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nissan gu iv
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Starting to get the ****s guys so asking for help
Have a 07 gu zd30 crd manual, mods are
6" lift
35s on steelies
Xrox bullbar
4" stainless snorkel
Custom stainless airbox
Stainless plumbing all the way to the turbo
Custom 2 n half turbo inlet
Straight through 3" exhaust
Tillix kit, running 25psi
Catch can
And some accessories, roof cage,light bars etc

My egt's have always been around 400 post turbo at 110ks,550 max up a steep range, now around 500 at 110,i hit 650 up moonbi mountain near Tamworth and started ****ting myself, i have my boost valve about 3 threads in and it gives me 25psi thats the lowest i can get out of it and my bleed valve is fully open,im spooling up fast wich is fine its getting more then enough air,the egr is blocked, i just cant lower my egt's, im thinking it might be over fuelling, is there a way to wind back the fuel on a crd??? Any help would be awsome 馃憣 pic of my rig to help maybe, only thing ive noticed out of the ordinary is my actuator isn't touching the grub screw now
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nissan
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With the boost you are running I'd say a better intercooler is probably the best way to get cooler and denser air into the engine.
 

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2009 GU
Joined
348 Posts
Starting to get the ****s guys so asking for help
Have a 07 gu zd30 crd manual, mods are
6" lift
35s on steelies
Xrox bullbar
4" stainless snorkel
Custom stainless airbox
Stainless plumbing all the way to the turbo
Custom 2 n half turbo inlet
Straight through 3" exhaust
Tillix kit, running 25psi
Catch can
And some accessories, roof cage,light bars etc

My egt's have always been around 400 post turbo at 110ks,550 max up a steep range, now around 500 at 110,i hit 650 up moonbi mountain near Tamworth and started ****ting myself, i have my boost valve about 3 threads in and it gives me 25psi thats the lowest i can get out of it and my bleed valve is fully open,im spooling up fast wich is fine its getting more then enough air,the egr is blocked, i just cant lower my egt's, im thinking it might be over fuelling, is there a way to wind back the fuel on a crd??? Any help would be awsome 馃憣 pic of my rig to help maybe, only thing ive noticed out of the ordinary is my actuator isn't touching the grub screw now View attachment 538248
View attachment 538247
View attachment 538245
View attachment 538246
The higher the boost the hotter the air so definitely intercooler
 

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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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i have my boost valve about 3 threads in and it gives me 25psi thats the lowest i can get out of it and my bleed valve is fully open
Three turns clockwise from from first engagement of Tillix thread is good start point for setting max boost.

Pull the Tillix apart to clean it and make sure the plunger can lift off seat with spring slightly compressed (say 2 turns) - check operation with a gauged compressor/pump (if available) with silicon hoses connected to both ends of Tillix and should hear air pass when plunger lifts off seat.

You should be able to unscrew Tillix to get boost below 10psi something is wrong.

Is manual boost control hooked up correctly?


only thing ive noticed out of the ordinary is my actuator isn't touching the grub screw now
Needle (bleed) valve needs to be adjusted (close it) until actuator rod lever just touches limit stop. With needle fully open she maybe laggy but will also raise your EGTs under load (hauling),

Before starting, close needle valve and rod should rise and lever should rest against stop screw.
 

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nissan gu iv
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Three turns clockwise from from first engagement of Tillix thread is good start point for setting max boost.

Pull the Tillix apart to clean it and make sure the plunger can lift off seat with spring slightly compressed (say 2 turns) - check operation with a gauged compressor/pump (if available) with silicon hoses connected to both ends of Tillix and should hear air pass when plunger lifts off seat.

You should be able to unscrew Tillix to get boost below 10psi something is wrong.

Is manual boost control hooked up correctly?




Needle (bleed) valve needs to be adjusted (close it) until actuator rod lever just touches limit stop. With needle fully open she maybe laggy but will also raise your EGTs under load (hauling),

Before starting, close needle valve and rod should rise and lever should rest against stop screw.
Ill give that a try mate
 

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nissan gu iv
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Three turns clockwise from from first engagement of Tillix thread is good start point for setting max boost.

Pull the Tillix apart to clean it and make sure the plunger can lift off seat with spring slightly compressed (say 2 turns) - check operation with a gauged compressor/pump (if available) with silicon hoses connected to both ends of Tillix and should hear air pass when plunger lifts off seat.

You should be able to unscrew Tillix to get boost below 10psi something is wrong.

Is manual boost control hooked up correctly?




Needle (bleed) valve needs to be adjusted (close it) until actuator rod lever just touches limit stop. With needle fully open she maybe laggy but will also raise your EGTs under load (hauling),

Before starting, close needle valve and rod should rise and lever should rest against stop screw.
I might have a faulty boost valve right in and right out ive never had it under 20psi
 

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nissan gu iv
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Anyone remember what fuse thing to buy to solder onto the pink wire on the maf sensor to stop triggering the engine light from the egr block
 

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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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I might have a faulty boost valve right in and right out ive never had it under 20psi
Check function and install as stated at post #4 above.

Before starting, close needle valve and rod should rise and lever should rest against stop screw.
This is with engine at idle of course - think you would know this!

Also check actuator operation - eng at idle (stationary), connect the vac supply direct to actuator (bypass the manual boost control):
hose connected _ rod should be all the way up and lever touching stop
hose disconnected(pull hose of actuator) _ rod should drop to bottom of stroke.
 

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nissan gu iv
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Check function and install as stated at post #4 above.


This is with engine at idle of course - think you would know this!

Also check actuator operation - eng at idle (stationary), connect the vac supply direct to actuator (bypass the manual boost control):
hose connected _ rod should be all the way up and lever touching stop
hose disconnected(pull hose of actuator) _ rod should drop to bottom of stroke.
Yeah mate ill try it at idle, ill wind it shut first and adjust from there
 

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nissan gu iv
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Check function and install as stated at post #4 above.


This is with engine at idle of course - think you would know this!

Also check actuator operation - eng at idle (stationary), connect the vac supply direct to actuator (bypass the manual boost control):
hose connected _ rod should be all the way up and lever touching stop
hose disconnected(pull hose of actuator) _ rod should drop to bottom of stroke.
I shut the bleed valve completely it dropped the actuator down but doesn't matter how far i open it the actuator still sits about 4mm roughly off the grub screw, but nearly closed has dropped my egt level, now at 110ks it sits around 400ish,up an incline it climbs to 500, only goes over 20psi in 5th at 90ks up accelerating, ill have a go at playing with the boost valve tomorrow, i remember calling tillix and the guy said to cut the spring and wind it in a bit to lower the boost but ill have a fiddle with it and see what happens
 

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I shut the bleed valve completely it dropped the actuator down
@ idle If you shut the needle valve the actuator rod should go up and lever should touch stop _ check this?

@ idle Connect the vac hose from the vac pipe near alternator (side of eng) and connect it directly to actuator _ rod should lift up and lever touch stop?
@ idle Remove (pull hose off) the actuator _ rod should drop?

I need to see a sketch or pic of how you have connected Tillix boost controller and the needle (bleed) valve to on vacuum side and to the actuator. How have you connected Tillix pressure side (boost) reference port?

i remember calling tillix and the guy said to cut the spring and wind it in a bit to lower the boost
Do not cut the Tillix spring (surprised Lindsay said this).
To raise boost U close Tillix(clockwise) and lower boost U unwind Tillix (anticlockwise)
Leave Tillix boost controller for the moment.

Have you a remap or stock ECM (ECU)?
 

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nissan gu iv
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@ idle If you shut the needle valve the actuator rod should go up and lever should touch stop _ check this?

@ idle Connect the vac hose from the vac pipe near alternator (side of eng) and connect it directly to actuator _ rod should lift up and lever touch stop?
@ idle Remove (pull hose off) the actuator _ rod should drop?

I need to see a sketch or pic of how you have connected Tillix boost controller and the needle (bleed) valve to on vacuum side and to the actuator. How have you connected Tillix pressure side (boost) reference port?


Do not cut the Tillix spring (surprised Lindsay said this).
To raise boost U close Tillix(clockwise) and lower boost U unwind Tillix (anticlockwise)
Leave Tillix boost controller for the moment.

Have you a remap or stock ECM (ECU)?
Only stock ecu,, ill take some detailed pics today some time for you, i had a 4x4 mechanic install it, boost valve is only a few threads in but you will see in the pics, no one in my town will put it on the dyno and tune it for me, i got turned away by the dyno place here, ill have to wait till i go back up the goldy, ir if anyone closer to coffs harbour will tune it
 

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nissan Patrol Y61 CRD
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Hello from Austria,
With high temperature on Exhaust Gases I would first check the Injectors. You can do that with the Injectors reflow measurement kit - this is very simple and I have measured following data over the years ( I do this twice a year).

The amount of Diesel that comes back per Injector (Bosch Injector) within 2 Minutes ( engine hot, normal rpm ) ist between 20 and 30ml. This is how this Injector reflow test looks like:





All 4 Injectors good:






Faulty Injector







Good Injector:
 

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now at 110ks it sits around 400ish,up an incline it climbs to 500, only goes over 20psi in 5th at 90ks up accelerating
Heading in the right direction. What boost max can you hold in 4th gear under load (not spike or bounce)?

Do this:
@ idle If you shut the needle valve the actuator rod should go up and lever should touch stop _ check this?

@ idle Connect the vac hose from the vac pipe near alternator (side of eng) and connect it directly to actuator _ rod should lift up and lever touch stop?
@ idle Remove (pull hose off) the actuator _ rod should drop?
 

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nissan gu iv
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Heading in the right direction. What boost max can you hold in 4th gear under load (not spike or bounce)?

Do this:
4th gear pinned is about 20psi, cruising at 110-120 in 5th is when it climbs to 25-26psi
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Heading in the right direction. What boost max can you hold in 4th gear under load (not spike or bounce)?

Do this:
Its hard to tell, 5th at 110 on a flat road feathering it,it sits between 10 and 18psi, slight incline will come up to 20 and over, but for now im not seeing over 300 degrees driving around town so heading in the right direction i would say, thank you very much, also seeing less black smoke on take off
 

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20 psi boost is more than enough with no remap. Boost is not all that is needed.

Surprised U do not get limp hauling up hill though I must say. Spooling around town you will get away with 20psi but not hauling.

seeing less black smoke on take off
Excess fuel black smoke (little is fine). More air now most likely.

5th at 110 on a flat road feathering it,it sits between 10 and 18psi
This is typical cruise boost behavior with manual boost control using Tillix or Dawes, not ideal but not uncommon.

.As said at the start, when U had the needle (bleed) fully open you were more than likely not allowing the VNT vanes to close enough under load condition, causing it to be laggy and higher EGTs.

Also CRD can handle max spool, so try closing the needle (bleed) valve completely and give it a run (note boost/EGT) and then open the Tillix controller at least 1/2 turn and see if max boost drops?

Note: If U want me to help out to set your boost control (as something is wrong if you cannot unwind Tillix to get lower than 20psi max boost). Need to do the tests of actuator as per post #16 and check the Tillix plunger/spring operation (pull it apart, make sure plunger and spring can float and test for pressure release variation with compressor or pump).
 
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