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nissan
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Have stumbled across a site that raises some interesting questions regarding the choice of oil we put in our vehicles. The article does not discriminate between brands but provides you an understanding of how different oil work eg. Full syn, semi sin, multigrade, mineral, 5w 40 or 0W 30 or 15W 40 etc so you can make the right choice per application.

Be interested to here peoples thoughts on this. Their are 9 pages. You will need to read all 9 to get the FULL picture.

Repeat - this is not about brands but selecting the right oil.

Welcome

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Question on my mind is, providing you have good oil pressure and oil temps, is their a point where oil can be too thin?
 

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I have always wanted to use a synthetic oil but was afraid because a lot of people say that it would cause leaks on an older engine. The article didnt deny that, but i think i would be willing to give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Their is HPR Sin Diesel and HPR 5w40 oils out their that would probably be less harmful everytime you start your vehicle. Question still remains why aren't these thinner oils recommended for a TD42 and other similar engines if they have the same lubricating properties? It is the oil pump on the older engines?
 

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96 TD42 GQ2 wagon
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Their is HPR Sin Diesel and HPR 5w40 oils out their that would probably be less harmful everytime you start your vehicle. Question still remains why aren't these thinner oils recommended for a TD42 and other similar engines if they have the same lubricating properties? It is the oil pump on the older engines?
because the first number only has meaning if ones engine is at say -5degc or colder, the first and the second numbers are generated using entirely different methods.

people get sucked in, it's an urban myth that these lower first numbers lubricate their engines better on startup actually if seriouse the first number being so low means they more often than not they may be pouring a **** oil into their car relative to an oil with a closer difference ie 15/30.

here in Oz, not siberia/north america/canada/highest AU snowfields in winter etc forget about the first number but pay attention to the difference in the numbers on the bottle if you would like an oil with more actual oil and less additives so one gets full time superior protection and robustness against shear and ultimately sludge.

The typical car in oz would need it parked overnight in the freezer for the 5wt oil in it to behave like a 5wt, instead at the temps the majority do start their car up here that 5wt will behave more like a 15wt but the technical trickery needed to give it the ultimate ability to be 5wt when only fully freezing degrades that oil relative to everyday 15 wt oils.

That HPR 5/40 seriously I couldn't in conscience use it here in Oz, mark it with the sign of the devil IMO

Aint marketing is just grand!!
 

· Grenade Master
GU4 05
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here in Oz, not siberia/north america/canada/highest AU snowfields in winter etc forget about the first number but pay attention to the difference in the numbers on the bottle if you would like an oil with more actual oil and less additives so one gets full time superior protection and robustness against shear and ultimately sludge.

Aint marketing is just grand!!
While article was over the top explaining things it appeared to be well reasoned I'm still not overly convinced by it. Is/was it a marketing exercise just to get us to buy expensive synthetic oils with low ratings or is it some truth in it. The only thing I was in agreement was the mention of long term storage of mineral oil. To satisfy my curiosity I'm going to try lower rated oil to see what will happen at the next oil change. I'll be honest this issue with ZD30 as to which bloody oil to actually use in it ****s me to tears. :headwall: Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
because the first number only has meaning if ones engine is at say -5degc or colder, the first and the second numbers are generated using entirely different methods.

people get sucked in, it's an urban myth that these lower first numbers lubricate their engines better on startup actually if seriouse the first number being so low means they more often than not they may be pouring a **** oil into their car relative to an oil with a closer difference ie 15/30.

here in Oz, not siberia/north america/canada/highest AU snowfields in winter etc forget about the first number but pay attention to the difference in the numbers on the bottle if you would like an oil with more actual oil and less additives so one gets full time superior protection and robustness against shear and ultimately sludge.

The typical car in oz would need it parked overnight in the freezer for the 5wt oil in it to behave like a 5wt, instead at the temps the majority do start their car up here that 5wt will behave more like a 15wt but the technical trickery needed to give it the ultimate ability to be 5wt when only fully freezing degrades that oil relative to everyday 15 wt oils.

That HPR 5/40 seriously I couldn't in conscience use it here in Oz, mark it with the sign of the devil IMO

Aint marketing is just grand!!
If you have a read, the question he puts up which is most valid for most is engine wear, at start up. Yes 5W40 has a very low cold start up rating and probably not required here in OZ, however the point he makes is that is does not thicken as much as it cools meaning viscosity is greater on start up. Optimum oil temp is 212F or 100C, this gives best engine protection, if you can get your oil up to temp quicker then you have minimised engine wear.

He also makes an interesting comment on snake oil (don't use it). Maybe I read it wrong however what interests me is that he says every engine is different and as the engine gets oilder the type of oil you use should change.

Marketing? I didn't see that he was pushing any particular product, he sounded like he might have owned an oil field or two with the cars he was driving but thought the information was a good bit of info providing it applies to all oil types which I believe it does.
 

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nissan
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Have stumbled across a site that raises some interesting questions regarding the choice of oil we put in our vehicles. The article does not discriminate between brands but provides you an understanding of how different oil work eg. Full syn, semi sin, multigrade, mineral, 5w 40 or 0W 30 or 15W 40 etc so you can make the right choice per application.

Be interested to here peoples thoughts on this. Their are 9 pages. You will need to read all 9 to get the FULL picture.

Repeat - this is not about brands but selecting the right oil.

Welcome

-------

Question on my mind is, providing you have good oil pressure and oil temps, is their a point where oil can be too thin?
Hi zoom, you might be interested in this thread as well , similar but explained with a different perspective :)

:cheers:
 

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96 TD42 GQ2 wagon
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560 Posts
If you have a read, the question he puts up which is most valid for most is engine wear, at start up. Yes 5W40 has a very low cold start up rating and probably not required here in OZ, however the point he makes is that is does not thicken as much as it cools meaning viscosity is greater on start up. Optimum oil temp is 212F or 100C, this gives best engine protection, if you can get your oil up to temp quicker then you have minimised engine wear.

He also makes an interesting comment on snake oil (don't use it). Maybe I read it wrong however what interests me is that he says every engine is different and as the engine gets oilder the type of oil you use should change.

Marketing? I didn't see that he was pushing any particular product, he sounded like he might have owned an oil field or two with the cars he was driving but thought the information was a good bit of info providing it applies to all oil types which I believe it does.

Yes it does, that's the point at our temperatures it's just as thick as say a 15wt oil, the only true difference is the one type of criteria used to obtain the 5wt specification.

A 5wt oil can very likely be thicker than a 15wt oil at 20degc (need to look at the proper specs of the oil first), the rulers (methods)used to measure the two numbers do not measure the same thing. The 5 relates to bench test that tests how easy a fluid that is "freezing" slides over it's self at a molecular level. The tests are chalk and cheese.
 
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