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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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I have not done the practice that I need to, as I have been doing other work. No substitute for this. But I did manage to weld up a small doodad that I needed out of two pieces of angle to make a channel with an enclosed end. So, the first usable thing has been made. Its a start! LOL
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Righto, back to the problem - corner welds. No good at this point. I did some poor welds to day, just to get a job done, but it was not very good. Ally was new stock, brushed with a stainless brush, and cleaned with acetone. It does not show well in the photo, but corners on the flat pieces have been bevelled to suit. But unfortunately I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong.

Below is a picture of the job. Box section is 3mm, as is the piece of flat. The sheet is 2.5mm checkerplate. I have the same welder as you @JFF45, so what amperage would you think would be a good starting point for this?? In order to get a puddle I had it at 170 amps. I think this is too high. You can see the heat effect on the reverse side of the checkerplate.

527546
 

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Are you cleaning your filler rods with acetone before welding? I have heard that helps, but feel free to ignore me as I can't weld for :poop:.
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Are you cleaning your filler rods with acetone before welding? I have heard that helps, but feel free to ignore me as I can't weld for :poop:.
Yes I am. But the issue I am having is before the use of the filler rod.
 

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TD42 GQ
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Righto, back to the problem - corner welds. No good at this point. I did some poor welds to day, just to get a job done, but it was not very good. Ally was new stock, brushed with a stainless brush, and cleaned with acetone. It does not show well in the photo, but corners on the flat pieces have been bevelled to suit. But unfortunately I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong.

Below is a picture of the job. Box section is 3mm, as is the piece of flat. The sheet is 2.5mm checkerplate. I have the same welder as you @JFF45, so what amperage would you think would be a good starting point for this?? In order to get a puddle I had it at 170 amps. I think this is too high. You can see the heat effect on the reverse side of the checkerplate.

View attachment 527546
My machine is the smaller Viper 180, however the setup is apparently the same as the Razor. Unimig recommends ~30A per mm while the YouTube guys say 40A/mm.. For 3mm I find 90-110A is enough to get a pool, any more burns through unless I'm using AC pulse.
What's your AC balance and frequency? I've been using -20 balance and 110Hz with a sharpened 2.4mm ceriated tungsten and 1.6mm filler wire.
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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My machine is the smaller Viper 180, however the setup is apparently the same as the Razor. Unimig recommends ~30A per mm while the YouTube guys say 40A/mm.. For 3mm I find 90-110A is enough to get a pool, any more burns through unless I'm using AC pulse.
What's your AC balance and frequency? I've been using -20 balance and 110Hz with a sharpened 2.4mm ceriated tungsten and 1.6mm filler wire.
Are you doing fillet welds on those settings???? Because I can do all the other stuff on 110-120 amps at 100hz. But fillet welds are a different ballgame.

My machine has an auto 30% balance, so I leave it at that. I can vary it but no reason to. I am using 2.4 mm tungsten and wire. I will do some testing at lower amps around 140, but with higher frequencies and see how that goes.
 

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Alright, alright....

More testing today. I reduced the amperage and on even thicker material than my photo above, it was enough to get a puddle, with increased frequency. I went to 145hz. So then I set up my next test on 3mm T section ally, with a piece of 3mm flat in the corner. The actual job will have the T section and 2.5mm checkerplate, so pretty close. With this size material, I ran about 4 welds with some setting adjustments, and ended up on 150 amps, with no burn through the material. So it looks to be close. I will play with it a bit more to see what I find, but it is in the ballpark it seems.
 

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So a bit more testing this morning, and then I started on doing the job that I have been waiting to do for a few weeks. Of course, on the actual job, positioning was a lot harder and I could not get in a good position - for a rookie anyway. But I managed to get some welds done, and was making some progress.

Then I ran out of gas. :rolleyes:
 

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TD42 GQ
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So a bit more testing this morning, and then I started on doing the job that I have been waiting to do for a few weeks. Of course, on the actual job, positioning was a lot harder and I could not get in a good position - for a rookie anyway. But I managed to get some welds done, and was making some progress.

Then I ran out of gas. :rolleyes:
Similar experience here. Ran out of gas. Swapped up from a D size to the larger E size cylinder.
Finally made something useful, a bonnet catch stay to fit around the new W2A intercooler. The welds look rough. But, it won't break :)
 

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GQ Dual Cab. TD42Ti with fruit.
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Yep, I am on the useful stuff now too. I am not proficient enough and should be practicing, but stuff needs to be done.

Got a new E size bottle today and connected it up. Welder was still set up for the job from the previous day, so I was good to continue. No way could I get it to puddle. Swearing at it didn't help, so despite logic being that alternate settings were not needed, I tried a couple anyway. No good. It occurred to me that the gas was no good, but in my experience it was not the problem. Incidentally, the MIG and TIG do exactly the same thing when they run out of gas. So after some head scratching I noticed the variable control on the foot pedal had moved to half way. Oops. 🤪

I was moving around the bench a lot to run the welds on the job, and so the foot pedal was being moved too. And I must have moved the control knob. So I wound it back up to full, turned the amps back down and away I went!

The pedal control knob now has tape over it! 🤣
 
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