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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, I have a 91 GQ 3L EFI petrol (RB30). I have already fitted a Safari Snorkel but the issue i have now when going through either deep puddles or small ones fast on the road i get water around the plugs and even in the dizzy sometimes and its a pain having to get the compressor out all the time to blow out the water.
Any ideas as to how i can stop this would be great, i had an idea to make some sort of rubber disc to fit around the plug leads to try and seal the hole and some sort of sheet metal sheild around the dizzy, any other ideas would be great.

Cheers,
Pat
 

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vacuum hose into the dizzy, when you go in water bleed some comressed air in.
use good quality leads.
 

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mines a 4.2 efi.
i sealed the distributor with some rtv... very small amount- i do want to get it off again. pluged the two holes in the bottom and ran a breather line to firewall.

i found plug leads to be ok but i did put i little dielectric grease in the boots.

hope this helps.goodluck
 

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You can add an o-ring under the dizzy cap. The biggest problem seems to be the breather holes in the back of the dizzy housing. I drilled mine out to 6mm and pressed in some 1/4 steel bundy tubes. Connected these to some rubber hoses to the snorkel. Seems OK so far.
 

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Ah commen problem. I've been to scared to take mine through a decent puddle. Where do you get the bundy tubes? Never heard of em before.
 

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I used a spare piece of tube from the engine bay, originally was part of the front diff breather pipe into the inner guard. (Which now also goes into the snorkel) You can get them from some auto shops, generally the smaller, more useful ones!!! The pipe I used was 1/4" (6.1mm)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanx for all the ideas guys.

There is already an o ring on the dizzy cap standard on the RB30 but there is a breather in the cap which is how the water gets in i think but i have a new cap in the shed that doesnt have the breather in it, on it goes! Also i think i'm due for new leads/plugs anyway.

I was just a little embaressed when i was out wheeling the other weekend with a hilux, triton & a ranger and I had to snatch the triton out of the hole so he could drain his floor pans out and then i went to show them up(water went over the bonnet) and i did even running on only about 4 cyliners but then spent the next half an hour drying out the dizzy and leads while they laughed at me.
 

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It usually happens if you stop on the other side of the water hole when all the steam builds up. if you use silicone spray around all your leads and around you wiring it seems to help but dont stop on the other side of the water whole if you can, drive around a little to get rid of the steam. the dizzy is usually the problem in larger water crossings. seal up the dizzy as best you can. A little bit of heat proof silicone around the base of the vacume advance diaphram wouldnt go astray.

IE I wouldnt blow compressed air into the vacume advance diaphram as you may create a leak and its a pain in the ass to find a new one.

There is a place called Dual Fuel Services that sells exchange items for around $75 to save any of you the hasle in finding one.
 

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I had mine in a puddle this arvo that came up above my bonnet and door windows, i am very surprised i had no problems with how it's running... onyl problem now though is that my OIL light is permanently on, any ideas what's causing that?
 

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Checked your oil? Lol. Also check your oil pressure sender unit, sounds like you've got water in it causing a short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had mine in a puddle this arvo that came up above my bonnet and door windows, i am very surprised i had no problems with how it's running... onyl problem now though is that my OIL light is permanently on, any ideas what's causing that?
Sounds like water in the oil preasure sender which is near the starter on the drivers side. even if the sender is stuffed they are cheap i have already changed mine due to a leak and its the same one that what was in my old 2.8 GU i think it was about $30 or $40 dont remember.
 

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My dizzy seems to be ok( touch wood) it's more the farkin sneaky crank angle sensor boot that I get the water for some reason. As said in other posts, quick rub with some Vaseline lol normally will do the trick. Lol.

Once I was stopped for 2 hours trying to work out where the water was and as said for me it's always the CAS boot.

Good luck
 

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To date I have not had an issue with mine, I have been through bonnet deep running water and had no issues. Might be luck, but the dizzy is up high on the RB30's.
 

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I have the carby, still, & I used to have huge probs when I 1st bought it, it turned out to be cracks in the leads. I got a set of Condomadore VL high performance 8mm leads & haven't had any probs since. I turned the breather so it pointed down, as it was pointing up, taped up the CAS boot as well.





I did this with no probs except a lot of steam, I just let it idle till no more steam, then turned it off & on again. Oh & no snorkel but the pic does look worse than what it actually was, just a small bit of water over the bonnet & that was it. :D
 

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Summary on tips for waterproofing RB30

Had my RB30 in a few big puddles this weekend and lost two cylinders. Ugh. Crapping my paints hoping I'd make it back to the bitumen..... Turned out to be 10-15ml of water in the dizzy. Dried it out and back on the road.

So I'm on this thread picking up tips.
- breather hose from dizzy to snorkel
- breather lines on the diffs
- dielectric grease on the spark plug boots
- tape up the boot on the crank angle sensor

Anything else??

Thanks for the great forum
 
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