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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I have finally had it with the ZD30... it's let me down just one too many times. A bit of background:

My ride is a 2000 GUI ZD30 wagon, purchased about 5 years ago with ~150,000Km on the clock. The lady selling it claimed it had had a rebuild before she bought it off an older couple who blew it up towing a caravan on the big lap. She wasn't able to back this up with evidence, but a lot of little signs led me to believe she was correct... including the fact the block had no engine number on it! Currently I have ~316,000Km on it. I would post a photo or two here, but I don't have any good ones handy.
I have done a few mods over the years including a fully sick ebay 2" lift kit (flogged the shockies out on the road into Weipa last year, still haven't replaced them), grouse ebay snorkel, elocker on the front diff, quality Dominator winch from everyone's friends at 4WD Supacentre (drowned one somewhere on the Cape, got a replacement under warranty, had to rebuild the replacement again last year as control solenoid thingy was buggered), sweet alloy full length roof rack from ebay, the usual lighting mods (all ebay), dropped radius arms from some bloke in Adelaide whose business name I can't remember at present (totally fixed that floaty feeling from the lift), dual battery system, homemade fridge slide blah blah... and one of my favourite, and all-time cheapest mods, was the rear door gas strut mod!! wish I'd done it years ago.

The clear coat has entirely peeled off the bonnet from the heat up here, the sides are proper scratched from driving through the bush, it sports numerous small dings on the panels and the tail lights in the plastic rear bumper are held in with whatever screws I had to hand at the time. It is my daily driver and camping wagon, and I love this car.

As you can tell, I'm a budget modification sort of person, a bit of a tight a*** some might say- fair enough- so when the mighty Nissan stopped in the middle of the road, in the middle of the night, 80Km out of Burketown, I was less than impressed as my fishing expedition died with the engine. After we waited out the night beside the road, and most of the next day at a nearby cattle station, we were towed home. And I found out I needed a new injector pump. Well, once the mechanic had started work, it turned out it needed a timing chain (I think), and this, and that, and finally $7K later I have my car back.

That was late last year, and after reflecting on it for a while, and noticing another coolant leak buried in the guts of the engine bay on the passenger side, I decided not to spend another cent on the POS and do what I should have done before, if only I had known. So, here begins my TD42 conversion write up.

I found this:
512957


In a 1990 GQ. It was running but had heaps of blow by and it was pressurizing the cooling system, so I planned to rebuild it. I bought the whole car so I have all of the bits for the conversion. Here's a mate helping me take it out of the donor car:

512958


Yeah Boi:

512959


See ya:
512960


Now I just have to rebuild the engine, and convert the GU to TD42. what could possibly go wrong?
:unsure:
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Here's the motor ready for teardown:
512987


is the thermostat supposed to be this oily? Any ideas on what would cause this?
512988


Possible evidence of tap water coolant, I reckon:
512989


I would appreciate any advice from those who would know, does this timing cover look too worn where the water pump goes? Also where the lower thermostat housing bolts on the top (square hole) there is a lip designed to hold an O-ring in place which is damaged. Will this be a problem? Do I need to replace the timing cover? You can see it on the lH edge of the photo above, as well

512990


Pistons looked pretty good, but the liners didn't look that great. Measured with my ebay bore gauge kit they were out of spec so they'll be replaced. Here are a couple of the worst ones:
512991


512992


512993
 

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Every dog has his day
nissan
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18,190 Posts
That O ring is important for sealing, if mating surface too crook (hard to tell from pic) I’d replace it.

If you want to run a turbo with decent boost in the future, buy some genuine turbo pistons, gudfeons and rods, well worth it in the long run.

As for liners, when you get block machined and liners fitted, make 100% sure they don’t use liquid nitrogen to fit them. Fine on many engines, but not this one. Many folks have run in to trouble with this.

Is your GU manual or auto?
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Manual gearbox in the GU, I’m confident I can get that bit of the conversion done easily enough... when I get to it lol
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yeah copy that on the liquid nitrogen, I’ve spoken to a couple of shops already but I’ll make sure they press fit them 👍🏻
 

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Every dog has his day
nissan
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18,190 Posts
You'll also need the gearbox crossmember from the donor GQ, that will move box and engine back about 25-30mm so engine is in correct spot.

Having a better look on a bigger screen where that O ring goes, looks like you'll need a new housing a think.
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
You'll also need the gearbox crossmember from the donor GQ, that will move box and engine back about 25-30mm so engine is in correct spot.

Having a better look on a bigger screen where that O ring goes, looks like you'll need a new housing a think.
Yeah cheers mate, already have the GQ crossmember out, radiator and some other bits.

That's not what I wanted to hear about the timing cover
:(
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Check out the oil pickup LOL... took me a while to figure out what all of the black flaky crap was, then I realised it's paint from inside the sump!
Honestly, who would paint the inside of the sump??
513032
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
For interest's sake, I found a pic of my GU when I had just bought it... I wish it was this shiny now :rolleyes:

Can't wait until it's rollin' coal :cool:

513034
 

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Every dog has his day
nissan
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18,190 Posts
You're right, that pickup looks a bit ordinary!

Rad from GQ won't be much good I don't think. You can use the ZD one but you'll have to use the overflow and pressure tank arrangement, no prob there, that's what Nissan did with the TD42Ti in later models anyway.

Remember to keep oil sender and coolant temp sender from ZD, they will screw straight in to the 42.

As for lower housing, will an O ring sit in there happily? It's important that seals properley, it will be much easier to,replace housing with engine out than try to do it with engine in car, if you're in any doubt 👍
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well yesterday and today I hooked in and pulled a heap of bits off the motor, including the crank nut... I have been dreading this from reading about how hard it can be, but I borrows this brilliant tool, tap tap and its’s off!!
CD450516-CFBC-4762-B7E5-6D8CE80EA046.jpeg
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Got the timing cover off, despite one of the 2 studs up the top being seized... here it is receiving some encouragement
7222BDBA-819F-440B-BCFB-5E42BA71DC24.jpeg
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Can’t get no. 6 main bearing cap off, it is different from the others (much less clearance either side) and has a brass or copper thing in a slot on either side. I am reluctant to hit it to make it move. Anyone have any idea how to remove it?
Pic for attention, will get better pic of no. 6 when I get back to the shed
513099
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Love tap.
You reckon? All the others came off easily, I thought this one was a bit different... what’s the go with the brass/copper thing in the slots on the side? Here’s a pic:
513103
 

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nissan gq
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1,430 Posts
Here's the motor ready for teardown:
View attachment 512987

is the thermostat supposed to be this oily? Any ideas on what would cause this?
View attachment 512988

Possible evidence of tap water coolant, I reckon:
View attachment 512989

I would appreciate any advice from those who would know, does this timing cover look too worn where the water pump goes? Also where the lower thermostat housing bolts on the top (square hole) there is a lip designed to hold an O-ring in place which is damaged. Will this be a problem? Do I need to replace the timing cover? You can see it on the lH edge of the photo above, as well

View attachment 512990

Pistons looked pretty good, but the liners didn't look that great. Measured with my ebay bore gauge kit they were out of spec so they'll be replaced. Here are a couple of the worst ones:
View attachment 512991

View attachment 512992

View attachment 512993
A bath in 10% Oxalic acid will remove all the rusty ****e from the water jacket,I got mine from Big Bubble,about $10/kg,this will not eat steel/iron just oxide and is biodegradable.You can leave it in a couple of days,then hose it out,leaves a green/grey parkerised kind of finish.
The timing cover looks better than mine,washed it in phosphoric acid [mag wheel cleaner] to get all the rough muck off,agitated with a wire brush and hosed it off.Used aly Devcon,finger [with a glove] smeared it into all the cavitation pits and eroded areas.this takes about 45 min the go off.I repaired my cover about 5/6 yrs ago,repair will probably out last the rest of the cover. You could use playdough to form the seal groove for the thermostat,and just tape to form the cavity side,slightly overfill the Devcon and it will flow into the form.once it has gone off properly it can be filed to final fit.do the top then the front as separate operations so each have time to set before shifting the job. Devcon is used in many industries for serious repair and filling jobs.

Cheers,G.
 

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2000 GUI TD42T converted from ZD30 with blood, sweat and beers
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109 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Hey Grumpyone, I was going to get the machine shop to give it a bath for me, but now maybe i’ll have a look around for a tub I can submerge the block in...
Re: timing cover, I never thought of repairing it. I thought it was proper r**ted but i’ll re-assess. Found this hidden damage on the inside:
513111
 
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