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After having too many flat batteries when the young bloke wants to watch a DVD while I wash the boat at the ramp or just from running the stereo while washing the car i decided to disable the so called smart voltage control on the alternator.

As you may know my y62 has had a new alternator to fix the flat battery problem and it didn't work.

When you turn the engine off my battery voltage is about 12.1v. This means the battery is no where near fully charged, even after a long trip. The dealer suggested I drive with the headlights on all the time as this makes the computer charge the battery to about 12.4v, but it is a work around rather than a solution.

So I checked the shop manual and, like most smart charging systems, if the voltage control system fails the on board regulator on the alternator takes over and the charge voltage is fixed to the maximum (14v plus). The wire to disonnect is almost impossible to do at the alternator, you can't get your hands up there, so I tried to find it in the IPDM which is the black box under the bonnet on the drivers side. Turns out it is a red wire on the 12 pin connector E13, but the connectors aren't directly labelled which makes it harder to identify. See pic.

I tried to extract the pin from the connector and failed, in the end I bit the bullet and just cut the wire, and applied liquid electrical tape. Hey presto, charging voltage is now 14.4, battery will be full charged after the next trip.

This system is used to reduce alternator load on the engine to reduce fuel consumption, I can't imagine it making much difference on the patrol.

For those of you with dual batteries who want to charge them faster and fuller then this is the way to do it. If your want to put a switch on this wire you could return the system to stock when it suited.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Connector E13 is the white one with the small wires, 6 pins wide and 2 high. To pull out the IPDM just lift the lid and squeeze the 2 tabs either side and pull it out.
 

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Voltage before.
 

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Good work, saved in my memory bank for future reference!(we haven't got one yet..)
Sort of a silly idea isn't it! In theory all good to like you say 'be more efficient' but I'd like to think my battery is charged to its fullest capacity 100% of the time!
 

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Luckily we have not had any battery issues. Is this specific to the ti-L or ??


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Luckily we have not had any battery issues. Is this specific to the ti-L or ??


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Dads ST-L has the same charging voltage, but he hasnt had any flat batteries. I think the TI-L entertainment system pulls a lot of power, running 3 screens and the DVD player??? i have put a dvd on for my son and not been able to start the car after less than 10 mins. Its a total joke, the battery is large but if its not charged fully its useless.

We have the same issue with the Rangers at work, we have defeated the smart charge on all of them too because they wont start afer sitting for a few days.
 

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Maybe a dual battery setup would be beneficial.

Must be the DVD that drains it


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Maybe a dual battery setup would be beneficial.

Must be the DVD that drains it


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I think if you just charge the main battery properly you shouldn't need one. The previous owner installed a dual battery controller, he must of had batteries in his van as there are 2 Anderson plugs on the bar. When driving along the redarc turns off and doesn't charge the aux batteries because the alternator voltage drops below 12.4v (it's 12.1v when cruising). So even if I had the second battery the alternator voltage is so low it wouldn't charge it anyhow without this modification.
 

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What voltage is showing on the bottom left dial on your dash? One end is 8 volts and other is 18v.

Mine is just above centre, so assume this is 14v or 14.5v approx.

Anyone else?


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I have had the same trouble with my Redarc Smart solenoid. I have been measuring the voltage from the cigerette lighter and it frequently sits on 12.0v. The duel battery is rarely charging, resulting in warm beer all to often. I then added a 160w solar panel to the roof and it would charge the 2nd battery to 14.1V and then soon as I started the car the Redarc would link the batteries and very soon put both batteries back to 12.5V, again resulting in warm beer. After 24hrs parked in the garage. My final solution that is a success is to just run the 2nd battery in isolation from the starting battery. Once charged it will run the fridge for 3-4 days if parked in the garage. This way I just park the car outside in the sun every now and its all sorted.

I will definitely do the red wire snip and put it on a switch for winter. Great tip by the way, cheers!
 

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Just for info, I haven't driven for 3 days and I just put the multimeter on my battery and it was 12.39 volts, battery probably a year old. cheers!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What voltage is showing on the bottom left dial on your dash? One end is 8 volts and other is 18v.

Mine is just above centre, so assume this is 14v or 14.5v approx.

Anyone else?


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13v is the centre (18-8 = 10. 10/2=5. 8+5=13v) . Mine was always on the low side of the centre. When I first started the car it would go to 14v+ , but really quick drop to 12.1v.
 

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Oh! Mines always just above. I just assumed it was just over 14v at half way...


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I have had the same trouble with my Redarc Smart solenoid. I have been measuring the voltage from the cigerette lighter and it frequently sits on 12.0v. The duel battery is rarely charging, resulting in warm beer all to often. I then added a 160w solar panel to the roof and it would charge the 2nd battery to 14.1V and then soon as I started the car the Redarc would link the batteries and very soon put both batteries back to 12.5V, again resulting in warm beer. After 24hrs parked in the garage. My final solution that is a success is to just run the 2nd battery in isolation from the starting battery. Once charged it will run the fridge for 3-4 days if parked in the garage. This way I just park the car outside in the sun every now and its all sorted.

I will definitely do the red wire snip and put it on a switch for winter. Great tip by the way, cheers!
Yup, my radar detector doubles as a volt meter and it is (was) on 12.1 all the time. As I mentioned Nissan even replaced the alternator to try to fix this problem but it didn't make any difference. They could have saved themselves hundreds of $ in labour by just getting the wire cutters out!
 

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Oh! Mines always just above. I just assumed it was just over 14v at half way...


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Interesting how you and bullo have different volts to me and Virginia. What year is yours?
 

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2012


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November built 2012, seems strange that they are all different. Actually when driving my volt meter stays just a fraction over the middle line. As mentioned previously that must be about 13 and a bit volts. cheers!:)
 
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