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When the CC AA BB marks all line up properly you need to get a screwdriver in through the first hole on the three piece gear and use another large flat screwdriver to the top on the teeth of the scissor gear at pump side (outside gear on the 3 piece gear) and you need to wind it back and retension it a little then you should be able to get the screwdriver or drill bit in through the second hole and the trick now is to be ready and remove it and put more tension on the 3 piece gear to wind it back until you can get the screwdriver in through three holes on the scissor gear!! This will only work once you have the CC marks in the right spot and engine timing must be correct in order to achieve this!! It does take quite a bit of force to get it back but once you have it wound back you should be able to slide the screwdriver (small one) through the three holes on that scissor gear now to hold them in place until you fit the injection pump main large sprocket that then mates up to that scissor gear !! Again key thing is making sure the CC marks line up bang on!!

A lot of lads reckon that you will never quiten the engine drivetrain (timing gear noise) completly unless you remove the scissor gear completly and lock it properly but i think that's nonsense and it can be done fine by hand in the vehicle!! I have done it a good number of times now.
 

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2001 patrol zd30 auto,converter lock up kit and extra cooler, ecpt remap, nads, carter 4601
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Is there any getting it back from this stage? I have spun it over hundreds of times and can't even see a hole in the rear of the gears I marked it to confirm it was staying in the same place and spun it many more times. It must have been apart prior to myself owning it and has been like this for 200,000kms of me driving nd hasn't affected it
521604
 

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As i said the timing of the cams and lower end need to be 100percent first and you need to wind back the scissor gear before those holes will show up!

I'm guessing you didn't even try to pretension the scissor gear as i explained above!? :rolleyes:
 

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2001 patrol zd30 auto,converter lock up kit and extra cooler, ecpt remap, nads, carter 4601
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As i said the timing of the cams and lower end need to be 100percent first and you need to wind back the scissor gear before those holes will show up!

I'm guessing you didn't even try to pretension the scissor gear as i explained above!? :rolleyes:
I haven't pulled the pump out yet this is as it has been the whole time I have owned the car. The front of the gear must be right because the cc-c is lining up when TDC and it has been this way for 200,000 of me driving so the get the gear correct now do I have to pull the gear case off to correct and make sure the rest line up or can i spin the rest when i get the pump out and line it up with the front? Sorry if this comes across silly this is my first go at anything with this set up.
 

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I haven't pulled the pump out yet this is as it has been the whole time I have owned the car. The front of the gear must be right because the cc-c is lining up when TDC and it has been this way for 200,000 of me driving so the get the gear correct now do I have to pull the gear case off to correct and make sure the rest line up or can i spin the rest when i get the pump out and line it up with the front? Sorry if this comes across silly this is my first go at anything with this set up.
My suspicion would be that the pump has been out before and the outer leaf of the scissor gear has released its tension and moved one tooth. If you refer to the photos in the previous posts you can see it half a tooth out. I think your fix here is to remove the pump gear and then with a screwdriver or bar of some sort to lever the outer leaf clockwise until the three holes are aligned then insert a pin , drill or bolt. If you use a bolt make very sure it is the specified length and to the correct torque. I believe you have been operating one tooth off on your injection timing all along. The timing mark is on the outer leaf and unless the three sections of the gear are aligned the timing will not be correct. the main gear and the inner leaf are engaged with the rest of the gear train, it is only the outer that can move when you remove the pump gear only. Getting the gear elements back in alignment is what Dan was trying to convey in his recent post. I won't be offended if you seek second opinions on my suggestions.
I used to post as old ed but there has been an unsolicited "upgrade" and as usual things are no longer the same.
 

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2001 patrol zd30 auto,converter lock up kit and extra cooler, ecpt remap, nads, carter 4601
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I could almost gauretee that is the case it has definitely been put together wrong. If the scissor gear timing is out wouldn't the valve timing be out running off the pump or maybe not enough to notice?? The only thing that would make me question it is the cc on the scissor gear lines up when its spot on TDC and spinning the outer gear would move the cc off mark when TDC if the middle gear is on the crank 🤔. Or am I over thinking it?
 

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I could almost gauretee that is the case it has definitely been put together wrong. If the scissor gear timing is out wouldn't the valve timing be out running off the pump or maybe not enough to notice?? The only thing that would make me question it is the cc on the scissor gear lines up when its spot on TDC and spinning the outer gear would move the cc off mark when TDC if the middle gear is on the crank 🤔. Or am I over thinking it?
If as I suspect the outer section of the scissor gear is "floating" then the fact that the c-cc marks align means very little. I would expect that if you aligned the timing marks and checked for TDC you would find it to be slightly off. I think I'm back to being old ed.
 

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If as I suspect the outer section of the scissor gear is "floating" then the fact that the c-cc marks align means very little. I would expect that if you aligned the timing marks and checked for TDC you would find it to be slightly off. I think I'm back to being old ed.
it seems I'm still old eddie
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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My suspicion would be that the pump has been out before and the outer leaf of the scissor gear has released its tension and moved one tooth. If you refer to the photos in the previous posts you can see it half a tooth out. I think your fix here is to remove the pump gear and then with a screwdriver or bar of some sort to lever the outer leaf clockwise until the three holes are aligned then insert a pin , drill or bolt. If you use a bolt make very sure it is the specified length and to the correct torque. I believe you have been operating one tooth off on your injection timing all along. The timing mark is on the outer leaf and unless the three sections of the gear are aligned the timing will not be correct. the main gear and the inner leaf are engaged with the rest of the gear train, it is only the outer that can move when you remove the pump gear only. Getting the gear elements back in alignment is what Dan was trying to convey in his recent post. I won't be offended if you seek second opinions on my suggestions.
I used to post as old ed but there has been an unsolicited "upgrade" and as usual things are no longer the same.
20mm long 6mm dia bolt with 1mm thread pitch. Very cheap and it is the correct way to do it.
Don't use a drill bit!!! Apart from it being bad practice and generally rough as guts. You also risk internal damage. You will also need that particular drill bit later in the process to align the gear on the injector pump.
It definitely looks as if it has been apart before and the person didn't lock the gear. What Dan said works fine. You should never have to do it but unfortunately for others there are plenty of rough as guts home mechanics out there that think they know it all and stuff things up in the process. FYI same goes for the chain tensioner. If you don't push the tensioner lever downwards until the hole in the lever is aligned with the hole in the tensioner body then lock it in place with a 3mm drill bit. You will have issues once it's unbolted.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

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In reply to Doory #25 post.

In any case it don't matter if you are still driving it! The scissor gear is there to only quiten down the noise of the gears and to be honest i have seen a few patrols with no tension locked on that gear and i see hardly any differnce in noise!!! So long as it's timed 100percent it really don't matter... a lot may disagree with this but i say drive on and don't care now especially in your situation when you can't fix it..in extremely rare cases it can cause a tooth to break off but that is really rare and i have never heard of it.
If you need to do the pump though and the Patrol is currently not running i would deffo do the scissor gear up right on the reassembly.
 
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2001 patrol zd30 auto,converter lock up kit and extra cooler, ecpt remap, nads, carter 4601
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I had an iP code come up done blink code check and had 7 long and 7 short blinks thats why I was going to get pump done up it only done it once also had tps code and maf cleaned maf and didn't see anything for 1500kms only wanted to do it while I had head off fixing sandwich plate leak and this is what makes me think it was put together wrong!
521654
 

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Scissor Gear

Just noticed earlier criticism of my method of locking the scissor gear, so, let’s analyse this with a modicum of common sense, the situation within which I used this method is quite appropriate, if a moron was doing it every day for a month on the same vehicle, then yes I would agree, but, anyone tackling this complicated job is going to have some degree of expertise and may do it only once in their life so any risk is so negligible it really isn’t worth considering. The method suited me to a tee at the time and I’m someone who has been involved with engines and general engineering (which is what I am) and have worked on, helped design and improve extremely high speed food and drink packaging systems in many countries over the years, so I’m not a moron, I actually have a very good reputation among my engineering peers. My engineering experience started in the 60’s and it includes building many highly developed and tuned racing engines in my spare time, so I’ve been around the block a few times.

When/if I do this job again under the same circumstances I will do it exactly the same way and achieve the same result, perfection.

My 2 cents worth.
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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Scissor Gear

Just noticed earlier criticism of my method of locking the scissor gear, so, let’s analyse this with a modicum of common sense, the situation within which I used this method is quite appropriate, if a moron was doing it every day for a month on the same vehicle, then yes I would agree, but, anyone tackling this complicated job is going to have some degree of expertise and may do it only once in their life so any risk is so negligible it really isn’t worth considering. The method suited me to a tee at the time and I’m someone who has been involved with engines and general engineering (which is what I am) and have worked on, helped design and improve extremely high speed food and drink packaging systems in many countries over the years, so I’m not a moron, I actually have a very good reputation among my engineering peers. My engineering experience started in the 60’s and it includes building many highly developed and tuned racing engines in my spare time, so I’ve been around the block a few times.

When/if I do this job again under the same circumstances I will do it exactly the same way and achieve the same result, perfection.

My 2 cents worth.
I'm sorry but my opinion of your engineering ability / quality of has gone backwards. If you really think that what you did is ok for your car then fine. It's your car. Suggesting that other people should use this stupid method is farcical at best. I too have rebuilt many many engines for a living and can tell you right now that I have not and never will use such bad practices when working on engines. To recommend this to others that don't know better should so the same is downright the wrong thing to do.
Lets analyse what you did and the process you had to use to do the job.
"Even with the drill bit in there the gear moves out of alignment but not in a bad way, by putting side pressure on the drill you can align the gear teeth as shown in the next pic." - The gear is obviously not held in alignment by the drill bit.
"Teeth aligned but hard on the fingers when your trying to get the gear to engaged." - Had to use a fair bit of force to realign it.
"I also found something on the bench to put the right amount of pressure on the drill to hold the teeth alignment so I could use 2 hands to wriggle the gear into place, it is a reasonably tight fit so you need to persevere." - Very obvious that this method does not align the gears well." - Even more obvious is that you were unable to successfully install the IP using the drill bit alone and also had to jam a old plumbing fitting in there to hold it in place before forcing the gears to mesh.
521728


When using the CORRECT method. You simply screw in a 20 x 6mm bolt and nip it up gently. The IP then slips straight out and the new one glides straight in without forcing anything as the gears are perfectly aligned because you did it the correct way...
All of this is because you refuse to take advice from people that may know more than you on the subject and certainly never ever admit that you were even close to incorrect on any subject ever. My 2 cents worth. Over and out...
 

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That is your opinion and I couldn't give a rats bum what you think of me, totally unimportant, end of story.
 

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Well I have the pump out and there is no tension on my scissor gear so its not an issue to me it car rattle around wherever it wants 😂 as long as im at TDC it will work i do have another question do I have to do anything with the plate on the side?
521758
 

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You said you have the pump out and there was no tension on the scissor gear but did you lock it prior to doing the job and removing the pump?? And if you did what were the steps you done to do it?

Thank god i don't be on forums much anymore because giving free advice is a time consuming thing and people really don't even read it half the time. :rolleyes::oops: In any case could you be a little more specific about what you done before you removed the pump.

There is no way to know if the scissor gear is locked or not when you are removing the pump unless you get all the timing marks spot on and then the three holes in the scissor gear should line up,then you lock it with a bolt. THEN remove the injector pump! It is very hard to diagnose this until you do this.

Anyway, good luck with it!
 

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No never said that. I still had pump in and was trying to line holes up to pull it out.
Anyway I got it sorted someone had put it together wrong and put timing marks together with no tension on gear so I marked main (mid) of scissor gear with a paint pen and put tension on and slip a drill bit through and put pump in so the cc on front of gear is now off but tdc and pump are correct it is going well again the picture of the gears in earlier posts helped me see how it all worked. thanks for the helpful advice everyone
 

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No never said that. I still had pump in and was trying to line holes up to pull it out.
Anyway I got it sorted someone had put it together wrong and put timing marks together with no tension on gear so I marked main (mid) of scissor gear with a paint pen and put tension on and slip a drill bit through and put pump in so the cc on front of gear is now off but tdc and pump are correct it is going well again the picture of the gears in earlier posts helped me see how it all worked. thanks for the helpful advice everyone
it's always good to hear that someone worked through a problem to a positive conclusion.
 
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