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Hey Grumpyone, I was going to get the machine shop to give it a bath for me, but now maybe i’ll have a look around for a tub I can submerge the block in...
Re: timing cover, I never thought of repairing it. I thought it was proper r**ted but i’ll re-assess. Found this hidden damage on the inside:
View attachment 513111
Certainly looks like the other owner was saving on coolant ! As an alternative to prepping the cover with acid,it could be media blasted if you have access to one.I have used beach sand for a "gentle "clean of alloy.Looks like some ferrous deposit in the upper right,pick it out with a scriber. Last time I shocked myself with the cover price it was several hundred $,have fun.

Cheers,G.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #22
Well I got that no. 6 cap out, it was very tight. Turns out all I needed was a better grip I. It so I could wiggle it out:
513125
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #23
Here are those bearing things on either side of no.6 main cap, just for those like me who hadn’t encountered them before. Sure hope I remember to put them back in 🙄
513126
 

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Wow, must have been a ****ta?!
Even with the old pos silver top I pulled apart for the block I didn’t snap a single stud.

You won’t forget about thrust washers. Clear as day they need to be installed. Grab new ones though.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #26
Wow, must have been a ****ta?!
Even with the old pos silver top I pulled apart for the block I didn’t snap a single stud.

You won’t forget about thrust washers. Clear as day they need to be installed. Grab new ones though.
Yeah Simcoe haven’t snapped any studs yet (touch wood) just had to weld f*kin nuts on nearly every single one, the ol’ double nut trick has only worked for me once -all the others it just stretched the threads!
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #27
All stripped down now and ready to send to the workshop for machining!
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The workshop will be doing the following for me:
Block: Remove sleeves, crack test, clean
Block: remove and fit can bearings
Block: surface block, refit sleeves, rebore and hone
Cylinder head: dismantle, chemically clean, crack test, surface, cut seats face valves, set valve depth, wash off and assemble
Crankshaft: acid bath, crack test, linish and measure
Conrods: check tunnels, remove and fit gudgeon pin bushes and machine.

I actually rang three places for a quote, they were all very knowledgeable and helpful but only one bothered to get back to me so at this stage it looks like he’s getting the business...
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #28
Well it's been a few weeks, haven't made much progress due to boring stuff like work getting in the way. I did send it all off to the big smoke to get the machining done, here's a pic of it all as I sent it just for interest's sake:
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A bloody good job I did packing it, too. I know how rough freight companies and forklift operators can be LOL!

On the down side, Old Mate the machinist tells me I should consider looking for a new crank, the rear is grooved where the RMS goes (pretty standard as I understand it) and the keyway at the front end is all chewed out for some reason. I did notice the keyway when I took the pulley & balancer off, but the key was undamaged and I didn't twig that it might be a problem... Guess I just assumed that if it was working before, it will work again. D'oh! :mad: Just one of them things, it could work again but should I take the risk... I am casting around for a decent 2nd hand one in the Townsville area and Old Mate is getting quotes to get the crank repaired.

Old mate also said the block had been hot from the look of it (I pretty much assumed that as a given), there was soot between the some of the liners and the parent bores. I assume that would explain the blow-by.
 

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My keyway had some damage and they just cut a full length slot for a solid key
Also the the groove at the back may just need a second gasket so the seal is on the new section of steel
 

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Discussion Starter #30
My keyway had some damage and they just cut a full length slot for a solid key
I have read of similar things being done, do you have any pics of what they did? I could suggest that to Old Mate.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Well things are moving along, the block & head have had their bath and the rebuild kit, welch plug kit (head and block), exhaust & inlet valves, turbo pre-combustion chambers have all been ordered... my credit card is in great pain. I went with the SMS Diesel premium rebuild kit (non-turbo, to rebuild to factory spec) simply because I cannot afford the turbo conversion kit at this time. A shame but I just couldn't justify or afford the extra 1800-odd dollars... I take comfort in all of the silvertop TD's out there with a turbo added that are still going hard.

Here are a couple of (disappointingly) low-res pics of my nice clean engine:

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Check out the pitting between the pre-combustion chamber and the valve seats in the 2nd and 4th photos. Me Old Mate says, "the pitting is normally from water in the combustion chamber, the exhaust ports show signs of in most cylinders also, fortunately it won't be a problem as it is not near the sealing area of the gasket area." Phew.

Here is the block:

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Re: crankshaft as discussed in previous posts, the quoted repair cost, while significant, was about the same as the cost of a second-hand crank (assuming the keyway on the replacement was OK but the sealing area on the rear of the replacement crank was also buggered and would need sleeving just like the original). In the end I told him to go ahead as a) it saves me a lot of stuffing around; b) it enabled me to order the rebuild kit as the original crank has already been measured up for bearings (all standard); c) it keeps the project moving along in a timely manner; and d) I'm already in deep and thoroughly committed...

@Jjjag2099 I did discuss your solutions with me Old Mate but he really wasn't very keen, it should be done properly. He seems very thorough which I suppose is a good thing. Still be keen to see your pics but.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Sorry for the delay machinist cut this in pretty snug fit I had slight damage but is all tight
Oh yeah I see it. That is a pretty neat solution. I’ll be interested to see how mine comes back.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Parts cleaning time. Wish I had one of them soda blaster things! Nothing like the smell of petrol in the morning though.
513603


513604
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #36
Found a replacement timing cover on Gumtree as I really wasn't that happy with the old one... For $125 posted it gives me some peace of mind. Here are some comparison pics for those who are interested, I have cleaned up the new(er) one a bit but haven't touched the old one.

Side by side

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Where the water pump goes, old on the left, new on the right...
Timing cover- old(1).jpg Timing cover- new(1).jpg

Where the lower thermostat housing bolts onto the top; old on the left, new on the right... turns out I also bent the top of the old one, around the rim where it is supposed to seal, trying to lever it off that f***n stud I posted a picture of me mucking around with in post #24. F F F. Trap for new players, that one.
Timing cover- old(2).jpg Timing cover- new(2).jpg

On the back where it goes into the water galleries; old on the left, new on the right...
Timing cover- old(3).jpg Timing cover- new(3).jpg

The new one isn't perfect but I reckn it's a hell of a lot better than the old one! Might still get some Devcon as was suggested earlier and tidy it up a bit...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
** Notes on budgeting for TD42 rebuild **

1. Plan exactly what you want to achieve before you start your build.

2. Get multiple quotes and prices for everything, work out every gasket, seal, nut and bolt you will need to replace. Allow for replacement bolts and studs particularly where they come into contact with coolant, in my experience. And the exhaust manifold studs goes without saying.

4. Allow a margin for things you hadn't thought of such as a bent conrod ($125 for a reco factory one, thank you very much SMS Diesel) or additional machining e.g. piston tops need machining for correct height because the block has already been decked once and you didn't know about it. 4-5 hrs labour at $XX/hr??

5. Add all of the above together and consider the figure very carefully. This is your best estimate.

6. Double your estimate. This is what it will cost you to rebuild your TD42.
 

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Thats how i work out my quotes usually about right, how long take, material and double, well for building industry and my speed on jobs lol
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Still waiting for Me Old Mate to finish doing his thing and get the motor back to me so I can finish building it. While I am waiting I can't help but think ahead a bit, all the steps that need to be done to get it into the GU (assuming I can get the motor back together and have no spare parts left over haha).
What I am wondering now is, when using the GQ TD42 gearbox crossmember, this moves the engine forward to give the correct engine placement and better clearance at the firewall for necessary things such as dump pipes etc. BUT this would also move the gearsticks forwards in the cabin too, no? Has anyone ever had any issues with this in a GU?
I am aware it's only about 20mm but I had a bit of a look in the cabin yesterday and it seems there's not a lot of room there... 20mm could mean me mashing my fingers into the dash everytime I change gears which would give me the ****s big time.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Bump. Anyone had issues with clearance using a QG gearbox crossmember in a GU?
 
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