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Discussion Starter #41
Well I got a bit excited today, my engine is heading back to me on a truck at the moment as I should be able to pick it up tomorrow! Woot woot!
So I hooked in and did a bit including a couple of nasty jobs I’ve been avoiding for a while... namely the horrible baked on rock-hard gasket on the timing cover backing plate. A couple of hours of scraping away with a razor blade sorted it out though.

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I also attacked the rusty bit where the coolant goes through it with some fine wet and dry sandpaper, on the basis that it would never seal against the o-ring as it was. Unfortunately perhaps the fine wet and dry wasn’t fine enough and it scratched the plate a bit, so off to the hardware to buy some much finer paper. Dammit.

I also tidied up the sump. Just after I started, when I remembered to take a photo, it looked like this:
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29 years of baked on oil and dirt, just for me. Once I got sick of the wire brush and petrol method, I got real and went grinder and wire wheel. 👌
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Once the outside was more or less sorted, I used paint stripper to get rid of the paint in the inside of the sump, little bits of which where clogging up the oil pickup when I pulled it apart.

If there is any part of a car that does not need painting, surely it would be the inside of the sump. Fer chrissake.
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It actually took a couple of goes with the paint stripper to get all of the paint out of the nooks and crannies inside the sump. I had to use steel wool to scrub the stubborn bits off, once the stripper had soaked in, being careful of course to remove all of the little bits of steel wool that fell off afterward. In hindsight a plastic scourer would have been better but I only thought of that after I had started.

The paint stripper was so satisfying I did the outside of the sump as well.
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Then I degreased it, applied a couple of coats of matte black and it looks like factory!! Apart from the dents.
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I reckon i’ll do the block and head in the matte as well, it looks cool. Maybe i’ll tell people it’s Tactical Black? 😂😂

One more sleep. I get my engine back tomorrow!!
 

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Discussion Starter #42
It’s finally here. Had to be a bit creative with getting it unloaded, the winch comes in handy once again...

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Here’s some engine porn...
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Oh yeah.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Found out why there was oil in the coolant I think... one of the nuts holding the oil cooler to the housing wasn’t even tight and it just fell open, despite the grey gasket goo.
513923
 

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I Have Imaginary Friends
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Take every win.
 

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Gu and gq td42 and tb45/tb42 crossmembers are all dimensionally the same so are the gu boxes. So the shifter is fine. You will need to cut the support off the chassis that bolts to the crossmember to fit the gq crossmember. Also put a hefty sized turbo oil drain in your sump while its off.

I hope you got the throttle pedal and cable from the gq aswell.

In regards to radiators after rebuilding the engine its absolute madness not to fit a new 1. An adrad stock replacement for a td is around $350 then roughly $100 for shroud. Then use the lower bottle of the zd overflow/ header tank.

Worst part of the job is cutting the zd engine mounts off lol.

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Discussion Starter #48
Hey @hz_350 thanks that’s handy to know it will go in alright. I am not up to pulling the GU crossmember out yet, I have read lots of conversion threads that mention the bit you have to cut off but I haven’t eyeballed one myself yet.

Re: radiator, I have two options - the near-new radiator that came out of the donor car, or re-using the zd radiator. I replaced that one only last year because I snapped off the bloody plastic overflow pipe on the old one. I was actually leaning towards the latter.

And yep, the pedal and throttle cable are still safely bolted into the donor car where I can’t lose them, until the time comes.
 

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Hey @hz_350 thanks that’s handy to know it will go in alright. I am not up to pulling the GU crossmember out yet, I have read lots of conversion threads that mention the bit you have to cut off but I haven’t eyeballed one myself yet.

Re: radiator, I have two options - the near-new radiator that came out of the donor car, or re-using the zd radiator. I replaced that one only last year because I snapped off the bloody plastic overflow pipe on the old one. I was actually leaning towards the latter.

And yep, the pedal and throttle cable are still safely bolted into the donor car where I can’t lose them, until the time comes.
Is your radiator in the zd one of those alloy replacement ones? If its not using the zd stuff isnt too much dram just need to put a t peice in a heater hose to connect to the bottom of the header tank

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Is your radiator in the zd one of those alloy replacement ones? If its not using the zd stuff isnt too much dram just need to put a t peice in a heater hose to connect to the bottom of the header tank
No it’s a genuine Nissan one I think, plastic top jobbie. Nuthin but the best 👍🏻👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Had a few hours to myself this arvo so I finished cleaning up the oil cooler and reassembled it. Then I unwrapped the big girl...
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Just beautiful.
Pistons, rods and crankshaft are all in and torqued up. Me and the little helpers started knocking the welch plugs in, got most of them done but we buggered up one of the little ones on the top deck, so it’ll have to come out tomorrow. I am using Locktite No. 3 non-hardening aviation gasket with the plugs to help seal them.
 

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Looks nice and shiny. Back in the olden days I needed a new welsh plug, a slightly domed penny did the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Well did a bit today, but overall a disappointing lack of progress... removed fudged Welch plug and replaced, installed cam shaft and cam retaining plate, installed oil squirters, installed a few set screws on the sides of the block near the front end and then got stuck.
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  • Didn’t have any Vaseline to pack the oil pump so I couldn’t put it on
  • Didn’t have any masking tape so I couldn’t mask the block for painting
  • Didn’t manage to get hold of an engine crane to get the block off the stand so I could do the welch plugs and rear main seal at the rear end
In the end I amused myself by stripping the paint off the rocker cover in preparation for painting, and then had a beer or two.
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I just can’t decide whether to paint it in Tactical (matte) Black or metallic silver. Decisions, decisions. At least tomorrow the shops will be open so I can get some stuff.
 

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I like black but isn't red faster :cool:
 

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LOL 1 vote for black then... what about the rest of youse
Black is fine but don't do it in matte, it will look sh!te in very short order. Also don't do gloss as cheap gloss out of a rattle can looks cheap and tacky. So satin black if you stick to black.

Just my opinion and experience with black.

I'm tossing up a colour on mine to lighten the engine bay a little maybe titanium but you could go wrinkle black to be a little different.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Black is fine but don't do it in matte, it will look sh!te in very short order. Also don't do gloss as cheap gloss out of a rattle can looks cheap and tacky. So satin black if you stick to black.

Just my opinion and experience with black.

I'm tossing up a colour on mine to lighten the engine bay a little maybe titanium but you could go wrinkle black to be a little different.
Yeah but the only hi-temp paint my local hardware shop has is the matte black. Will normal aerosol paint be ok on an engine block?
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Ok back into it again today. Just as a warm up, is anyone able to tell me what these things are please? They came in the rebuild kit and I don’t remember seeing anything like them when I pulled it apart.
There are 14 of the rubber coated washer things and 6 of the bushing-type things.

Edit: for those who might find themselves in the same predicament, I did end up finding out what these are.

The rubber coated washer things go under the bolts that hold the rocker cover on. I didn't recognize them because half of the bolts didn't have them when I pulled it apart, and on the ones that did have them, they were fingered.

The bushing type things on the right are the injector nozzle holders that sit in the head under the injectors. I didn't recognize them because I left them in the head when I sent it off to be reco'd, I didn't realise they were in there :rolleyes:

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