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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After blowing a relatively new Tigerz11 winch at less than 12 months old and haveing had problems over the years with the electrics of a few different electric winches I have decided to weither go Hydraulic or PTO. I can't find a PTO winch so it looks like Hydraulic.

Has anybody had any experiences with them?

What about the Ox Winch by TJM?
 

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I have a mate with a hydraulic Mile Marker. Slow as a wet week but pull all day up anything. I understand that improving the power steering pump can make them quicker.

Greg
 

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slow unless you run a seperate pump, not advisable to run from your steering pump, as you'll be replacing them quiet frequently and will also afect steering while winching

personaly i can't fault the 3 or 4 warn high mounts I have had over the years only trouble I have ever had is few months back after winching myself then 3 other patrols and a zook out of a track with a very very steep exit the out solinoids packed it in

3 out of the four have been very well used second hand jobs, and just waiting on delivery of my first brand new unit, the one that packed the soliniods in, after that I rebuilt it electrically and the brake side of it at a cost of $1'000 including upgrading the motor from the 4.5hp to the high out put 6hp only trouble now is can't seem to keep wire rope up to it, looks like I'll have to go some new 12mm wire rope, as I won't run synthetic
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am over the issue of solenoids packing it in and after winching for about an hour on the weekend, running out of battery and still need to recover I want something that will nbever let me down. Tell me a nerw diesel that won't start unless taken in water, and if that happens it is a tow away job in anycase.
 

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I am over the issue of solenoids packing it in and after winching for about an hour on the weekend, running out of battery and still need to recover I want something that will nbever let me down. Tell me a nerw diesel that won't start unless taken in water, and if that happens it is a tow away job in anycase.
all wiches have there pros & cons, and anything off the self is still going to need beefing up, be it Electric, Hydraulic, PTO, that is if you want a winch that isn't going to be likely to let you down
 

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The only winch that will work continuous even if the engine is stopped is a hydraulic winch. once the engine stops, you just slip the handle in the hand pump which sits next to the drivers seat and start pumping.

TRev
 

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The only winch that will work continuous even if the engine is stopped is a hydraulic winch. once the engine stops, you just slip the handle in the hand pump which sits next to the drivers seat and start pumping.

TRev
....and a hand winch, infact, it would work with no engine or hydraulics in the vehicle ;-)
 

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Have you ever tried using a hand winch. its easier just letting a tojo pull you out :rolleyes:

TRev
Wash your mouth out!!! ;)

I've used one a few times and, yes, they are hard work but very reliable and versitile.
I now have the electric for ease too but I take both as I often travel with just my vehicle.

I do find it funny how some people discard the idea of a hand winch because they are hard work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Does anyone know of anyone who syill makes a PTO. And for the record the hydraulic ones don't blow the power steering box if set up correctly I am led to believe, i.e. no more work as they switch pressures when both power steering and winch are used at the same time so pump pressure does not exceed manufacturer.
 

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After doing quite a bit of flow testing on PS pumps, it is surprising that most seem to be able to be modified to give about the same flow rates. Pressures and flow rates can be dramatically increased from standard without damage, you just have to know what your doing ;)

Nissans are lucky, as we have the benefit of the HICAS style pump at our disposal
. These have a piggyback pump on the rear, generally used to run the rear steer. This can be reconfigured using a 2position DCV to change priority pump flow of the main pump from the steering circuit to the winch circuit for EG. and then use the smaller pump for steering. this would allow a full 2.5-3.5GPM to the winch and ~0.5-1gpm to the steering, which would be ample in a winching situation!! (or could be combined for BIG flow and used in conjunction with a priority flow circuit).

just gotta think outside the square


Just for some more useless tech info - generally a 4-6HP (electrical HP) dc winch motor will only put out ~2-2.75 mechanical HP. This is evident when comparing stall torque figures and other data. A well setup hyd PS pump can draw 2.5-8HP and deliver (including losses) 2-5hp. All this data is easily accountable once you start doing REAL winch load tests. Once most electrical winchs start pulling a TRUE 9000lb they are very similar in speed ~2-3m/min and the hydraulics are also around that speed as well - BUT the hydraulic will do it all day, whereas most electrical systems can't sustain 350+amps continious for very long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Quote "Just for some more useless tech info"

This is definately not useless tech info but the stuff we all love keep it up.

PS just heard from the distributor of my Tigerz11 winch 12000lb which was exactly 12 months old on the day it packed up. Will keep in touch on what is wrong, he says it is the brake and can be fixed easily?? What has happened is the motor is running, it is in gear but not pulling the drum!!
 

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Quote "Just for some more useless tech info"

This is definately not useless tech info but the stuff we all love keep it up.

PS just heard from the distributor of my Tigerz11 winch 12000lb which was exactly 12 months old on the day it packed up. Will keep in touch on what is wrong, he says it is the brake and can be fixed easily?? What has happened is the motor is running, it is in gear but not pulling the drum!!
from your description, it doesn't sound like the brake at all? We have a T11 2 speed so bear with me as i am just going off that design.

The motor is long and the front section (drum end) has a sprung loaded electromagnetic brake in it, which "T"s off the feild wiring to pull the brake into the OPEN state. the shaft then goes through the housing to a coupling to convert from drive tang to hex drive for the LOOOOOONG hex drive shaft which goes all the way through the gearbox section of the planetry's and then drives back (so to speak) to the drum. IMO if the motor is spinning then the problem is definately not the brake!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well the motor is definately spinning, the drum is not but it is locked in. So I am awaiting another email back, looks like will have the vehicle back tomorrow and will do the winch over Xmas and keep you posted. Your description would be exactly right as described, that way when voltage is low the unit brakes and stops rewind of cable, is that correct!
 

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I have a 12 000 pound Mile Marker hydraulic winch which I imported from the US about 4 years ago. I used to use Warn winches but found they would drain my batteries far too quick or blow solenoids.
The hydraulic winch will pull all day long with no hassles. The Mile Marker is a 2 speed winch and the high gear pulls bloody fast. The only problem is that it's max line pull is reduced in this gear so it's only good for respooling or when you're not stuck to your rails in mud. The low gear is fairly slow but if you increase your revs to increase flow through the pump it pulls at a speed which I think is comparable to most electric winches (excluding the high mount of course).
As for steering while winching, it's really not an issue. In fact you barely notice it. The winch will automatically re-route fluid to the steering when you turn the wheel and all that happens is the winch slows a little.
Fitting them is also a piece of cake and anyone who can hold a spanner and has half a brain can do it.
Of course a hydraulic winch won't work if your engine isn't running. But how long do you think your batteries will be able to sustain 400 amps without the alternator going? If your lucky, long enough to get you out of the s**t but if not you'll still need a backup.
Electric or Hydraulic, both have their pros and cons. Cost, speed, reliability, ease of use, etc. Weigh them all up and see which best suits your needs.
 

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I had a (10,000lb) Ox hydraulic fitted to my 4.2 less than a week after I bought it (11½ yrs ago)...

Got it mainly as "insurance" (better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it ;)), since SWMBO and I do a lot of remote area travel, most of the time solo vehicle, and usually towing....

So far, I've managed to avoid any "sticky" situations, and have never had to use the winch "in anger" :)

It does however, get used quite a bit when I'm cutting the winter firewood, and I often find it preferable to move logs into a more accessable position so I can cut safely (and not have to lug blocks of wood through the bushes).. ;)
For this reason alone, it's worth it's weight in gold, and as already stated, as long as the engine's running, it'll pull non-stop for as long as needed.. speed is not an issue for me, and in any case, a few extra revs (hand throttle) takes care of that :)

Standard PS pump appears to handle the load without complaint, fluid stays clean, so heat does not appear to be an issue.. I think I've changed the fluid once in the life of the vehicle, and that was when I had the engine out to replace the RMS, so it seemed like a good idea at the time ;)

Would I swap it for an electric? .. In a word, No! (YMMV)

:cheers:
 

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Gascoyd, some good advise here. How about a install thread in DIY section, if you go hydraulic?

Or DGR01,Bad Mudder or Ed do you have any pic's for a build up thread?
 
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