[AndrieK]

I have been busy with the design of a custom rear bar for probably the last 3 years. It's taking a while because designing it doesn't cost anything and, because it's not really a priority, funds keep getting allocated elsewhere. I'm getting close now though and will hopefully go out on quote for cutting & bending in the next month or so.

I do have a question about high-lift jack points, though. Due to space limitations, I can only get about 50mm worth of RHS into the side of the bar that I want to use as a jacking point. I measured my jack, and the lifting nose is ~105mm long, so about half the nose will be inside the bar.

Question is, is this enough or is the lifting nose going to slip out or even worse, break? I've never used a high-lift jack (frankly the thing scares the proverbial out of me), so I need some input from people with more experience.

 

[Batt's]

I had one in the late 80's, used it for maybe 10yrs on my 40ser cruiser a 60 ser and a 4 runner I used it enough to get an idea of how to be safe with it. I would personally not use it like you mentioned as it might slip off and damage you or the vehicle. I got rid of mine some time in the 90's and have never needed one again.

If the thought of using one scares you then you have 2 choices sell it or find a competent trainer or someone with good knowledge from using one and learn how to use it correctly don't muck around with it the only way I can put it is you need to be in control of it physically and mentally don't be a delicate tentative pussy using it you need to be confident and manly and treat it with respect but don't kid yourself because if it bites you may be lucky or the results may not be good for you and others near it or the vehicle. They are a reasonably good bit of gear but you need good safe points to use it off and an understanding of how the vehicle may react when jacking from the side etc. Your hand can get caught if you grip the top while jacking as the vehicle shifts. There are safer options around these days but still nothing wrong with it if you know what your doing.

 

[bods]

Generally they have a sort of hook on the end. I think tjm used to cut a t slot in their bars so the end will grab that and not slip out. I have an Xrox bar on my d22 and although it has slots for a high lift, they are just an open rectangle but vertical (if that makes sense, they are basically a hole cut in the upright, so the end of the Jack can grab it).

In saying that, I've used the high lift in the towbar hitch receiver and not had it slip out, but that was only on flat ground to test it, not trying to recover the vehicle or change a tyre....

 

[AndrieK]

@Batt's I've been thinking of doing a "refresher" recovery course at some point. Did one years ago but can definitely do with an update. I'm sure all I need is a little practise and guidance and I'll be comfortable using one. Mechanical (or electrical) systems don't normally worry me too much. I just need to understand how they function so that I can understand and mitigate the risks.

@bods my jack has a hook on the front tip of the lifting nose. You can see it poking through the RHS in the pic above. My plan is to cut a slot in the top of the RHS so that the jack can hook onto that. I've seen the T-slots that some commercially available rear bars / bullbars have, but I'm not sure what the structure looks like behind the face. I presumed there must be some form of reinforcement because I didn't think a 2.5 / 3.0mm skin would be able to support that type of ooad on its own...?

 

[bods]

I'll get a couple of photos of the setup on the Xrox bar just to give you an idea. Personally, I got one of those wheel hooks thay bolts to the end of the Jack and hooks into the wheel spokes. The idea being if the diff or chassis is hung up on something I can lift the wheel up and pack under it to get moving again.

Not sure if these will help. Don't mind the cobwebs haha.

I should add, that front section is all one piece, it just bolts to the chassis mounts.

 

[AndrieK]

I'll get a couple of photos of the setup on the Xrox bar just to give you an idea. Personally, I got one of those wheel hooks thay bolts to the end of the Jack and hooks into the wheel spokes. The idea being if the diff or chassis is hung up on something I can lift the wheel up and pack under it to get moving again.

Not sure if these will help. Don't mind the cobwebs haha.

I should add, that front section is all one piece, it just bolts to the chassis mounts.

Thx for the photos Bods. Gives me a good idea of what they've done.
How thick is that front plate? About 6mm...?

I also have one of those wheel hook strap thingy's... And a plastic base plate... I went all out a couple of years ago when Aldi had a 4x4 sale.

I have a standard Genuine Nissan steel front bar, so I don't have any high-lift jack points on the front. I was thinking the wheel straps would probably be first preference, but I thought since I have the opportunity to put something in the rear bar, I might as well do it. Can't hurt having extra options.

 

[Overboard]

I've never used a high lift jack on a vehicle but for entertainment I've sat around and watched others use them that were in the doggy doo and I'd be going for jacking positions on the bar that keep the post of the jack away from body panels. I've seen a car slip sideways when jacked from a similar point to what is in that sketch above and the top of the post left a nice crease in the rear guard.

 

[Bidja]

In the 80' had a SWB FJ45 cruiser and used a high lift jack often for fitting whl chains_ the vehicle had F/R solid RHS bars and fitted with leaf springs. Built to take it. Need to consider the lift ht required to raise the whl off the ground (eg: veh fitted with coil spring) and especially with lifting hitch point in the bar.

The "hook strap" for thru whl cut outs, would be adequate but need to chock under axle for whl change. Have a jack mounted on GU rear bar but have not used it to date. Have front and rear bars with F/R recovery hooks that accept a shackle, do carry length chain and would work it if needed. Plan on not getting hung up.

Pic of Jack mount on rear bar. Jack base plate is carried in spares box. I adapted a Kaymar rear bar mount brkt to Millweld rear bar

 

[AndrieK]

I've never used a high lift jack on a vehicle but for entertainment I've sat around and watched others use them that were in the doggy doo and I'd be going for jacking positions on the bar that keep the post of the jack away from body panels. I've seen a car slip sideways when jacked from a similar point to what is in that sketch above and the top of the post left a nice crease in the rear guard.

So if I understand you correctly, jack points on the front and rear of the vehicle (instead of the sides) are better...?

 

[bods]

Thx for the photos Bods. Gives me a good idea of what they've done.
How thick is that front plate? About 6mm...?

I also have one of those wheel hook strap thingy's... And a plastic base plate... I went all out a couple of years ago when Aldi had a 4x4 sale.

I have a standard Genuine Nissan steel front bar, so I don't have any high-lift jack points on the front. I was thinking the wheel straps would probably be first preference, but I thought since I have the opportunity to put something in the rear bar, I might as well do it. Can't hurt having extra options.

ah Aldi. I've thrown my Aldi vernier calipers on it and get about 4.5mm for that front plate. The mounts that bolt to the chassis are about 6mm. I should have taken a photo from further away, but they are each side of the bar, close to the chassis mounts so the majority of the lifting stress would go through there. Being open like that too are less likely to have the jack get caught in them if the vehicle moves or you need to push it off the jack to assist in recovering it. Plus, it won't damage panels. I believe the xrox side steps/sliders also have a high lift point in the middle of them for side lifting, but as mentioned above, panel damage is a big factor there too...

 

[Peter Connan]

So if I understand you correctly, jack points on the front and rear of the vehicle (instead of the sides) are better...?

The hi-lift jack can be incredibly versatile as a piece of recovery equipment. But to use that versatility, one needs to be able to use it pretty much all around the car. Also, the jack's nose needs to be able to pivot and rotate for it to work properly. Any "hole" that limits it's movement is a liability.

It's success as a recovery tool is also tied to it's instability. Unfortunately, it also works best on a light vehicle. It is flippin hard to control the weight of a Patrol on a hi-lift jack. But the easiest place to obtain reasonable stability is by jacking on the side of the car. Ideally, between the wheels.

And 3-4mm steel thickness is more than enough.

I think your square tubes can work reasonably well, but I would recommend canting them upwards. You want to angle the jack's beam away from the car.