without the welder connected, with the rate valve and cylinder valve closed, the high pressure bleeds away at about 1 division per minute, that is, it drops at about 200kpa per minute.
I've sprayed soapy water everywhere and can see no bubbles, but that gas has to be going somewhere. It gives me the impression that I'm losing gas all the time.
 

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With the old Renegade TIG the gas pressure would be zero the next day. With the new Razor it holds it much longer but I haven’t looked too closely at it because the amount of gas lost is really nothing.
You would lose a lot more with pre/post gas flow just tacking stuff before welding.
 

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Thanks John. With mine, it's zero after a few minutes. I just thought it should hold longer than that.
 

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I assume it’s some kind of shutoff solenoid inside the machine. You could crimp the outlet hose to test it.
 
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