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Testing the brushes like this
I have continuity between the pairs, and isolated from the other brushes.

Looking at the fields inside the motor housing, should they be joined together where the F1and F2 bolts come through?
I'm not sure so I looked at my old stuffed 4.6hp motor and it isn't joined here. Don't see why it should be either, seemed counter intuitive in the simple electronic mind of myself?
 

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I have tried in opposite direction and get same result, tested continuity on armature and there is none between centre shaft and copper surface.
 

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I don't have a growler, in case anyone was wondering.
I have a growler and don't mind using it, the misses get the most enjoyment out of it but the pleasure is really all mine. Wouldn't recommend sticking your tongue any where near a 12 volt winch, would it be anything like a 9 volt battery ?.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Haha! Mate I was expecting a bite from Dronus!!!

I agree with the tongue, however. Tongues and winches are a combination that just can't end well.

Ok Sooty that connection between the field coils inside the motor IS meant to be there. Mate I'd love to tell you why, but it would be BS coz I'd have to make it up, my knowledge peters out about there, but I looked at photos of the one I took apart and it is the same as yours (and works!).

Mate you've checked the armature and commutator for shorts, checked brush housing for shorts, not getting hot at any of the terminals? Mate I feel really bad but I'm running out of ideas and hate to feel like I've let you down. I'll have a word to my sparkies at work tomorrow and get back to you, unless someone else can help out beforehand.

I can't give you the exact resistances to expect in the fields, I know it's not much because it is such big copper winding. I know the copper strips in the commutator should have continuity to one roughly opposite but not to adjacent ones, which is why I had suggested to clean out the gap between with a small flat blade screwdriver, to make sure there's no crap in there. But again, yours is new so that's not likely to be it.

Any chance your armature from 4.6 would fit in there just to see if it's a faulty armature? Obviously it will be too short but should still spin, just for a couple of seconds to see if it goes. Just thinking out loud.

Really sorry mate I'll keep trying and see what I can find out.
 

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Looking at the fields inside the motor housing, should they be joined together where the F1and F2 bolts come through?
I'm not sure so I looked at my old stuffed 4.6hp motor and it isn't joined here. Don't see why it should be either, seemed counter intuitive in the simple electronic mind of myself?
Did some research and as it is series/parallel wound this is normal. I believe it may be the back of the brushes shorting out on the housing, they are damn close to the top of the cardboard liner and look like they could miss it if not really manipulated into a non-conductive space.
 

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On another note, this winch has been used without the rope tensioned as tight as it could have been. Rope has pulled in to lower layers and was a bugger to get it out.
Interesting that you mention this. I find it impossible to tension the rope enough to stop it pulling into the first layer following the spooling instructions(10 wraps put on and tidied up by hand before using the car brakes and winching in. Anything over 3 wraps wont let the start tension enough to stop the rope sinking.
 

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Thanks heaps for the assitance Leethal, apologies for highjacking the thread a bit. I eventually got the motor to spin :) Hopefully it works once I assemble the whole winch this time, take 2!
 

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Haha! Mate I was expecting a bite from Dronus!!!

Mate you've checked the armature and commutator for shorts, checked brush housing for shorts, not getting hot at any of the terminals? Mate I feel really bad but I'm running out of ideas and hate to feel like I've let you down. I'll have a word to my sparkies at work tomorrow and get back to you, unless someone else can help out beforehand.
The terminals were getting quite hot actually? I burnt my finger on one, I'm pretty sure it was the brushes shorting would that cause the heat? or is there something else?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hey Sooty, I was going to ask about the brushes, I assumed you had checked them also while they were still attached to the motor housing. Yes if a terminal gets hot enough to burn, and it's not due to pulling the car up the widow maker for 5 minutes, there is a short in there. The armature terminal WILL generally get hotter than the two field terminals, but should take a while to build up heat.

If you put it back together and it works ok, hopefully the terminals will be normal temp. Would be interesting to stick an inductive ammeter on it under no load and see how many amps it draws.

Please let us know how it goes, hope it's spot on :)
 

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Warn winch motor rebuild

Sorry for digging deep, i need to thank Lee for posting this. It had helped me while overhauling my winch motor after 10 Years. Gears weren't a problem, all greased now like your photos *above. Between your thread and this PDF*https://www.rolo4x4.com.br/manual-4x4/26/manual-de-servicos.html

Free spool worked a charm, we're back in business! *:bananada:

The motor on the other hand has been aright pain in the arse! Long story short, I ended up breaking one of the welds between a bolt/terminal and the coil! Therefore hasn't run since stripping it a rebiulding the motor! After a few days head scratching over ideas, tonight I came up with an idea and crimped a terminal ring (terminology) to a 2-3" long piece of copper wire, originally from the pink/clear speaker wire from JB HIFI.*

I took the terminal ring and connected it under the head of the bolt, against a engine casing. I then soldered the other bare end to the end of the coil that was previously welded to the bold head itself.

Using your photo below to point out the coils in the drum casing are the coils I'm revering to in this post:



After cooling and bolting the coil back in place, I connected power and the motor ran beautifully. I'm sorry I cannot provide photos as I was have a Zen experience/extended moment and bolted it all back together with gas set goo to water proof it somewhat! After a reprint once try will seal the deal! ;)

So thanks again lee for your previous efforts helping all out with an otherwise daunting (to some) task!*

BTW I'm working on a what looks like an older motor these days, here is a pic of it so not to cause confusion with the newer one used these days:

http://galleryplus.ebayimg.com/ws/web/390721337933_1_0_1/1000x1000.jpg

I hope this helps other with the same motor as I have! The armature is straight forward and very similar to the one used in the Lees original post!
 

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Warn XD900 alternative winch motor rebuild/repair

Sorry for digging deep, i need to thank Lee for posting this. It had helped me while overhauling my winch motor after 10 Years. Gears weren't a problem, all greased now like your photos *above. Between your thread and this PDF*

https://www.rolo4x4.com.br/manual-4x4/26/manual-de-servicos.html

Free spool worked a charm, we're back in business! *:bananada:

The motor on the other hand has been aright pain in the arse! Long story short, I ended up breaking one of the welds between a bolt/terminal and the coil! Therefore hasn't run since stripping it a rebiulding the motor! After a few days head scratching over ideas, tonight I came up with an idea and crimped a terminal ring (terminology) to a 2-3" long piece of copper wire, originally from the pink/clear speaker wire from JB HIFI.*

I took the terminal ring and connected it under the head of the bolt, against a engine casing. I then soldered the other bare end to the end of the coil that was previously welded to the bold head itself.

Using your photo below to point out the coils in the drum casing are the coils I'm revering to in this post:



After cooling and bolting the coil back in place, I connected power and the motor ran beautifully. I'm sorry I cannot provide photos as I was have a Zen experience/extended moment and bolted it all back together with gas set goo to water proof it somewhat! After a reprint once try will seal the deal! ;)

So thanks again lee for your previous efforts helping all out with an otherwise daunting (to some) task!*

BTW I'm working on a what looks like an older motor these days, here is a pic of it so not to cause confusion with the newer one used these days:



I hope this helps other with the same motor as I have! The armature is straight forward and very similar to the one used in the Lees original post!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Good on ya MQTray; that link you posted to Warn's service instructions, I've never seen that so good to have a read, I learnt a few things off that too.

Glad the thread has helped a few people.
 

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Ok you need to paint the inside of the motor housing with the red oxide paint. You generally will not have to remove the field windings from the housing, which is the four torx screws on the outside (only two fields on the older magnum motors). Also paint in the end housing, and the brush housing.


You can also paint the armature, but it's important to tape up the copper section on the end first. The copper end section needs a light sanding to take it back to shiny copper for good contact. See the little black lines between each copper section at the end? With a small flat blade screw driver you need to give each one a scrape to make sure it's free of debris.
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I found this article extremely helpful and am in the process of rebuilding my winch.

One part I am confused with. When you say you can paint the armature but tape up the copper section, it looks like you didn't do this in your first pic, but in the second pic, its not painted at all. Am I missing something.

Which part am I supposed to paint, and which part am I supposed to tape up ?

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hi mate, sorry should have worded it a bit better. In the second pic, it's not painted yet, but was about to be.

Don't paint the part I am scraping between the copper lines in the second pic. Basically don't paint the part the brushes touch so they get good electrical contact.

The wider diametre bit closer to the windings it doesn't matter either way.

In the first pic, that part that touches the brushes is not painted, but the pic is from a bigger angle than I should have, hard to see it.

Does that make sense? If not I'll take a pic of one at home later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Just had a quick look mate, all looks perfectly salvageable.

As long as armature doesn't smell too burnt, I'm sure it will all scrub up fine!
 
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