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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys I have a leaking passenger side inner hub seal. It is the second time it is has done it. The vehicle has been sitting in the shed for near on 2 years stationary and I've just got it back on the road again. I'm in two minds here, the seal could have gone hard in that time and started leaking again, or, the housing is bent slightly so that the axle is not dead centre inside the housing anymore. How can I determine if the housing is stuffed? I don't want to keep on changing hub seals as its a ***** of a job. I went to a tyre shop to get it checked on the wheel alignment machine and apparently it can't be done that way, the mechanic there told me you would need to pull the whole thing out and get it tested on a special machine, can't remember what it was called, but apparently there is none in Townsville anyway. Any ideas?
 

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The nutty professor
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your king pin bearings could be worn allowing movement , but you normally get wobbles from the front when that happens , and you would think the camber angle would tell you if the diff is bent or not
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks mate I will get an alignment done anyway then and then post up the printout to decipher the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok here is what I have found so far. I couldn't get a wheel alignment done because the wheel bearings were way too loose. And I mean loose, talking about 20-25mm of movement on the passenger wheel. I pulled it all apart and yes the bearings weren't tight enough but I kept going till I reached the axle seal and found this. You can see the damage on the left and right of the seal the metal lip is actually bent in these two places. Would the loose wheel bearings have caused this? Looks kinda like the axle shaft has been slapping back and forth against the seal. Oh, and is the seal in the correct way? I read somewhere on here that you put this seal on in the opposite way to what you would think. I'm going to order a seal kit and bearing kit anyway. Anyone bought through this ebay store?

Nissan Patrol GQ Front Axel Seal Kit NEW Hub 4x4 (eBay item 300451967278 end time 30-Nov-10 18:10:02 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats
 

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Seal seems to be in the correct way, because you want the lips of a seal to expand as they get pressure from the fluid trying to escape. As for housing.... are you sure your axle isn't bent? You wouldn't expect a bent housing to bend horizontally, you would expect more vertically.
 

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I changed my wheel and swivel bearings last week. Your seal is in right. Check the roller bearing in your stub axel and there should be a snap ring on the end of the axle. Looks like the axle might be floating around. Also when you side your axle in not to damage the seal by draging it through. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
put the axle shaft itself against a dial indicator gauge and its straight so no problems there. When I pulled the free wheeling hub off the snap ring that I think you are talking about was floating around in the bottom and not on the shaft itself so yes I think you are right and the axle has been bouncing around in there. Would explain the crazy wobble in the steering. I'm looking for kits to do the whole rebuild now, I don't think there is anything wrong with the housing anymore, I have a feeling the bearings were incorrectly installed last time. Anyone know a good place to buy a kit from?
 

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CBC bearings sell a good complete kit at good price, excellent quality bearings and seals.
 

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BORDERTREK 4X4 & FABRICATION
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or, the housing is bent slightly so that the axle is not dead centre inside the housing anymore. How can I determine if the housing is stuffed? ?
Put a straight edge under the long side of the diff up against it. If it doesn't sit flat the housing is banana'd. Most usually have a little bow in them though depending on past treatment of them. If it's really bad the front wheels camber will stick out like dogs balls and the axle shaft wont be square with the seal.
 

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Put a straight edge under the long side of the diff up against it. If it doesn't sit flat the housing is banana'd. Most usually have a little bow in them though depending on past treatment of them. If it's really bad the front wheels camber will stick out like dogs balls and the axle shaft wont be square with the seal.
My diff has the dogs balls. (not surprised really)
I'm going to truss it, repairable or start with a new one?

FYI my seal chewed out like yours because the snap ring on the end of the spline in the free wheeling hub came off.
 

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Have to agree with Lead foot, that is a great price.
The best I have seen for just the swivel hub kit is $190.
Normaly the wheel bearings are $80 a side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Have to agree with Lead foot, that is a great price.
The best I have seen for just the swivel hub kit is $190.
Normaly the wheel bearings are $80 a side.
Yeah I've been having a good look around and can't find anything even close to that price. Would like to pay the extra for cbc bearings but they are advertising these as japanese made so I think I'll just give them a go. For the amount of use the maverick is getting I can't justify spending massive amounts on something like wheel bearings. Pretty much a bush basher only used on the occasional harder tracks.
 

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BORDERTREK 4X4 & FABRICATION
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The CBC kits are NTN bearings, good gear.

My diff has the dogs balls. (not surprised really)
I'm going to truss it, repairable or start with a new one?
If you can find a straight housing for a decent price go that way but I haven't seen any that are dead straight for a while now due to the age of them now. Some engineering shops can straighten bent ones also a crash shop with a chassis jig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
In case anyone is interested I emailed this mob and they returned the email within 24 hrs. He confirmed the brand of bearing is KOYO. I'm pretty sure I used this brand last time and the quality is good. He also said that the brand changes often but he is sending me a checkout link to ensure that I get the Koyo bearings in the kit. Good customer service so far so I will go for it.
 
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