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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #81
Haha good fun dropping things into places you cant reach.
I taped a big magnet to the end of my finger to fish something out of a bellhousing that i could not quite get.
Took me about an hour of trying all sorts of hooks and wire combinations.
Ha ha yeah it's a bastard, this one would have been a lot easier if copper was magnetic!
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #82
Started off with the upper and lower thermostat housing today. Spent a fair bit of time linishing the sealing surfaces with some wet & dry as they were scratched to the ****house by who ever played with it previously. Then I installed gaskets, gasket sealant etc. and assembled it twice because the first time I found the long bolt that goes down through the housing wouldn’t go in. I thought the thread was buggered or gunk was in the hole but it turns out the bolt was just too long.
Lesson: test fit everything before assembly.
Installed my three aftermarket sensors (oil temp, oil pressure and water temp), engine mount brackets then installed all the fuel lines from the pump.
I don’t feel like there are many parts left to bolt on, but everything takes ages - cleaning up every thread, cleaning/degreasing all the stuff that bolts on, getting sidetracked and installing more LED lights in the shed to improve visibility 😁

Here are some pics. Installing water temp sensor:
9E6FF2B1-DFD5-466E-8608-E1E529534E2F.jpeg

Oil temp sensor (location suggested by someone on this forum, I think it was Oldmav). This plug seemed to have a slight weep from around it but buggered if I could get it out with the Allen key. So I just drilled it out and put the sensor in anyway.

5590EF72-79D8-4563-90A9-F28D79CEB979.jpeg

Oil pressure sensor. Not sure i’m Happy with the tee setup but it was cheap and it’s done now. Will just have to be careful not to snap the bugger off when I drop it into the troll!

9B22D04C-0E08-4F4F-9803-6B5DD0EBE8F4.jpeg

Front end and induction side.
F03D2EAA-F417-49EE-AA93-7731E1600458.jpeg 00F9BDE6-420F-4911-941E-F3DB0FE1A74F.jpeg
 

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nissan gq
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Started off with the upper and lower thermostat housing today. Spent a fair bit of time linishing the sealing surfaces with some wet & dry as they were scratched to the ****house by who ever played with it previously. Then I installed gaskets, gasket sealant etc. and assembled it twice because the first time I found the long bolt that goes down through the housing wouldn’t go in. I thought the thread was buggered or gunk was in the hole but it turns out the bolt was just too long.
Lesson: test fit everything before assembly.
Installed my three aftermarket sensors (oil temp, oil pressure and water temp), engine mount brackets then installed all the fuel lines from the pump.
I don’t feel like there are many parts left to bolt on, but everything takes ages - cleaning up every thread, cleaning/degreasing all the stuff that bolts on, getting sidetracked and installing more LED lights in the shed to improve visibility 😁

Here are some pics. Installing water temp sensor:
View attachment 514547

Oil temp sensor (location suggested by someone on this forum, I think it was Oldmav). This plug seemed to have a slight weep from around it but buggered if I could get it out with the Allen key. So I just drilled it out and put the sensor in anyway.

View attachment 514548

Oil pressure sensor. Not sure i’m Happy with the tee setup but it was cheap and it’s done now. Will just have to be careful not to snap the bugger off when I drop it into the troll!

View attachment 514549

Front end and induction side.
View attachment 514551 View attachment 514552
If you haven't fitted it,knock the dents out of the sump [it will hold more oil (y) ] other wise every time you are underneath,you will wish you had,and it will look kinda professional,don't forget to braze on a -10 male fitting to take the future turbo drain about 40mm below the gasket flange on the sump,half-way between bolts.

Cheers,G.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #84
If you haven't fitted it,knock the dents out of the sump [it will hold more oil (y) ] other wise every time you are underneath,you will wish you had,and it will look kinda professional,don't forget to braze on a -10 male fitting to take the future turbo drain about 40mm below the gasket flange on the sump,half-way between bolts.

Cheers,G.
Hey Grumpyone, good idea I will try and bash some of the dents out, hadn’t thought of that. I haven’t fitted it yet so it’s not a problem.
I do have a fitting ready to be welded on for turbo drain! It usually goes between 5th and 6th bolt holes or something doesn’t it?
 

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nissan
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That old big black oil sender can go in the bin. You will need to fit the zd 1 for the light

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #86
That old big black oil sender can go in the bin. You will need to fit the zd 1 for the light

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Oh yeah good one. I should have realised that 🤪
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Got a bit done today. First I bolted my manifold on. Was going to leave it off to make doing the engine brackets on the chassis easier but couldn't wait, the hot side of the engine looked so bare. Much better now. Then I clocked the turbo, but had to mod the bracket for the wastegate actuator. I didn't worry about making it pretty, I cbf- it works. Finally, I pulled the power steering pump apart because anything that oily HAD to be leaking somewhere. The rebuild kit is in on its way...

Pics:

IMG_1692.JPG IMG_1693.JPG IMG_1695.JPG IMG_1698.JPG

Aaaand a big pile of parts that used to be a power steering pump. I started a new thread for that job (https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/td42-power-steering-pump-rebuild-v-2.409321/#post-6985542).

514617
514618
 

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Hey Grumpyone, good idea I will try and bash some of the dents out, hadn’t thought of that. I haven’t fitted it yet so it’s not a problem.
I do have a fitting ready to be welded on for turbo drain! It usually goes between 5th and 6th bolt holes or something doesn’t it?
Just looked at mine,between 3rd and 4th bolt from the back,centre about 45mm below gasket flange,

Cheers,G.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
Made up a drip tray for the oil filters today out of a bit of scrap 25 x 50 x 2.5mm RHS I had lying around... I cut the top off it to make a channel, whacked some ends on it then down to the local hardware to see what sort of hose fittings I could use. I ended up with a gal reducer and a brass hose tail; I trimmed most of the reducer off and welded it to the tray. A bit rough but it’ll work I reckon 👍🏻
F6CC1D9A-0173-489C-9A9E-73D6B09BAF2B.jpeg 3B3D6B10-F202-4B59-9559-89249C14E011.jpeg 8E4E53E1-439D-42C2-AD59-22FD645F9BFA.jpeg

I angled the threaded fitting back towards the block to give as much room for the starter motor as possible.
BF61B13D-2035-40F9-9DBB-B80040DBE963.jpeg

Custom silicone work to encourage the oil to drip into the tray, not run down the oil cooler:
05A1E399-21E0-4704-A0A4-626DC4554683.jpeg

Full credit to Chicken for the inspiration for this job.

Painted up and ready to go on: 0F9C440E-4C67-428C-AE84-D9B2F2A00325.jpeg

Don’t look to closely at the welds ha ha!

Well that’s about all I’m gonna get done until after Chrissy what with holiday duties and all. I am pretty pleased with the progress though and am on track to start the ZD-TD conversion itself after New Years. 🍻
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #90
G’day all, back home and back into it... I’ll try and keep it brief but I have parked up the patrol with the ZD30 and started stripping the engine bay, as well as gotten onto me mate who is a TIG artist to weld a fitting into the sump for the turbo drain. Not sure if I have all the bits to complete turbo setup so my backup plan is to commission the vehicle as NA and do the turbo later.

Over yesterday and today I have:
  • removed intercooler and intake piping
  • disconnected power steering pump and set the pipe work aside, I reckon it’ll bolt straight on to the TD with luck
  • disconnected both engine looms- this took a long time as there are a LOT of plugs and I labelled them all, not sure what I’ll do about all the plugs I won’t need but i’ll sort that out afterwards
  • undone the bolts on the engine mounts- for anyone doing the ZD-TD swap, on the TD it was a piece of piss to lift up the engine a bit, remove the mounts and lower it to provide access to the top two bellhousing bolts at the rear. On the ZD, I tried jacking up the engine but I just could not get the driver’s side mount to come free. Research suggests the best way to access the top bellhousing bolts on the ZD is to unbolt the gearbox crossmember and lower the gearbox, then use socket extensions to undo the bolts via the gearstick hole in the transmission tunnel. I will be trying this tomorrow.
  • removed front seats and centre console to facilitate bellhousing bolts as per above
  • probably some other stuff.
Here are some progress photos just for fun, cheers all!
1D366D99-208B-42EB-A5D4-FE73BF83E493.jpeg 960991AF-A645-4074-AE36-25A4A24D382B.jpeg 02143759-8796-48A1-A46C-F8B702D33791.jpeg 6FCFEA46-7E1E-4825-8399-6ED3D38C6D6C.jpeg

Here’s my workshop for the swap, at least there is some grass (had a shower of rain the other day) but most of my time under the troll I’m rolling in the dirt:
D6AE3F64-476D-4C91-A309-107CC6558C54.jpeg

👍🏻Fun fun fun!
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #91
Spent ALL DAY yesterday getting the top two bellhousing bolts out. Lessons:
* lowering the gearbox until the rear tail shaft rests on the chassis crossmember does not provide enough clearance to get at the bellhousing bolts. The rear tail shaft must be removed.
*when re-attaching the gearbox crossmember, the bolts holes may not line up correctly ( I think this may be due to the weight of the transfer case hanging off one side). This had me stumped for a long time as one of the 4 bolts on each side wouldn’t go in. In the end I left them out as i’m changing to the GQ crossmember anyway, when I get up to it.
*I found the crossmember brace/bracket on the driver’s side, it is secured to the crossmember by 3 small bolts (one on the top that I didn’t find for a while-see pic). I believe this has to be cut off to make the GQ crossmember fit.
*You need a lot of extensions to reach the bellhousing bolts.
3319DBE0-CD87-4052-92BB-13FA64433765.jpeg CFA8E989-093D-4C93-872A-FEF44D7BE418.jpeg

Edit: actually come to think of it wasn’t quite all day as I did spend a couple of hours collecting my sump (with new oil drain) and bolting that on. But it felt like all day.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Spent yesterday morning making up some lifting brackets for the ZD30. Turns out the rear TD42 lifting bracket will fit on the front of the ZD30 but I had to remove the metal heater hose pipework to get it on, and I had to remove the turbo to get that metal pipework off. It was a PITA.
515184


The rear bracket I made up out of a bit of scrap 5mm flat bar. I kept it short to reduce the chance of it bending too much. The attachment point for that one was also a PITA.

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I found the recommended lifting points on another thread here. I didn’t use exactly the same front lift points as I didn’t like the idea of having all that weight on a little alloy ledge right at the top of the head. Also because the TD one bolted on. Factory ZD lift points:

515186


I am all set up for the lift now and waiting for me old mate to turn up and give me a hand...
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Well in addition to getting the ZD out, got the crossmember changed over today for the GQ TD one and changed the tailshafts to the GQ ones. I also removed the ZD bellhousing and the TD one from the GQ donor box (both very easy jobs, nothing to worry about for anyone considering this just 6 bolts and a bit of a jiggle plus the throw out thingy) but have to change the throw out bearing. It isn’t obvious how this is best accomplished so I will have to research it.

Lessons from today:

1. This is why the bracket above the ZD crossmember needs to be removed (note the gap where, because of the bracket, the crossmember won’t touch the chassis):
40F1DD3A-8B0E-4686-8727-A9C65FE58B72.jpeg

2. If your tail shafts are already disconnected, and the front of the gearbox is NOT jacked up to the approximate location it should be when the engine is attached, this will happen and it may cause you some momentary confusion and or frustration (gear sticks hitting trans tunnel when they shouldn’t due to front of gearbox being too low):

B8C6CAFD-A35D-4041-85C6-04B5389DAA46.jpeg

However I can reassure you that the GQ TD crossmember, ZD box combination WILL work without modifying your trans tunnel. I only doubted it for a moment 😳.

Tomorrow, planning on removing old engine mounts and test fitting engine without clutch etc. so I can weld the new mounts on. 🤞
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Fitted TD bellhousing this morning and changed the throw out bearing- I found this video very useful:

The relevant bit starts at around 06:30. It was actually pretty easy, I just used a socket to knock it out.

After that it was time to break out the grinder and remove the old engine mounts. This was time consuming and a 5-inch grinder makes it heaps easier than the little 4-inch I started with, just for the extra reach the cutting disc has.

I had a mate help me test fit the engine (without clutch) to position the mounts, so it’s finally in! Haven’t welded them in yet, that’s a job for tomorrow. Finally feel like I’m getting somewhere.

515264
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Engine in today!

515276


Tore up my backyard with the forklift but it is worth it. It all went pretty well, the only useful tips I can think of from today are:
1) When doing the GQ to GU conversion, and you use new weld-on GU 4-bolt mounts, you will need extra bolts because the GQ only had bloody 2 bolts in each mount. It sounds obvious now, doesn’t it?
2) The engine is actually tilted a fair way towards the rear of the vehicle, so my oil catch tray won’t drain very well. Should have been tilted a LOT more towards the front. It’s on now, so too bad.
3) I had to unbolt the steering knuckle thing and slide it along the spline towards the cabin to get it out of the way for welding the new mount on the driver’s side. See left-hand side of the photo below.
515277
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Have accomplished quite a bit yesterday and today. Power steering, main battery, cooling system, fan belts and the wiring loom are all done. I had to modify the ZD radiator shroud a bit to fit the TD fan as the TD shroud was for a different sized radiator- I didn’t think of that. It looks rough but it’ll do for now- I used the top section of the TD shroud to get the height.
A430F8D8-F563-4906-AE38-F40AE07F699B.jpeg 2AA88BD0-A04A-46A7-AE7B-5452196583D9.jpeg

I also swapped the GQ pedal over. This was simple enough but the ZD one was very difficult to get out due to lack of space. Once you finally do get it unbolted, there is this plate up against the firewall:
611D720B-BE45-4A25-ACC3-E53A90A14BBE.jpeg
Remove it and there is a hole for the throttle cable, just like that!
026D771A-2DDF-4C65-BBF0-E13840200DEB.jpeg

I had to bend the bottom part of the GQ pedal forwards a bit, and the top part a bit to the right (so the cable lines up with the hole properly) in the areas indicated on the photo. ZD pedal for comparison.
1AC4ABCD-D9F1-460A-89C5-C427C308D91B.jpeg

The wiring loom took ages, as I pulled it all into the engine bay and I picked it apart to remove all the surplus wires. I could have just cut the plugs off but meh.
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Finally, I removed the pulleys from the GQ and ZD aircon compressors. The centre nut I just rattled off, then I tapped the holes and used bolts to push the cover off the spline. The ZD one already had threads but I didn’t have any bolts small enough so I drilled them out and re-tapped them.

GQ aircon compressor:
5BCE5879-8D57-44C0-897D-1FF428ED0062.jpeg BD9F0E9C-2E5C-4D4C-A86D-A1C987AC035B.jpeg

ZD aircon compressor:
F1D219CD-BFC1-40DB-8EFF-A374CF15E48A.jpeg CA9E40AF-CC7F-4104-9D69-C6EDEAE01C38.jpeg

I am hoping I should be able to just swap the pulleys over and I won’t have to de-gas/re-gas the aircon. The piping might be a problem but I’ll deal with that later. The next problem is the compressor mount, which is different, so tomorrow it’s out with the welder again to make it work. 👍🏻😁
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Well, all play has been suspended at the moment due to rain so I thought I’d post another update. Spent all morning stuffing around with wiring under the dash to get my new oil pressure, oil temp, and coolant temp gauges working. I mounted a pod on the dash with a couple of screws and ran the wires in some black conduit tucked under the back of the dash, against the windscreen, across to the driver’s side pillar and down. I cut a hole in the dash mat and I reckon it looks pretty tidy.
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I also installed the throttle idle control thing. I had to improvise here because there was already a hole and it was too big, so I used a bit of thin steel plate to cover the hole and give the knob something to bolt onto.
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All the wires hanging down I couldn’t do anything with today as I had run out of zippy ties and the hardware shop was shut.

After that I tackled the aircon compressors, I though I was off to a good start when I used this setup to get the pulleys off both compressors. This would have been a lot easier if they weren’t both attached to the vehicles, but anyway.

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Unfortunately it was all for nothing as the magnets underneath were different sizes. So I removed the magnets only to find the GQ one wouldn’t fit straight onto the GU compressor and at that point I gave up, re-assembled both compressors and resigned myself to getting the de-gassed and swapping the over. It was worth a try though!

This is the magnet off the GU compressor, it was held on with screws while the GQ one was held with a circlip.

515424


That’s it for today, going to have a beer now.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
It's running!! Put in a couple of massive days with a mate helping me, we did the following:

  • fabricated a dump pipe out bits of the combined GQ/ZD exhaust systems, plus a bit of 10mm plate for the rear of the turbo
  • mounted the intercooler and plumbed it up
  • modified the adapter flange from the manifold to the turbo so it would actually fit, and mounted the turbo
  • cobbled together the air intake piping out of the ZD intake and the bits left over from the intercooler pipework kit I bought on ebay. Had to blank off a big hole in the ZD pipe that used to go after the bit with the MAF sensor with the lid from an old glass jar and some silicon, but it worked!
  • The local Pirtek bloke visited and made up turbo oil feed and drain piping for me.
We finished at about 8:30pm in the rain, but after we had bled the injectors it fired and ran smooth as silk- I even impressed myself! Couldn't keep the grin off my face. Unfortunately I didn't take any good pics of the finished setup to share here but will get some and post them up. We did have one minor setback when we accidentally earthed the big wire from the battery to the alternator while trying to connect it, and it blew 2 of the 100A main fuses. Note to self: disconnect the battery next time.

Here are some pics for youse.
turbo flange1.jpg intercooler2.jpg intercooler3.jpg intercooler1.jpg

I do still have a few things to do though;

1) Aircon. I need new hoses so the GQ compressor can join up to the rest of the ZD system.
2) Intercooler setup works, but it isn't ideal... I should have bought an intercooler with both inlet and outlet on the same side I think. Also to get it under the existing bonnet scoop it sits right on top of the air inlet in the inlet manifold, and that big 180deg bend sits on top of the clutch slave. Need to get a bigger scoop and cut a hole for it.
3) Re-install second battery
4) Install heater hoses, when they get here (I have just looped them together and tee'd the ZD overflow bottle into it for the moment)
4) It seems to be running hot. I swapped both the ZD temp senders into the TD, and I have my aftermarket sender; the ZD temp gauge reads nothing as far as I can see and the aftermarket one sits above 100deg (see pic below). The aftermarket one does NOT have a matching gauge and sender though, I pulled the gauge out of the GQ and I bought the sender for it on ebay (generic). I have ordered a new SAAS gauge + sender today.
5) Send the fuel screw. It doesn't blow any smoke whatsoever at start up or under throttle; does this mean it is perhaps running a bit lean and therefore too hot? Do I need to adjust the timing? I set it at 0.70 from memory, as I had read here that was a good number for a turbo'd TD.

The pic below is after driving it around for a bit, unfortunately I didn't have time yesterday to take it for a proper drive to run it in but I drove it around town, up and down through the gears and the rev range and as many hills as I could find (not many here). The oil pressure gauge does work, that pic was taken at idle

gauges1.jpg

There is probably more to do but that's all I can think of at present.........
 
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