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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I suppose the time has come to properly record and share my build.

It's a 2016 3.0L N-Trek Y61 Wagon. I've always been a Nissan fan and my previous 4x4 was a 2006 3.0L Di Navara. This patrol having one of the last generation ZD30's in Aus and knowing a bit about the base engine from having the Navara made this unit very appealing. After a test drive and just a little soul searching, I decided to make her mine.

This is what she looked like when I first took ownership about a year ago:
Day0.jpg


She had 86k on the clock when I got her, with a single previous owner, and completely stock apart from a few aftermarket wires here and there. She had a (VERY DEAD) second battery under the bonnet, some power run to the rear, a redarc electonic trailer brake unit, a DTE Pedal box throttle controller and the 20' light bar in that (probably illegal) spot on top of the hoop.. Apart from that she was more stock than a pot of Mum's chicken soup. It still had the OE suspension!

The plan was (and still is) to build a capable (and legal) Tourer. If I manage to legally add a few extra herbs under the bonnet during the build, then that's a bonus.


Hopefully this'll be the cleanest dirty '30 you've ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
As with any new relationship, it's always a good idea to jump right in have a good ol' look in every nook and cranny, open all the panels and covers and see what you've got.*

The first port of call was to knock-over the essential service items to be done to any new second-hand vehicle, first up on my service hit list was wheel bearings and a complete fluid and filter change.

I dropped the engine oil and started on the wheel bearings. Being it's first oil change in my care I wanted to give it plenty of time to drain.


IMG_20200523_100046.jpg

Looking good so far. Same hub setup as the ol' D22, so I'm in familiar territory.

The LHS hub was an absolute b**** to remove. I ended up having to put 2 opposing wheel nuts on and tying a rope handle across them for some square-on leverage, then doing some hernia inducing yanking while applying some solid percussive persuasion with a dead-blow hammer to get it moving.

Success! and there's the source of my problems! the LHS Axle stud is pretty shagged, Looks like quite a lot of scoring, not sure what was going on in there, but i'm definitely up for a new stub axle.

IMG_20200523_105328.jpg


Never having had a Solid axle vehicle before, my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to tear down the swivel hub and see how it all goes together.
IMG_20200523_105632.jpg

Pretty looking birfield joint, looks like the grease has just started to varnish, time for a good clean and re-pack of the needle bearing. The colouring on the ball piqued my interest and I've been wondering if there was a bit of excessive heat being generated in there.

IMG_20200523_120724.jpg

My oh my, what a shaft.

IMG_20200523_120720.jpg

Check out my empty knuckle. the investigation was pretty easy going and straight forward upto this point. Time to take that knuckle off and give it all a good clean and re-grease.

IMG_20200523_121221.jpg

Well...S%#T. That looks super-dooper shagged.

It would appear that Curiosity is not just a rover on Mars or a killer of cats, it's also a drainer of wallets and creator of stress.

All of the King pin bearings looked like this; (mostly) dry and rusty. Luckily the local bearing shop was still open and could pickup a full swivel hub rebuild kit to do both sides. Looks like my weekend just got bigger, longer and more uncut than expected.

Because the pressure was now on to completely clean and rebuild 2x swivel hubs, from scratch, after never having seen inside one only an hour earlier, it was time for some Radio up, head down, and application of the proverbial (and real) elbow grease. (so no more photos of the rebuild, sorry)

After picking up the swivel hub kit it took me another 8 hours to do the full clean, rebuild and get the front end back together. Not a bad effort, all things considered. I still hadn't completed the main service items, like fluids and filters... that sounded like a Sunday job.

I had definitely earnt that beer (or two).




*not real relationship advice
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well after the fiasco with the swivel hubs, it was time to have a look at some of the other parts that make any good ZD30 the famous beast that it is.

Getting that tell-tale squeal, and knowing the motor like I do. A quick poke around underneath with a torch found the culprit pretty easily.

IMG_20200509_163850.jpg
IMG_20200524_091535.jpg
IMG_20200524_094739.jpg

Still good? or nah?


While I had the torch in hand I went looking for other, easy to pick, things to add to the ever growing list of things to do (seriously. I have a whiteboard of stuff to do)
IMG_20200524_084801.jpg

Looks like this crimp has crumped its last.


rusty cylinder 4.jpg

This is a more recent photo, but I did notice it last year, still not sure how i feel about Injector #4 looking like this. I'm not sure if it's normal, but given it's location under the intercooler, I'm not sure how to stop this from happening again.

IMG_20200506_183034.jpg

30kg of (literally) dead weight. It had dropped a cell, so out it went and I removed all the wiring that went with it. Regardless of how my vehicle ends up in the future, I'd rather start with a blank canvas than try and build on someone elses work. At this stage, nearly a year on, I'm still not sure if I want a second battery under the bonnet because my only real usage case would be to dual them up to better power a winch.

Speaking on the topic of electrics, I'm not a massive fan of these battery terminals, time to add them to the list and ponder on a better solution.
IMG_20200601_165105.jpg
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However, there is a nice little block of empty space beside the battery that might be useful for a fuse block of some kind down the line. TO THE LIST OF PONDERMENT IT GOES!
IMG_20200601_165131.jpg




Hey Look, Dangar falls!
IMG_20200613_084215.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After a fortuitous visit from the postie, I had a few more goodies to install.

First up, a shiny new LHS stub axle.
IMG_20200620_133926.jpg



No 4wd is complete without a set of recovery nipples.
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I was quite happy to find that there was already the required M12x1.25 captured nuts in the chassis rails, so I didn't have to used the silly nuts on a wire and try and slide them into the chassis rails. It looks like they don't quite clear the bullbar mount. This definitely looks like a problem for future J0shman, take that sucka!


About a month later, while dropping the oil I figured it was time to finally make the recovery points usable. Nothing that a bit of time with a grinder and some chassis black paint couldn't fix.
IMG_20200719_115734.jpg



Being a new car, and being a little paranoid, A front and rear dash cam was some pretty good insurance. I went for the Viofo A129 Pro Duo. All the reviews online gave it some top marks for image quality and low-light performance. I've had a chance to review some of the footage and it's got not complaints from me. If you're looking at getting one, I highly recommend getting the GPS base, and the Polarizer filter.
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As they say, all good boys deserve a Provent, however, I installed one anyway.
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The only thing missing was an antenna standing tall on the bullbar. The wiring for this was pretty straight forward, I used some piggy back fuse holders and tapped into the internal fuse panel by the drivers knee. The head unit install isn't the best work, but it's pretty unobtrusive and out of the (my) way. It took me a very long to settle on where and how to hang the hand unit. It took some creative thinking, the work of a skilled 3D printer, and the butchering of a GME Magnetic holder. but this is the only real place where it can sit without getting in the way of any other function and still be readily accessible.
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No pictures of the Redarc Boost/EGT/Water Temp gauge install unfortunately. Though I did use a SAAS mounting cup to mount it there. It only just fits and if I need to I can rotate it back and close the lid to hide it.

At this stage I'd owned the rig for 4 months and still had yet to take it off road. I had several reasons for this, namely, I was enjoying the cathartic nature of planning and working on it, and didn't want to interrupt the flow, the other big one was that I was being too cheap to buy an air compressor. I had a perfectly good ARB twin compressor unit sitting in my parents shed 400km away, that I just needed to go and collect.... If the QLD border ever decided to open up. Stupid virus.

At this point I'd done the necessary servicing, replaced bearings, seals and all fluids (except coolant) and even put 2 changes of engine oil through it.

From this point the rig sat pretty much unmolested for a few months... right up until I got 2 years worth of (reasonably healthy) tax return... that's when some of my bigger plans had a chance to see the light of day.

To be Continued...
 

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Do yourself a favor and get rid of that throttle pedal booster unless you want a hole in the piston. I have heard horror stories about those!! Also you can just repack the kingpin bearings with Grease no need for a full rebuild,I have had a Patrol 3.0 go to 600k towing every day (well documented on this forum) only ever changed those king pins once!! 😄 At your sort of K's it's nuts changing them. Each to their own though.
Nice Patrol👍
 
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I was waiting for this!
The write up is as cathartic as the build in some ways... enjoy

also not sure if you’ve done so already, but someone makes a switch panel for that spot you mentioned next to the start battery.

now I actually bought it, it has the winch isolator cut out and the fuse box cutout. But I’m returning it for one without the fuse box cutout. I’ve realised it’s no good for me as I’m only going to need the winch isolator and two midi fuses. Thankfully he does it as a solid panel with just the isolator hole cut out. $110 posted

http://instagr.am/p/CGe-7v-Aul3/
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do yourself a favor and get rid of that throttle pedal booster unless you want a hole in the piston. I have heard horror stories about those!! Also you can just repack the kingpin bearings with Grease no need for a full rebuild,I have had a Patrol 3.0 go to 600k towing every day (well documented on this forum) only ever changed those king pins once!! 😄 At your sort of K's it's nuts changing them. Each to their own though.
Nice Patrol👍
Thanks for the warning! I find the Patrol to be responsive enough for my needs, so i mostly leave the pedal box turned off. every now and then I'll turn it up to 11 and go for a short drive. I'm still exploring my options, but eventually an ECU remap might be in my future (cough EGT delete cough)

I could've easily justified leaving my king pin bearings alone and just re-greasing them, but at least now i know that they're new, and properly greased. the job is done, the hubs are rebuilt, and I feel better knowing that its in good shape. Though I do want to tear down the front end and properly set the king-pin pre-load. I just put the shims back in. and from memory one side was a bit more stiff than the other. While i'm in there it's the perfect opportunity to drop in a set of Trail-Safe axle seals


I was waiting for this!
The write up is as cathartic as the build in some ways... enjoy

also not sure if you’ve done so already, but someone makes a switch panel for that spot you mentioned next to the start battery.

now I actually bought it, it has the winch isolator cut out and the fuse box cutout. But I’m returning it for one without the fuse box cutout. I’ve realised it’s no good for me as I’m only going to need the winch isolator and two midi fuses. Thankfully he does it as a solid panel with just the isolator hole cut out. $110 posted

http://instagr.am/p/CGe-7v-Aul3/
Thanks mate. I enjoyed the write-up process so far. indeed, very cathartic.

Not to let too many imaginary cats out of proverbial bags, but I've already made some head way on my solution for that little space next to the battery. I think you'll like it.

However, I do love that product you linked. If I had the skills and access to a sheet bending unit I'd make myself so much stuff. Though now that I actually look into it... you can get some pretty cheap fab tools....maybe I'll treat myself one day.
 

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Well it's true I suppose! Given how new and fresh your Patrol is I think new king pins isn't the worst upgrade anyway.
They are just a bearing I never see much play in at all and once packed with Grease they seem to work just fine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The next few posts will all cover the same task performed across several months, then I'll skip back again and pick up the other things in future posts.

Sound proofing.
From the outset the vehicle had some pretty nasty reverberation when driving on anything rougher than your polished....k...itchen table. The sound from the suspension and all the bumps, etc seemed to bounce around the cabin and converge right inside my brain. I settled on going all out and getting the Car Builders Premium Wagon Pack

Having never pulled apart the interior of any vehicle before, it was quite the adventure to remove all the various clips, toggle, and trim pieces. The skills I learnt as a youth playing with lego and pulling stuff apart for the hell of it finally came in handy. I started with the roof and cargo area first.

Bye-Bye third row...
PXL_20201031_012501968.jpg


Se-you-later carpet. Hey look, the fuel tank access hatch has been letting the red stuff in. Grabbed some thin P-shaped foam seal (and some breakfast snags) from the big B to make a proper seal.
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Grabbed some thin P-shaped foam seal (and some breakfast snags) from the big B to make a proper seal.
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Front one looks better, but still it got the same P-seal treatment
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Looks like there already some factory butyl/bitumen sound deadener material already installed. I'm glad it looks sooooooooo easy to clean. 🙄

Rear air-con unit revealed! I had some lofty dreams of removing this to reduce weight and regain some hidy-hole space. buuuuuuuut, thats gone into the too-hard and unnecessary basket.
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This feels like a violations of the ol' girls trust...
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on a side note, the cotton stuff under (on top of?) the head liner was an absolute PITA to fully remove. the double sided tape used by Nissan was the worst stuff to remove.

It took me a good lon while to work around the roof ribbing, but I got the stage 1 done in a few hours.
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The stage 2 closed cell insul-layer didn't take too much longer.
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I even insulated the backside of the A/C duct where it runs against the glass. I figured that potential source of heat for the newly cooled air wasn't the best thing.
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And the headliner is back in. If possible, try not to be in a position where you need to do this by yourself. I managed it, but I feel like I've earnt an honorary place in the Cirque du Soleil
PXL_20201101_031015199.jpg


Doing the roof alone made a difference to the internal temp and the reverberation through the vehicle. The roof is essentially just a very large single sheet of steel. The more we can do to make it act less like a big drum, the better.

Time to get back to work...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok... maybe one more...

In hindesight, if i'd thought a little harder about it, I could have made this much easier on myself, but hey, what're you gonna do?
PXL_20201101_062809759.jpg


I put some on the "D" pillars as well, because why not? I also removed the rear seatbelts, as I intended to get the seating capacity legally reduced to 5. On the advice of the inspector I had to fill all the bolt holes associated with the seatbelts with silicon. Not bolts. like what you see here...
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I tried to get the Stage 1 into as many nooks and cranny's as my buttery fingers could reach.
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Progress being made. The cargo area was very time consuming because there's so many intricate areas and contours to get into.
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Uh-oh. look what I found. a broken A/C bracket. This perplexed me for a little while, and I even thought about ignoring it; i mean it's been fiiiiiiiiine up till now...
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Though it's not really in my nature to leave well enough alone... a big squirt of araldite, and some tiny cable ties to stitch it back together, and you'd never know it was broke.
PXL_20201106_074011534.jpg



Ok, for real, it's time to go back to work.
 

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Mate this has come at a perfect time. I've had the same carbuilders kit sitting in my garage since black friday. I'm waiting for some time off work to tackle the job

In hindesight, if i'd thought a little harder about it, I could have made this much easier on myself, but hey, what're you gonna do?
In what way could you have made this easier?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mate this has come at a perfect time. I've had the same carbuilders kit sitting in my garage since black friday. I'm waiting for some time off work to tackle the job
It took me a fair while to get it done. And I drove around a fair bit with the interior mostly not there. I even spent a week driving around with no carpet or front trim and only the drivers seat in. If you manage it, I'd definitely spend the time and do it over a few days.

In what way could you have made this easier?
Oof... A bit of planning and forethought in how to lay out the stage 1 sheets to more evenly provide coverage. Prioritising laying down full sheets, and using the leftover to fill in gaps. Orientating all the sheets the same way. You'll be surprised at how much you lose once you push it all down into the body work.

I'd definitely recommend starting with the roof though. You've got to pull out all the seating and most of the trim to get it done. Plus it's a good little boost of encouragement once it's done. It can also easily be done in a weekend. I started pulling apart the interior mid morning on Saturday, and had the head liner back in just after lunch on Sunday. And that was doing it by myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Lets see...where am I up to in my build... Right! so just to cap off the sound deadening through out the cabin after the above work it took me a few months to get back to it and finally finish it off. Unfortunately I'm going to have to leave you with some blue⚾'s, because I took very few photos of the front half of the cabin install. I think I just wanted to get it done.

I drove around with the car like this with only the drivers seat in for about a week.
PXL_20210214_085110848.jpg


PXL_20210214_085120089.MP.jpg


In going back through my photos, i can't find any photos of the stage 2 Mass noise liner install or finished product...probably for the best; i definitely wasn't a seamstress in a past life. or maybe I was and i was really mean to people and my lack of ability in this life is cosmic karma. Either way...

I had left doing the front half of the vehicle for a long time as i needed to get a few other ducks lined up to try and accomplish as many tasks as I possibly could at the same time.

But i'm getting ahead of myself...

After I had installed the head liner and cargo area sounds proofing, and put the vehicle back together (minus the 3rd row and all its mounting hardware) it was time to do some work underneath...
 

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This is great motivation Josh!

In a few weeks time I'm back to my normal shift schedule which includes 5 days off at a time. I'm gonna try to knock it all out in one go!

How was driving around like that!? Must have REALLY sounded like a tin can then
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
GVM Upgrade.

This is probably the one modification that I deliberated over the most. It had to be the first big one. The vehicle would be scrutinized as part of the engineering certification.

There were many many MANY phone calls to engineers and various shops, research online. I was determined to do it right, do it once and do it legally.

All roads lead me back to Pedders. For a post-registration GVM upgrade, this is the right choice for me. For one, I can get it engineered in any state - It's a standard kit offered by Pedders, (probably one of the biggest factors)

The package comes with the welded diff brace, and the BOSS bolt-in rear coil tower braces, shocks and coils all round as well a steering damper. While they were in there doing all that, I also had them replace all the bushes throughout the vehicle with genuine Nissan bushes. Like I said, this ol' gal was stock as a rock when I got it 'er - 4 years old with a completely OE undercarriage.

One of the huge reasons that I'd done so few modifications up till now was all for this. For the GVM to get signed off it had to go past an engineer. And the local guy that they use is super finnicky. Their stance is - if its modified from stock - it'll need to be accounted for and re-engineered, from what i gathered in overhearing him talk to other people in his shop, if i had rocked up with non-standard tires or rims, he would've likely only certified the GVM after a lane-change test. I'd heard a few stories about him, and i'm cynical enough to have expected it, which is why I hadn't touched the rims or tires; I wanted the GVM certification process to go as hassle-free as possible.

Anyway - Here's that bling that ya'll love so much.


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They also changed the side indicators, and gave me a sweet little sticker thingy.
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And what you really wanted to know...
InkedPXL_20201110_062640542 - Copy_LI.jpg



The ride is quite stiff with the empty vehicle, but with a bit of weight in it it softens out. I'm tempted to get some airbags in the rear to hopefully further dampen the stiff springs. But for now its not too bad.

Having completed the first major milestone in the build, I had a 3" exhaust installed the day after the engineering inspection and all clear, and 5x 285/75/16 Maxxis Razr's on 16" steelies installed 2 days after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This is great motivation Josh!

In a few weeks time I'm back to my normal shift schedule which includes 5 days off at a time. I'm gonna try to knock it all out in one go!

How was driving around like that!? Must have REALLY sounded like a tin can then
Good stuff! assuming you can park it up for a few days, you shouldn't have too much trouble getting it done in that time. Mine is a daily driver and I don't have an undercover place at home, so I was limited in time after work (gotta love daylight savings) and beholden to the weather in my install.

Make sure you buy a few extra rolls of the aluminium tape as well, I used quite a lot as I used it to seal all the cuts, knicks and edges of the Stage1 product. - especially if it was going to be in direct contact with something else like carpet or the underlay, etc. Also watch a few of the videos on the carbuilders youtube channel, I found it handy to watch the process a few times to get a feel for how they do it and the tools required.

driving around with no interior wasn't too bad, the stage 1 product REALLY kills the reverb in the vehicle. The worst was probably the exhaust drone was extra loud with nothing else in there to soak up the sound.
 

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Found a YouTube vid of a patrol that car builders had done (for reference)



Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Found a YouTube vid of a patrol that car builders had done (for reference)



Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
I watched that vid several (hundred) times to see how they tackled some of the weirder areas of the floor profile and the general techniques they used. definitely recommended!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Alright, time to get back to it.

As mentioned, as soon as the GVM upgrade was complete, I had a 3" exhaust, steelies and 33" Razr's installed. Within the space of less than a week, the Dirty '30 had been transformed. In going through my photos I found a photo of when I picked her up after getting the new rims and tires.

PXL_20201113_225646097.jpg



A month of so before this, I found a great special on Safari Snorkels, so I'd had a snorkel waiting to go in. It was a great way to spend a Saturday afternoon.

Aligning the Safari Template. Real easy task, the instructions are pretty darn clear.
PXL_20201114_033401729.jpg


Intentionally drawing on the paintwork and hitting it with a centre punch was tough and emotionally scarring. But worth it in the end.
PXL_20201114_033537381.jpg


Drilling holes was even harder. I hit them with a small pilot bit, then reemed the holes out using a step drill.
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Speaking of drilling holes, the big one was an emotionally tough one to drill, I laid down a lot more masking tape than what the previous photo shows. I used alot of speed on the holesaw, cutting compound (IMPORTANT!), and just eased it in. It cut through like a spoon into soup.
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I de-burred all the edges using a de-burring tool and some needle files, then hit them with a healthy dose of primer, both inside and out.
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I also cleaned and laid down some primer on the inside of the guard where the old intake sat. there was a little bit of surface corrosion where the two metal surfaces met.
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I used some loctite to hold in the threaded studs, and cut a piece of foam to give a proper seal between the snorkel and the guard, this also stops any dirt, dust, debris, etc from getting between the snokrl body and guard and causing any rust issues. I'm a little surprised that the snorkel kit doesn't come with anything like this.
PXL_20201114_054517895.jpg


I even managed to get the snorkel installed without needing to remove the passenger wheel. it was a pain, and I'd recommend removing the wheel if you can. I don't have a photo of it, but I used some M4 riv-nuts on the A-pillar instead of the little plastic clips that are provided. I used the same tricks up there and applied ample primer and backed the bracket with some foam to provide a seal against the bodywork. I used all S/S hardware where I could.
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I also had a Silicone intake hose to go in, so I made the most of my time and did while I had the airbox out for the snorkel install.
PXL_20201114_080555540.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So to continue the theme of intake modifications, and providing some closure to the crimp that crumped its last, I ordered a replacement top-mount intercooler. I went with HPD as they seemed to be alright. There was a 7 week lead time on them, and I got the the day before christmas.

Here's some comparison photos against the stock unit the cooling core is thicker, wider, and longer than the stock unit with fully welded tanks. It doesn't require any modification to the bonnet cutout, or supports. It's a like for like swap out. I found that this alone dropped my EGT's by about 50 deg. and gave a little boost to the loud pedal.
HPD vs. Stock 2.jpg
HPD vs. Stock.jpg

HPD vs. Stock1.jpg



the next natural upgrade was to increase the air flow through the intercooler, this meant getting a bigmouth scoop. I got this from Mr Body Kits. the delivery time was really quick and it turned up in the natural black ABS colour. It looked to be injection moulded. I went through the process and painted it to match the rest of the car.

My process for painting was:
  • wash the scoop with dishwashing liquid
  • lightly scuff it with green scourer
  • wash again and thoroughly dry
  • apply a plastic primer/adhesion promoter
  • several billion coats of body colour with a light scuff and wax/grease remover between coats.
  • finish with 4 coats of gloss sealer.

the end product is a very schmick looking bigmouth.

It was pretty filth under the old scoop.
big mouth scoop.jpg



After a good clean, the new scoop is sitting pretty. I've noticed that this further dropped my EGT's about 25+ deg.
big mouth scoop1.jpg
 
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