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  • Hey Knuckles. My hat is off to you for staying the course and the never say die attitude. Ive followed your posts from the get go and dead set, i felt for you when the dramas came raining down. I'm looking at going the same journey you've undertaken as soon as the bank balance is healthy enough. Your excellent posting here on the forum will be an absolute blessing and i for one am extremely grateful for your efforts sharing your experience, highs and lows. So in answer, it most certainly will be a help in the not too distant future. Enjoy the fruits of your labour and get out there and rescue a few of those annoying Toyota owners. All the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
  • Hey Knuckles. My hat is off to you for staying the course and the never say die attitude. Ive followed your posts from the get go and dead set, i felt for you when the dramas came raining down. I'm looking at going the same journey you've undertaken as soon as the bank balance is healthy enough. Your excellent posting here on the forum will be an absolute blessing and i for one am extremely grateful for your efforts sharing your experience, highs and lows. So in answer, it most certainly will be a help in the not too distant future. Enjoy the fruits of your labour and get out there and rescue a few of those annoying Toyota owners. All the best.
Hey Mad4Mud, thank you for the moral support there! I did try and create this thread to document the process in detail for others to use as a reference, because I got the courage to have a go from reading similar threads on this forum. It has been so helpful.
Oh yes and there is NOTHING as satisfying as towing a Toyota out of a sticky situation 😂😂
 

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Find myself in the same situation and with the wealth of info scattered throughout this forum and the vast knowledge of some of the people it makes it do-able for someone like myself. Your's was the first I'd come across with it all in one place and that, for someone not so net savvy, is absolute gold. Love your work.
 

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i just dropped washer into the intake charging up my borescope to see where it went :(




I learned a lesson that I thought I would share as I was finishing up the other day... I managed to drop one of those tiny copper injector nozzle washers through the head and the pre-combustion chamber, so it was sitting on top of the piston. I had to say a few colourful words.
The washer was just visible down the hole, but after fishing around for an hour with a fine bit of wire I had to give up for the day, devastated. I couldn’t see it any more, I’d even turned the engine upside-down to try and get it that way.

After a bit of a think, after work this arvo I turned the crank over, had another look down the hole and whaddaya know...

View attachment 514393

Then I did what I should have done the first time, which was putting something sticky on the end of a bit of wire and voila!

View attachment 514395

I’ve said it before- there is nothing you can’t do with a good bit of wire! 👌

To top off a good day, my orders from partsouq (engine mounts, weld-on bracket and harmonic dampener) and patrolapart (weld-on engine bracket, long studs for water pump) arrived! Winning!
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
no luck dont seeit in there
im about to pull the head off :(((
The little bastard will be in there somewhere. Have you tried feeling around with duct tape or something sticky on the end of a bit of wire? I would try and exhaust all other possibilities before going to the trouble of pulling the head off...
Edit: by doing the above you might be able to drag it into a spot where you can see it. Also try looking with piston in a variety of positions, I found the pre-comp is not a big hole to look through and widening the field of view might help
Another edit: what about a vacuum cleaner on the precomp, if the piston is all the way up? You might be able to suck it into the dust bag for retrieval (and a bit of a clean) afterwards
 

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The little bastard will be in there somewhere. Have you tried feeling around with duct tape or something sticky on the end of a bit of wire? I would try and exhaust all other possibilities before going to the trouble of pulling the head off...
Edit: by doing the above you might be able to drag it into a spot where you can see it. Also try looking with piston in a variety of positions, I found the pre-comp is not a big hole to look through and widening the field of view might help
Another edit: what about a vacuum cleaner on the precomp, if the piston is all the way up? You might be able to suck it into the dust bag for retrieval (and a bit of a clean) afterwards
ive been at it for 2nd day now
ill give it shot with vac cleaner again
i don't see how ill be able to get wire with magnet in there its really tight
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
ive been at it for 2nd day now
ill give it shot with vac cleaner again
i don't see how ill be able to get wire with magnet in there its really tight
Use sticky tape with sticky side out
Magnet no good as washer is made of copper
 

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Use sticky tape with sticky side out
Magnet no good as washer is made of copper
its spring washer from bolts that the held intake on. i tried again with piece of wire , blew compressed air into valve and held vacuum cleaner at the injector ole . no luck
piston in various positions.
gave up . and realized the washer is probably too big to come out through the precom chamber hole .
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
its spring washer from bolts that the held intake on. i tried again with piece of wire , blew compressed air into valve and held vacuum cleaner at the injector ole . no luck
piston in various positions.
gave up . and realized the washer is probably too big to come out through the precom chamber hole .
Ah yeah right. I was thinking of a different type of washer.
I suppose you’ve already tried getting at it without intake manifold on...
What about upside-down with valves open? I assume it’s on a stand... other than that I’m out of ideas mate 🤔
 

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Ah yeah right. I was thinking of a different type of washer.
I suppose you’ve already tried getting at it without intake manifold on...
What about upside-down with valves open? I assume it’s on a stand... other than that I’m out of ideas mate 🤔
its in the truck
took the manifold off already :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
Ha ha ha I hear they crack as soon as you look at them... good time to replace them though 👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Well time for another update on the big red rig... finally got everything back together the day before yesterday, spent fully half a day making up one dump pipe (what a PITA):
7FB4362F-EC2D-4B9B-B979-80F367B79068.jpeg
The black paint hides some very ugly welds but it’s heaps better than the last one, which was a big rush job.
The whole setup looks like this:
28ED6CA8-FB0C-4A9C-A5F5-3DDFFA24CE8D.jpeg
I made a couple of improvements over last time, including an 80mm intake pipe from the air box and header wrap on the dump pipe to keep some of the heat out of the engine bay. I had some wrap left over so I put it on the alloy elbow of the intake, which sits inconveniently close to the engine block.
I was procrastinating on actually starting it up (****ting myself it would fail again, actually) but finally it couldn’t be avoided any longer so the little helpers and I pumped the hand primer and cranked it over a few times and it started! I cbf cracking the injectors this time as it is a 2-man job really and there was only one full-sized person on site. Also I killed my starter battery doing it last time.
So anyway it was going beautifully, we were doing some checks underneath and turns out the f*kin radiator leaks now. 🤬🤬🤬 so fan and belts off, radiator out again, Mrs Knuckles asking “when is the car going to be ready? You said January”, car still parked up.
Consoled myself with a trip to eBay this morning, ordered new radiator and shround (to replace my heavily chopped-up one) and some new shockers all round since I was there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
Question: can a factory NA heatshield be modified to suit low mount turbo manifold?
Answer: yes.
E4A3C023-B3A5-403D-A465-6B7E41897747.jpeg A48FEB2E-4385-4280-90A0-77EC3CF2AF25.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
Started mucking around with the wiring loom again yesterday while I wait for the new radiator to turn up. I thought I’d try and get the tacho working properly by installing the Dakota SGI-8E module, as many others have done.
So this is the wiring coming out of the ecm, after I had previously cut off all the stuff that was superfluous after the conversion.
BF1A3F44-49D1-4B87-B130-AC6B8D2F0C7E.jpeg
Yes I have checked every one of these off to make sure they really are redundant 😁 I found one earth that I reconnected.

Here is the Dakota module. I grabbed an earth and 12v accessories power from the cigarette lighter, and cut and extended the pin out no. 5 (yellow with black trace- tachometer) and ran that wire from the ECM to ‘signal in’ and then from the ‘normal’ terminal on the Dakota to the tacho.
9A9B9031-EFAF-4883-983C-1DF1F8B20A2F.jpeg

Unfortunately it (the tacho) still doesn’t work. The Dakota is doing everything it should, except if it is outputting a test signal, it’s not getting to the tacho. I have no dash backlighting, no tacho, no speedo. Everything else works as it should. I have checked every fuse I could find and they are all fine. I have researched on this forum and it seems a common problem- the usual suspects seem to be dodgy trailer plug wiring (blowing the tail light fuse, which is on the same circuit) or a dodgy stereo install. Neither is the problem here.
Guess i’ll have to pull some more wires out to try and find it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 · (Edited)
Well team it's been a little while but time to update... The vehicle is running now, FINALLY!

I had a long wait for a new radiator, but it arrived eventually and the little helpers and I dropped it in. I must say the new radiator shroud is heaps better than the ZD one I modified, because I can actually get to stuff like the fan, belts, etc. without having to move radiator and shroud together.

We chucked the camper trailer on so as to load the engine up and took it for a commissioning drive, to run it in... It performed exactly as I had hoped it would run the first time. All the coolant even stayed in the radiator this time lol!

Here we are:
519197


Even though the tacho and factory temp gauges aren't working (yet), I was able to note the following from my aftermarket gauges:

Max oil temp: 98 degrees
Max coolant temp: 85 degrees, mostly sat around 78 - 82 degrees
Max Oil pressure: about 50 psi, I wasn't watching this one as closely but it seems to be much higher while engine is cold then settles down to a range of between 18 - 22 psi.

Ambient temperature outside would have been only in the low 30's, but the coolant temp was particularly gratifying. This is with a new factory-style ZD plastic/alloy radiator and a shimmed DT79a thermostat for those who are interested.
Edit: fan is standard GQ issue, fan viscous hub cleaned out with 2 tubes of Toyota silicon oil in it. Also new TD42 fan shroud to suit wide radiator ($120 off eBay).

The new turbo boosted to max 10 psi exactly as promised by the manufacturer, maybe later I'll think about changing the springs in the wastegate when I get hungry for more boost... hmmm. It is an Arashi TD05H 16G large, BTW.

Gauges: Just look at that coolant temp. Love it.
519198


Still have a bit to do but at least it's driveable now. I am starting to feel guilty about scabbing lifts home to and from work all the time lol.
 
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