Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Blokes,
Got some questions. I wanna get more pull from my 2.8td gq. How do I do it. Firstly can I fit a intercooler from the gu. And how do you get more boost from your turbo. I understand that by pushing more fuel in you gotta get more gasses out so by putting in a 3 inch exhaust will this type of setup work. Also are the mods legal in qld, not that 5 inch lift is legal, and can a novice enthusiast with a little bit of knowledge be able to do it.
Thanks Guys.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
2,406 Posts
Hey mate..the 2.8 ain't the best platform to extract any reasonable power from..it's a slow old girl. Maybe better to save your pennies and trade into a td42.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
206 Posts
Hey mate..the 2.8 ain't the best platform to extract any reasonable power from..it's a slow old girl. Maybe better to save your pennies and trade into a td42.
That's poo. It won't be a stump puller from idle like the big diesel, but install a big intercooler, big exhaust and add enough fuel to move but keep the exhaust gas temperature below 600 and everyone has a good day.

You can fit an intercooler from a GU, though you will have to swap the intake manifold for a GU as well. The GU manifold has a smaller plenum volume, but has the inlet as a 90* fitting on the top of the manifold instead of straight down towards the turbocharger. I would recommend a larger front mount intercooler, but it's entirely your call. It's not hard to fit either if you are handy with a sawzall.

You have a GQ by the sounds of it, so you'll have a Garrett T25. I happily made 20psi on mine in North Queensland with a large 600x400x100 intercooler, but the turbo is getting fairly unhappy by that stage and your charge air is HOT. The exhaust manifold has a T25 flange though, so a ball bearing T28 from the S13/S14/S15 Silvia will fit or a ball bearing GT2554. Don't just whack a turbo on there though, head over to squirrelpf.com and use their turbocharger calculator to see how a potential turbocharger choice may or may not work for you by reading the compressor map.

Also, the redline is close to 5000rpm for a reason as the RD doesn't make much power down low, it just doesn't have the displacement. The RD has a small stroke by comparison to some other small form factor diesels and has an overhead cam and a rock solid rotating assembly. If it can breath, it will breath all the way up to 4500rpm.

Enjoy your Poo-troll!

Cheers,
Mick
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
486 Posts
Gday
mine has FMIC, boost is 13psi, 3" exhaust. When it was going it went well. Powered up hills and would cruise at 110kph no issues. The saying about them loving to rev is true. In fact I was quite surprised at how much they love to rev. The sweet spot on my motor was 3000rpms. It would do this all day, my Trol is a country highway mile eater as we live in the W.A. Wheat belt. Its no TD42 but don't let that worry you, I reckon you will be surprised about what this engine is capable of.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Mick and Maysy1. I got a little lost with some of the terminology but I get the gist. Once I get the 3'' exhaust and put on an intercooler do you know where I should take it to increase the boost and tune the fuel pump. I live on the Gold Coast.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
1,840 Posts
You could also do the very basics first and see how it goes put a snorkel if you don't have one, a K&N air filter or similar so it can draw more cooler air into the motor. Put a 2.5" or 2.75" exhaust on and get the boost wound up a few pounds and you should notice a reasonable difference you might even be happy with that.
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Batts thanks for your input. I heard the oil in k&n filters can mess with the turbo. I already have a k&n filter but don't know if I should put it in. I have been told that you can buy a precharger I think they are called which fits over the filter like a sock. But I don't know for sure. I might start a thread on it.
Thanks Batts
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
206 Posts
Factory air filter actually isn't too bad, but the horrific bend on the turbocharger intake is a power robber. It is an S-bend but it is very flat right at the inlet to the turbo, and forces the air to make a harsh 90* turn. Replace that with some bends and alloy straight pipe. Regarding the oil on K&N filters it plays havoc with engines with a hotwire Mass Air Flow sensor. Not an issue with your old girl.

If you are getting your exhaust done, don't waste time and money going any smaller than three inches. Put a bit of boost in it and you will be moving a surprising amount of air. Also, no muffler. The RD sounds pretty damn sweet as an open pipe, not actually too loud but has an awesome low frequency growl but sounds like a Screamin' Jimmy 6v53 when you are right up in the rev range.

Regarding your boost and fuel questions, do a bit of a search on here for methods to increase overall fuel rate and adjust the boost compensator, or aneroid diaphragm. Do not make any changes to your fuel rate unless you have a method to measure the exhaust gas temperature! Scott's Rods make a great 3" exhaust for the 2.8 GQ that I fit myself in the driveway without too much drama, and you can order it with a bung for the pyrometer probe to measure Exhaust Gas Temperature.

Boost control is nice and easy, use a manual boost controller (boost tee) that is ball and spring. I ended up using a Turbosmart two stage boost controller so I could have factory boost and 22psi at the flick of a switch. Increase the boost and add fuel to suit, though ensure that when you are at wide open throttle in fourth gear up a hill you do not exceed 600 degrees Celsius after the turbocharger.

With fuel, there is a small screw with a flat head screwdriver slot that is locked in place with a locknut. This will adjust your maximum fuel delivery rate and will also increase your idle speed as it is adjusted. It may weep fuel after adjusting due to the rubber o-ring on the screw degrading. Doran's Diesel here in Townsville gave me an o-ring for free, nice lads. Undo the lock nut and adjust the screw with the motor running. Clockwise increased fuel delivery. You will need to re-adjust your idle set screw to compensate for the rise in idle speed. Don't go overboard with this screw, small adjustments (or do what I do and wind it all the way in until the motor starts to run away, back out by a 1/8 of a turn and spray water in it to keep it cool! But seriously please don't do that yet!)

If you undo the four screws on the top of the boost compensator (flat can on the top of the injector pump with a vacuum hose running from it to the compressor of the turbocharger) and remove the rubber diaphragm, a conical rod will come out with it. This conical rod is raised and lowered against a spring when the space above it is pressurized by the turbocharger. A governor pin rides against the conical rod so that when the rod is lowered, the pin can extend further and allow a high rate of fuel delivery. The spring sits on a rotating and indexed dial that can be wound in and out to adjust spring tension. This allows you to tune the rate of fuel delivery off boost for speed of turbocharger spool and smoke as well as on boost for wide open throttle power.

Until you get a firm grasp on tuning the motor please leave the factory pop-off valve in the intake manifold. A bit of a safety net that will release pressure at 15psi or thereabouts. But don't ride it as a way of boost control, it fails very easily when overused.

I know this may sound a bit confusing but search around, there are some cool picture tutorials around. Part of the joy of owning an old indirect injection mechanical diesel is learning how they work, and how you work with it. Keep it cold and well serviced and the RD will serve you well.

Cheers,
Mick
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
206 Posts
Oh, and a lift pump for fuel. Otherwise you will keep scratching your head wondering what that funny stumble at 1900, 2200, 2700, 3300 and 3900 rpm was.... Carburetor fuel pumps are perfect, six to eight psi of fuel pressure into a Bosch VE pump makes them quite happy and will bleed off excess pressure above 6psi. It will also advance the fuel pump timing by a few degrees for a pony or two.

Cheers,
Mick
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
1,840 Posts
Hey Batts thanks for your input. I heard the oil in k&n filters can mess with the turbo. I already have a k&n filter but don't know if I should put it in. I have been told that you can buy a precharger I think they are called which fits over the filter like a sock. But I don't know for sure. I might start a thread on it.
Thanks Batts[/QUOT
It might play up with a modern motor if you over oil it and it was running down the sides I can't see it affecting an old troll. Unless you have an on board computer with senses for everything good luck any way.
 

·
Registered
Nissan
Joined
·
7 Posts






This is how i am doing it on my Y60 patrol motor;) just needs the bends and pipes now;)
The Nissan Laurel C32 that the motor sits in goes very well with the Patrol motor:) I have grinded the fuel pin some mm , wounded up the fuel screw a littel and 1 Bar of boost;)
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
387 Posts
That about the coolest thing I've seen for a while
rd28 powered laurel.
Any where i can read more / view videos of it Mr Norwayy?
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
206 Posts
Hi Mick,
when you got time can you explain what the lift pump is?
tah mate.
For sure man. A low pressure pump that picks up fuel from the tank and pumps it to the inlet of the high pressure diesel injector pump. Place a lift pump inline with the existing diesel line. You will not need to modify the return.

The Bosch VE and VP injector pumps were designed to have positive pressure on their inlet orifice, but they can also draw fuel with negative pressure (self-priming). But when drawing fuel over a long line to the tank, sometimes it cannot draw enough fuel and the power delivery will hesitate. Feels a lot like surging under throttle when the bowls of a carb aren't filling.

I used a Carter Black carb fuel pump which has a internal regulator for 7psi of fuel pressure with a filter on the inlet side. So the hose layout goes from the tank outlet > pre-filter inlet > pre-filter outlet > fuel pump > underbody hardline > fuel filter > injector pump. The pre-filter is just to stop particulates from wrecking the pump. Any petrol fuel filter with 3/8" barbs for inlet and outlet will do fine.

Cheers,
Mick
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top