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what did you do with the heater hoses? tee'd into the overflow? I would just loop the system instead.

diesel runs cooler lean.
 

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2001 GU ST TD42t coil cab (gold)
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Why would he do that instead of doing it right and have a functioning demister for the cooler weather and being 100% legal and roadworthy. If it’s a conversion that has to be signed off then it would a requirement by an good certified/engineer. It’s only 2 hoses ffs, if you can’t spring for the cost of those you shouldn’t be doing the conversion. Plus the TD needs all the coolant circulation and cooling it can get so if the heater core can take a fly sh!te of heat out that is a good thing.
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #103
You can tig the zd ends onto the gq hoses pretty easy for ac

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Hi hz_350, yeah I took the hoses to my mate who has the gear to TIG and he reckoned the rubber hoses were too close to where I needed to make the joins, the heat transfer would kill the hoses and the crimps would fail when it was pressurised. I was a bit disappointed... Am trying to get some from Patrolapart but they are out of stock ATM
 

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Discussion Starter #104
what did you do with the heater hoses? tee'd into the overflow? I would just loop the system instead.

diesel runs cooler lean.
Hey @patrolling, I looped the heater hoses from the thermostat housing and teed the pipe that comes out of the top zd coolant overflow tank (the pressurised one) into that. The overflow from the top of the radiator goes into the bottom overflow tank as per OEM setup on the zd.

OK that's good if it runs cooler lean; would adjusting the timing assist in making it run cooler? have I advanced it too much do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Why would he do that instead of doing it right and have a functioning demister for the cooler weather and being 100% legal and roadworthy. If it’s a conversion that has to be signed off then it would a requirement by an good certified/engineer. It’s only 2 hoses ffs, if you can’t spring for the cost of those you shouldn’t be doing the conversion. Plus the TD needs all the coolant circulation and cooling it can get so if the heater core can take a fly sh!te of heat out that is a good thing.
Yo @festerGU, I do fully intend to have a functioning demister and a heater too for the two months of the year up here when it is required. I have ordered them, I just had to bodgy it up to get the car back on the road for the misso (unfortunately we are a one vehicle family :rolleyes:)
 

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TD42 conversion done with blood, sweat and beers
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Discussion Starter #106 (Edited)
Here are some pics of the final setup! Gets me excited every time I have a look at it lol!

intercooler4.jpg intake2.jpg intercooler5.jpg

This one is how I blocked the hole in the ZD air intake piping (jar lid, silicon and hose clamp). seems to be working for the moment. Proper bush mechanic job that one!

515513
 

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“If it works it’s not stupid,” old bush mechanic saying.
 

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Hi hz_350, yeah I took the hoses to my mate who has the gear to TIG and he reckoned the rubber hoses were too close to where I needed to make the joins, the heat transfer would kill the hoses and the crimps would fail when it was pressurised. I was a bit disappointed... Am trying to get some from Patrolapart but they are out of stock ATM
Do.you have an air con guy where you are. Those fittings are.normally sweat soldered/welded somehow. Your air con guy could change the ends or put new crimps on your ends and crimp.to some new hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Do.you have an air con guy where you are. Those fittings are.normally sweat soldered/welded somehow. Your air con guy could change the ends or put new crimps on your ends and crimp.to some new hose.
I rang around and was recommended one bloke, will try him next week when I finish work if I can't sort something else out. I'll have a closer look at the ends of the pipes too, if they are only soldered on that may change things...
 

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My mate welded his on but we are both sheeties.. maybe more confident.

You the gq heater hoses can be used they just twist over not ideal but gu hoses are dear af

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I rang around and was recommended one bloke, will try him next week when I finish work if I can't sort something else out. I'll have a closer look at the ends of the pipes too, if they are only soldered on that may change things...
It's not quite solder but very similar. I'm really sure what it is but I was speaking to the air con guy I know in town about it few years ago when he made me conversion hoses to mate the 1HD cruiser hoses to the 1HDFTE compressor. I think it is sort of sweated in. Either way a good air con guy should be able to make a hose easy enough. i didn't TIG mine back then because the hoses themselves were pretty ordinary so it was better to remake them with new hose.
 

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Hey @patrolling, I looped the heater hoses from the thermostat housing and teed the pipe that comes out of the top zd coolant overflow tank (the pressurised one) into that. The overflow from the top of the radiator goes into the bottom overflow tank as per OEM setup on the zd.

OK that's good if it runs cooler lean; would adjusting the timing assist in making it run cooler? have I advanced it too much do you think?
I'm not familiar with the zd30 setup cooling setup. I think I would check your gauge/sender to a known source first and go from there. I would even check your saas gauge when it arrives.

There is a mechanical pump tuning thread on here but I can't find it - maybe someone else can.

basics of timing adjustments;

Why would he do that instead of doing it right and have a functioning demister for the cooler weather and being 100% legal and roadworthy. If it’s a conversion that has to be signed off then it would a requirement by an good certified/engineer. It’s only 2 hoses ffs, if you can’t spring for the cost of those you shouldn’t be doing the conversion. Plus the TD needs all the coolant circulation and cooling it can get so if the heater core can take a fly sh!te of heat out that is a good thing.
why? not sure if you can read this from all the way up there on your high horse. in the previous post, he stated he has ordered ome heater hoses and has temporarily set up a bleed off to his overflow within the heater circuit. I was thinking it might be contributing to his temp problems, hence my comment.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
It's not quite solder but very similar. I'm really sure what it is but I was speaking to the air con guy I know in town about it few years ago when he made me conversion hoses to mate the 1HD cruiser hoses to the 1HDFTE compressor. I think it is sort of sweated in. Either way a good air con guy should be able to make a hose easy enough. i didn't TIG mine back then because the hoses themselves were pretty ordinary so it was better to remake them with new hose.
Cheers man i’ll Check
It out.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
I'm not familiar with the zd30 setup cooling setup. I think I would check your gauge/sender to a known source first and go from there. I would even check your saas gauge when it arrives.

There is a mechanical pump tuning thread on here but I can't find it - maybe someone else can.

basics of timing adjustments;



why? not sure if you can read this from all the way up there on your high horse. in the previous post, he stated he has ordered ome heater hoses and has temporarily set up a bleed off to his overflow within the heater circuit. I was thinking it might be contributing to his temp problems, hence my comment.
Thanks for the info @patrolling, will have a good read through it tomorrow.
Yeah I was thinking about pulling the sender and putting it in some boiling water or something but not quite sure how to earth it yet... I am about 85% confident the saas gauge and sender will give me a different (more accurate) reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #115 (Edited)
Checked under the car this arv, was feeling pretty good about the complete lack of oil leaks- until I saw this:

AFC1E66A-5A55-4413-AA77-56A18CCC4DDF.jpeg
Edit: it’s coming from the turbo, the oil drain line must be kinked and not working I think. Paid Pirtek a small fortune for it, not happy Jan 😡
 

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why? not sure if you can read this from all the way up there on your high horse. in the previous post, he stated he has ordered ome heater hoses and has temporarily set up a bleed off to his overflow within the heater circuit. I was thinking it might be contributing to his temp problems, hence my comment.
Yeah fair enough mate I missed that with the way some of these posts come up on the phone. I thought your post was in isolation and indicating there was no need or point setting up the heater hoses properly.:oops: Now if you don't mind I'll retire back to the comfort of my horse, I get antzy if I spend to much time down at ground level..too many wankers down there for my liking. :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #117 (Edited)
At work this week so commissioning work on the vehicle has been slow... I did however replace the turbo oil drain with some parts that Pirtek gave me, it looks much better and it's not kinked now.
Turbo drain.jpg

I have some other issues though I need advice on, namely:

1. Oil leaking down the driver's side of the block, at the back. I suspect it's probably coming from the rocker cover (can't see without removing intercooler), and I did overfill it a bit with oil before I ran it the first time, to allow it to get everywhere it needs to go. When I swapped the fitting on the sump for the turbo drain about 2L of oil ran out and it's still showing full on the dipstick so hopefully that's all it is...

2. Prior to running it the first time, I filled the radiator and overflow with distilled water. After driving it for a bit I topped up the radiator with another litre or so as it was low (I assume this is all the air coming out of the galleries). HOWEVER I checked again last night, when I removed the radiator cap there was a big vacuum and the water is very low again (overflow tanks empty too). Is this water still going into the galleries, or somewhere else? I have no air bleed valves anywhere so it is difficult to bleed it properly. The oil from the sump wasn't milky at all, there is a bit of oily residue inside the radiator but not much (could be from the ZD30 as I only flushed it with a hose while it was out, I didn't degrease inside the radiator).

It has only done a couple of short trips, I haven't taken it for a proper drive to bed the rings yet as I simply ran out of time before I had to come back to work- maybe this is a good thing as I don't want to kill it!

Anyone got any ideas?
 

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How much did you put in initially, the TD from memory takes about 15 litres. You have fill the block, head and heater core so lots of voids to bleed. I would think if you are using that much water it would show somehow.
A lot of people raise the front of the vehicle and put an open container in the neck of the rad and fill that and let it run to help bleed. There will be pics here somewhere. Plastic coke bottle etc or you can buy the proper thing from Supercheap etc. Other than that can't help. They are notoriously slow to bleed out but then I've never really had an issue, just drive it gently around the block a few times and keep topping up, then my drive to work is only light load and usually the truck only just gets to operating temp near work in the cooler weather so I just keep topping it up for a couple of days.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
How much did you put in initially, the TD from memory takes about 15 litres. You have fill the block, head and heater core so lots of voids to bleed. I would think if you are using that much water it would show somehow.
A lot of people raise the front of the vehicle and put an open container in the neck of the rad and fill that and let it run to help bleed. There will be pics here somewhere. Plastic coke bottle etc or you can buy the proper thing from Supercheap etc. Other than that can't help. They are notoriously slow to bleed out but then I've never really had an issue, just drive it gently around the block a few times and keep topping up, then my drive to work is only light load and usually the truck only just gets to operating temp near work in the cooler weather so I just keep topping it up for a couple of days.
I put at least 10-13L the first time I think, the another litre or two.

Yesterday arvo I topped it up again, parked it on a steep incline and ran it to operating temp while I massaged the radiator hoses a bit- got a few bubbles out but not a lot. I noticed blow-by had increased from nearly nothing to quite a bit. I probably should have stopped there but anyway.

Then I took it for a short drive, I worked it a bit but not too much (it has only driven a few k's and they were all short drives, not the sort of thing to bed in rings as I understand the process) and by the time I got back I noticed whitish smoke from the exhaust and just as I got home the engine was sounding rougher. I shut it down immediately and parked it up, I am trying not to think about it (so depressing). Haven't checked the oil but I reckon I know what it will look like. :(
 

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I had to do this 3 times last year when changing turbo twice and replacing IP later, for the ZD which is notorious for air trapping particularly in the head, this is a critical thing. What I do is have the front of the vehicle raised slightly so that radiator cap is the highest point, slowly filling the system using the method Fester speaks of so that water/coolant is well above the cap level and making sure the header tank is full and the surge tank is at the correct level, once that stage is found, start the vehicle and let it run, when the thermostat opens off course there will be movement and quite often the excess coolant above the cap with this system is enough to take up any air, if not just keep topping it up until you start to get expansion, then seal the system. Then what I do is monitor the expansion tank when cold everyday for a week and act accordingly, then every week for a month and that is usually it.

I know it's a different engine but it should still work just fine on all engines, has on all I've worked with even if they don't have surge tanks. BTW ZD holds around 13L.
 
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