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2001 GU ST TD42t coil cab (gold)
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Yeah but the only hi-temp paint my local hardware shop has is the matte black. Will normal aerosol paint be ok on an engine block?
It would handle the heat but not likely last with any oil or fuel spills. Sorry I assumed you had access to a decent range like Autobarn or Supercheap or a paint shop.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #62
It would handle the heat but not likely last with any oil or fuel spills. Sorry I assumed you had access to a decent range like Autobarn or Supercheap or a paint shop.
Nope, only a little Mitre 10 here. I'm going to go with the Satin Black, as has been suggested, it is a silicone paint designed for BBQ's etc. so it should be right. If the paint can't handle it and starts peeling off, well, it'll just match the rest of the car :whistle:
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #63
Time to post another update.

Had a pretty good crack at it last week, managed to get hold of an engine crane and removed the block from the stand so I could get at the rear main seal. I found the seal quite difficult to remove from the housing, in the end I supported the edges of the housing on a couple of blocks of wood and used a punch to knock the seal out from the inside. I did try the method I read about somewhere on this forum, whereby a self-tapping screw is drilled into the metal part of the seal to be used as an removal aid, but I found the metal part of the seal (under the flexible coating) slopes back towards the sealing surface of the housing. So every time I tried to drill a hole the drill bit crept towards the sealing surface, despite using a centre punch. Not happy Jan.

So after an hour of mucking around with that, I installed the rear main and the welch plugs at the rear of the motor. Then it was back onto the stand and ready for a good head job.

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Checkin' it's at TDC before installation of head, as per workshop manual
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Head on! Tensioning it up:
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Then I got the lifters and pushrods in, was feeling pretty good and thinking I'd have the top all sealed up by the end of the day. Unfortunately things are never that easy, as when I picked up the rocker assembly I realized I probly should have looked at it closely when I pulled it apart.

Rockers2.jpg Rockers3.jpg Rockers4.jpg

Those wear pads are well and truly worn out; so badly that even I am not going to put them back on. So now I am on the hunt for a good second-hand rocker assembly (because new ones are $70 each from Patrolapart, which doesn't sound bad when you only need one. but I need 12).

So I had to pull up at that point on the head, I installed the oil pump and then I ran out of daylight. When I had finished, It was finally looking like an engine.

514072
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #64
Yesterday I was feeling generous to myself so I lashed out and ordered a Safari Tuff clutch, and a set of new injectors. I was also feeling I couldn't really put it off for too much longer.

The clutch price was $501.00 delivered on ebay, but ebay had a discount code that gave me $50 off due to some sort of promotion!

I also got the $50 off on the injectors from Hi-Tech Diesel Injection down in SA; their price was $510 for the injectors, less $180 core return, less $50 ebay discount = $280. I couldn't believe it. I rang them, they seemed legit, and they told me they only use Zexel or OEM parts on their injectors so I am optimistic about them.
 

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nissan
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The rockers are $12.24aud on partsouq.com. They have plenty of stock. So around $150 plus shipping for a new genuine set.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #67
Well it turns out partsouq is HEAPS cheaper than buying local. Rockers were about US$14-15 each plus about $30 postage. Still, all up a full set was about AU$330 including freight.
Being a tight**** I ended up buying a 2nd hand rocker assembly that came up on fb, $118 and it’s in the mail. Pics indicate it’s in good condition... I’ll see when it gets here. It would be hard for it to be worse than mine lol

1273CEC0-3BD1-43DA-A489-8C29ECA6169B.png 6A381E23-1ECD-48A4-86CB-C152F1367247.png
 

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nissan
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Partsouq is good when the dollar is good but i still buy there because fast post. I got a clutch master a few weeks ago ordered on monday lunch arrived on friday

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #70
You can get the rocker arms machined aswell
Yeah bloke I asked Me Old Mate the engine machinist about that, he said it could be done but the wear pads above the valves are hard faced. Once they wear through that it is a complicated and expensive process to fix it so easier and cheaper to buy new.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #71
Have got a bit done over the last couple of days. Spent a whole morning masking off the block ready for painting. I used grease for the welch plugs and mounting points for the engine brackets etc., hopefully I should be able to just wipe the paint off those.

8CC9AAA5-C068-4254-85E0-7B7F23F64591.jpeg 1B1FFB68-0087-40C6-ABA4-76A1737EE31C.jpeg

I was going to just sit the rocker cover on top and finish the rockers later, but then the second-hand set arrived in the mail! So I thought I’d quickly bolt them on, bolt the rocker cover on, then paint it. Easy.
Before clean up:
09A40368-949C-4D5B-BD52-8DC673DC0D69.jpeg After: 165CC3D7-7695-449D-9B85-3E591CAF1036.jpeg

Lol. Nothing is ever easy. While the new one overall was better, I decided to mix and match components to get the best of both. This took a lot longer than it should have as some of the brackets that hold the rockers onto the head were tight as **** and needed lots of persuasion to come off/go back on. Anyway finally got it done, but not bolted on yet.
Interestingly, on both rocker assemblies the exhaust rockers were worn heaps more than the intake ones.

Finally I slapped a coat of paint in the block to round out the day yesterday. Note the colour everyone who helped me decide earlier 😁

514253
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #72
Had a lucky escape today... this is off the timing idler gear. I was just thinking it didn’t feel right, should be tight by now... then it let go.

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I couldn’t believe the bloody thing came out in one piece.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #74
Got a bit more done over the last couple of days. Rockers bolted on and gapped, IP on and timed, cleaned up and painted a few bits and pieces.
My new clutch arrived today in the post too! I really feel like I am nearly at the end.... I am probably not but I live in hope.

Here’re some progress pics.

E310E0D9-1E02-4E84-AF04-FAD8DFED870B.jpeg 855BCC49-E97E-4A45-940E-2B222A755038.jpeg 0B968A7D-8DA1-4E3E-B797-300BBFB6D13B.jpeg A4AA0CB9-6841-4B24-A576-0743F1FC39BB.jpeg
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #75
I learned a lesson that I thought I would share as I was finishing up the other day... I managed to drop one of those tiny copper injector nozzle washers through the head and the pre-combustion chamber, so it was sitting on top of the piston. I had to say a few colourful words.
The washer was just visible down the hole, but after fishing around for an hour with a fine bit of wire I had to give up for the day, devastated. I couldn’t see it any more, I’d even turned the engine upside-down to try and get it that way.

After a bit of a think, after work this arvo I turned the crank over, had another look down the hole and whaddaya know...

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Then I did what I should have done the first time, which was putting something sticky on the end of a bit of wire and voila!

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I’ve said it before- there is nothing you can’t do with a good bit of wire! 👌

To top off a good day, my orders from partsouq (engine mounts, weld-on bracket and harmonic dampener) and patrolapart (weld-on engine bracket, long studs for water pump) arrived! Winning!
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #76
Had to stop work on the engine for a few days because I have to go to work :(. It doesn't stop me thinking about what I want to be doing though, so I have a couple of questions someone might be able to help me with? Just thinking ahead a bit for when I get to drop it into the engine bay finally.

1. Glow plugs. Can I use the ZD30 glow plug circuit, so the timing, glow plug light etc. all works as it did with the original motor? Does using the original circuit cause any problems? Only reasn I am asking is because I have read a lot of threads where people seem to use aftermarket timers or momentary switches to get the plugs to glow. Not sure if this is only the TB42/TB45 -> TD42 crowd or ZD conversions as well. The one thread that seems to suggest the ZD glow plug wiring will go straight on is Bexi's conversion thread (https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/bexis-td42-into-gu-conversion.74375/page-5)

2. Tacho signal. I have ordered a Dakota Digital SGI-8 as many people seem to have had great success with them and they seem fairly straightforward. However in all the threads they say cut the wire from pin "x" and run it to the module, I have searched and searched but cannot for the life of me find a wiring diagram so I know what pin is what. Also where would I look for the physical location of the pins- in the engine bay, behind the dash? Any photos would be nice if someone has one handy, just so I know what to look for...

3. Oil pressure light. On the many threads I have read, using the oil pressure sender from under the ZD30 turbo seems to be the go. Is it possible or desirable to use both of the ZD30 oil pressure senders, so the oil light etc. will work?
 

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Nissan MK,GQ & now GU.
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Had to stop work on the engine for a few days because I have to go to work :(. It doesn't stop me thinking about what I want to be doing though, so I have a couple of questions someone might be able to help me with? Just thinking ahead a bit for when I get to drop it into the engine bay finally.

1. Glow plugs. Can I use the ZD30 glow plug circuit, so the timing, glow plug light etc. all works as it did with the original motor? Does using the original circuit cause any problems? Only reasn I am asking is because I have read a lot of threads where people seem to use aftermarket timers or momentary switches to get the plugs to glow. Not sure if this is only the TB42/TB45 -> TD42 crowd or ZD conversions as well. The one thread that seems to suggest the ZD glow plug wiring will go straight on is Bexi's conversion thread (https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/bexis-td42-into-gu-conversion.74375/page-5)

2. Tacho signal. I have ordered a Dakota Digital SGI-8 as many people seem to have had great success with them and they seem fairly straightforward. However in all the threads they say cut the wire from pin "x" and run it to the module, I have searched and searched but cannot for the life of me find a wiring diagram so I know what pin is what. Also where would I look for the physical location of the pins- in the engine bay, behind the dash? Any photos would be nice if someone has one handy, just so I know what to look for...

3. Oil pressure light. On the many threads I have read, using the oil pressure sender from under the ZD30 turbo seems to be the go. Is it possible or desirable to use both of the ZD30 oil pressure senders, so the oil light etc. will work?
Pity Leethal is not here any more he would be able to answer your questions. Maybe have a look at his build thread?

A mate has finished this same conversion for a customer last week, about his sixth now I have messaged him your questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Pity Leethal is not here any more he would be able to answer your questions. Maybe have a look at his build thread?

A mate has finished this same conversion for a customer last week, about his sixth now I have messaged him your questions.
Cheers Haggie, much appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I had set myself the goal this week of doing a little bit every day after work, but everything takes longer than you think it will...It took me 2 afternoons to get the water pump on as all of the bolts were rusty (of course) so I had to run the die over them all to clean them up, then I couldn't find the nuts from the long studs through the water pump (remembered later they are welded to what is left of the old studs) so had to scratch around in my nuts & bolts trays for something that would fit... found some, but had to clean out the threads on those too as they were too tight to go over the studs. Then when I was trial fitting the bolts I discovered that the thread for one of the water pump bolts on the timing cover was all chewed up (this is the 2nd-hand cover I bought, so I know it wasn't me that did it!) so I had to re-tap that as well to clean it up.

Finally got the pump on after all that, once it was done the alternator bracket and one of the belt tensioners went on quick and easy.
514455


The bolt hole that had the buggered up thread is that one right at the top of the water pump, as I was doing it up it felt as if there wasn't enough meat on the old thread to hold it. I'm not happy with it and so will probably have to drill it out and re-tap it for a bigger size bolt.

Also for anyone else doing this in the future, the nuts on the long water pump studs are M10 x 1.25. The nuts commonly found at hardware shops (mine, at least) are M10 x 1.5 and won't bloody fit.
 

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I learned a lesson that I thought I would share as I was finishing up the other day... I managed to drop one of those tiny copper injector nozzle washers through the head and the pre-combustion chamber, so it was sitting on top of the piston. I had to say a few colourful words.
The washer was just visible down the hole, but after fishing around for an hour with a fine bit of wire I had to give up for the day, devastated. I couldn’t see it any more, I’d even turned the engine upside-down to try and get it that way.

After a bit of a think, after work this arvo I turned the crank over, had another look down the hole and whaddaya know...



Then I did what I should have done the first time, which was putting something sticky on the end of a bit of wire and voila!



I’ve said it before- there is nothing you can’t do with a good bit of wire! 👌

To top off a good
Haha good fun dropping things into places you cant reach.
I taped a big magnet to the end of my finger to fish something out of a bellhousing that i could not quite get.
Took me about an hour of trying all sorts of hooks and wire combinations.
 
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