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Discussion Starter #161
The last couple of jobs to do before i can turn the key are to extend the exhaust a bit and point it down away from the body and gearbox. Oil and coolant and power steering fluid.
And lastly is the wiring to the lift pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #162
Had success today with the handbrake. Fitted a GU rear diff and now i have plenty of clearance for the handbrake leaver. Unfortunatly i didnt take any good comparitive before and after photos but ill throw up the ones i have anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #165
So the next list of priority jobs before i can move the car around are..
Reinstall the clutch master and slave and bleed it. Which last time seemed to be a right pain in the butt.
Bolt the tail shaft up.
Then get some brakes working. Since ive put the gu diff in the rear but not the front yet i might just source the master cylinder and booster for now. Least that way its just bleeding the front calipers when i get a front gu diff and not have to do the master cylinder twice.
Also gotta make up a gbox spacer as ive put the superflex hybrid arms in the front.
And then just some front springs and it should be driveable.
 

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Discussion Starter #166
Had another BIG little win this morning with the dash.
Its been one of those 'ill look into it later' jobs but been on my mind for a very long time.
And that was how to get the abs light to not come on since im not using the abs system. And the more annoying aspect of that is it throws the handbrake light on too if the abs light is on.

Anyway many hours trawling through wire diagrams that contradict each other and a quick chat with a mate gave me the confidence to try what i wanted without frying the cpu in the gauge cluster.
And BINGO we have a winner. So no more annoying dash lights to worry about.
Now just gotta pull all the wires out for the abs system. Should reduce the loom size behind the dash considerably.
 

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Discussion Starter #167
Just to add to the dash light dilemmas there is a fuel filter light that comes on when the filter gets clogged. I had assumed that light was on simply because i hadnt wired it up but looking at the wire diagram the switch looked to be normally open so shouldnt matter if it was wired up or not. It wasnt earthed so should be no light. Hmmm. Why is the light on then.

Took me a little while but realising the switch runs to the ecu then the dash light and that the switch was probably normally closed until fuel started flowing through it to open the switch that the ecu wants to see it closed before start up then open once its running before it decides to send signal to the dash light.

As frustrating as all this might sound it has given me way more confidence in my abilities to fault find in the future as the electronics of modern vehicles are what alot of people are afraid of when it comes to long term reliability.
 

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Discussion Starter #168
I pulled the behind dash loom that i had taped up thinking i was done with it because i decided to pull all the abs and air bag wires out since now im confident on everything working fine without them.
Which means i can add the rear window demister wire i forgot and pulled the speaker wires out too since they will be powered by an amp. Also gotta add an amp signal wire from the stereo.

I just ordered a bunch more terminals and tape so hopefully i can finish the looms off for good.

Any one looking at modifying any factory harnesses and plugs i highly recommend jaydee auto cables. They have a very impressive selection of oem terminals that will allow you to repin most factory connectors.
www.jaydeeautocables.com.au
 

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Discussion Starter #169
Made some good progress on the wiring looms. The main loom in the picture is 90% taped up and installed in the car. Just working out the best routing path on the drivers side of the engine bay as its a little longer than it needs to be and the ecu plug is a little awkward.
There are 2 looms behind the dash and another fusebox on the drivers side. The majority of the routing for this is all worked out. But there will be a fair bit of messing about getting all the connectors neat and securely fixed to something so they dont rattle and chaff.
Once thats done putting the dash back in should have me feeling like im on the home stretch.
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Discussion Starter #170
Just trying to get the harness behind the dash mounted so i can start to put the dash back in. Although i have checked for clearance for all the aur ducting and heater box its still a time consuming job making a loom from another car fit into place neatly and hopefully mounted in a way it wont rub, rattle or fatigue from being bent around corners it wasnt meant to.

My first regret was i didnt add any wires to control the electric antenna however i can live with that and just add one to the bull bar. Or even use the dmax one mounted to the roof as i believe it incorporates a DAB antenna too.
Secondly and more annoying is i didnt add a reverse trigger for a reverse camera.
I did how ever add wires for an elec thermo fan if i decide to go that way, which will power off one of the unused abs fuses.
Also if i delete the egr system then i can remove the throttle body however this still needs to be plugged in for the ecu to be happy. Most people just bolt it to the firewall in the engine bay. So i added some wires into the loom that come out behind the glovebox.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
So i got a heap of brackets I've fabricated all painted. For the engine bay these included the ecu, fuse box, power steering res and fuel filter, rad overflow.
Behind the dash there is a bracket for the big 40 pin connector behind the passanger kick panel, fusebox above the drivers side kick panel, key barrel steering colum lock, and somethong to mount the rear demist timer and keyless entry control box thats up behind the glovebox.

The harnesses behind the dash are all p clamped in place and the heater box and ducting is going back in.
I still have a couple of connectors behind the fan box to secure before the evap and fan can go in but im pretty sure the dash can go in first then mount the fan and evap unit. 20191020_160309.jpg

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Discussion Starter #172
Starting to feel like i can see light at the end of the tunnel.
Ive got my final 5 lists written up under headings; Engine bay, interior, body work, mechanical and electrical.
And for the first time these lists are getting shorter, not longer.

I have the dash back in at the moment and everything behind fits. I had to shape some of the ducting to allow for the harness and fuse box in a couple of places. I have been working on getting the gauge cluster to fit. Looks like it should work good but i need to cut a bit of the dash with the grinder so ill have to pull that again.
Finally i have the intake all complete. Ive had to use a 3" cobra head onto the throttle body and put the map sensor into the pipework just before it. The throttle body was only 2.75" so had to make up something a little questionable so the cobra head would seal. Time will tell if i need to get the welder onto it.
Also made a battery box which hopefully will be temporary as i dont want any battery in the engine bay.

There is still a few big jobs like the back half of the exhaust and the hand brake cables. Also fibreglassing up the dash to marry the stereo surround from the dmax and the gauge cluster.
 

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Starting to feel like i can see light at the end of the tunnel.
Ive got my final 5 lists written up under headings; Engine bay, interior, body work, mechanical and electrical.
And for the first time these lists are getting shorter, not longer.

I have the dash back in at the moment and everything behind fits. I had to shape some of the ducting to allow for the harness and fuse box in a couple of places. I have been working on getting the gauge cluster to fit. Looks like it should work good but i need to cut a bit of the dash with the grinder so ill have to pull that again.
Finally i have the intake all complete. Ive had to use a 3" cobra head onto the throttle body and put the map sensor into the pipework just before it. The throttle body was only 2.75" so had to make up something a little questionable so the cobra head would seal. Time will tell if i need to get the welder onto it.
Also made a battery box which hopefully will be temporary as i dont want any battery in the engine bay.

There is still a few big jobs like the back half of the exhaust and the hand brake cables. Also fibreglassing up the dash to marry the stereo surround from the dmax and the gauge cluster.
keep on ploding along it will be done before you know it top job
 

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Discussion Starter #174
As usual i never complete a particular job when i start it. Which is super frustrating as things take for ever to get finished but it often some back in nice little surprises.
Here is a perfect exaple. The centre section of dash in the photo i started on more than 18 months ago. Its still along way from finished but im glad ive got the basic frame work to carry on with.

The gauge cluster i have just started working on. Looks like it should work ok. It could do with being set back and down a little more but i think the space i have to work with should be fine.
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Discussion Starter #175
Almost finished in the engine bay too. Just have the vac sol for the turbo and baro sensor to mount as they hung off brackets for the old top mount intercooler.
Got the MAP sensor relocated into the new pipe work just before a 3" cobra head joiner onto the original throttle body. I know this is far from ideal but its a much bigger elbow than the factory cobra head style joiner.
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The battery tray is bolted in and just need to crimp a couple of new lugs onto the starter cable and the front end of the car is complete as far as electrics go.
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Still have the chassis loom to the tail lights to wrap up and crimp new terminals on for the original plugs.

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Discussion Starter #176
Here is the start of blending the two gauge pods together. Im sure this is going to take way longer than i imagine but so far it looks like it will come together quite well.
Firstly i hot glued them in place while it was all bolted to the dash.
Then used a little fibreglass to reinforce then hot glued some surfboard foam into the gap that needs shaping. Then will lay a thin layer of glass.
Thinking of painting it with raptor liner or gluing some vinyl on. 20191109_221935.jpg 20191109_222044.jpg
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Discussion Starter #179
Got some bits for the exhaust the othrr day.
Ive still got a good 3" muffler and a rusty rear section of exhaust so they are going in for now.
Ive used the old cat from the donor vehicle for now too as the engineer will want to see that in there.
So just had to fab up a section that runs down the drivers side of the gearbox and cross over to the passanger side chassis rail just infrint of the tail shaft.
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Its a pain in the butt running a passanger side exhaust on a patrol.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
The exhaust is done. And have finally driven it out of the garage.
Blew the intake pipe off the throttle body by 3rd gear.
Back to the drawing board and lots of rtv and this time my adapter stayed on the throttle body but the cobra head blew off.
Havent tested again after refitting but i might be able to make a strap to hold it down for now.
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I might need to rethink the engine mounts as the vibration at idle is pretty bad. Going to speak with the tuner about raising the idle speed as its tolerable at about 850rpm. Really dont want to be messing with remaking engine mounts.
 
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