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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys I am the proud owner of a beautiful 1984 lwb patrol with a L28 motor usual rust and dents but nothin I can't fix with elbow grease how ever unfortunately the engine is shagged and the cost of replacing it is to much can't find a crate motor anywhere as they are supposed to be cheap

Has anyone got any ideas for a cheap reconditioned engine ?
Or anybody put a different motor in ? What type ? Was it hard to do ?

Thanks for your help guys take it easy :D
 

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I would get it on the road using a L series motor, then look at a donk upgrade.

Try the ZX forums L24, L26 , L28 will work. L24 & L26 are less power, and the sump may be at the front. But at least it will be on the road.

Im in the process of getting a RB30 ready to go in my MK. But there is a lot of work and bits need to get it ready.

Guys have gone for V8 etc

Using a L series you should not need any eng certs to get it on the road (I didnt)
 

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In what way is it shagged? I really enjoyed rebuilding my L28. Did not even have to take it out of the car. A fair bit of 'work'. Play more like it. Cheap entertainment!

Mine was just using heaps of oil and so needed new pistons and rings. It had done 227,000km when I bought it and was using oil soon after that. I kept pouring the oil in at just about every fuel stop and finally rebuilt it at about 260,000km. Going well now, except that I forgot to retension the head bolts and I have just retensioned them after a small leak appeared between head and block. That seemed to solve the problem. But I also added a bottle of Iron Tight to stop a small stream of bubbles in the radiator.

Very satisfying to rebuild a motor if you have got a bit of time to spare, and a few tools.
 

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nissan gq
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2nd hand L28 motors shouldnt be tooo hard to find
There in as mention the "Z" cars as well as the 260C (2.6)280C (2.8 )
Few on here have picked em up for a few hundred
They are the cheaper end scale of the patrols
Wouldnt think buying a good nick complete L28 wagon shouldnt cost the earth

Where are u located ???
 

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you can also get L20A (small 2.0L 6 cyl, not to be confused with L20B which is big 4 cyl) and they are usually turbo in R30 skylines.

CRS (rod shop) do v8 kits to put holden or chev in place of the L28. its a bolt-in kit, no mods required. except for exhaust and radiator hoses, if you want to be real precise.
 

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nissan gq
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Plus a mod plate (more costs) depending which state your in
And depending on the vintage of the motor it mite need to run on straight LPG
Engine must comply with emission regs for the year of the patrol
 

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What I have paid.

L24 - $100 guy thought it was a l28 - untill I pulled it out. ( got a spare raditaor, alternator, tyre,
starter, tailgate, dissy etc) I got the car on the road with the l24 - killed the motor canning it off road. ( I didnot need
mod plates or eng cert to get it registered.

L28 - $130 - As a bonus it had been rebuilt recently plus had a holly carby.

RB30 - $100, Ex GQ - Sump at the rear.
- plus other out bits - $200 - ( Radiator (need deisil unit), mounting brakets, full injection system, power
steering pipes etc) Im getting very close to dropping it in.

If I dont go ahead with the RB30, I have another l28 lined up.
 

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Rebuilding a L28 is pretty cheap. I've bought most parts from the US: Pistons and rings, timing set, new oilpump and full gasket set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hey guys thanks for all the replies

well the crank has a chunk missin out of it where the harmonic balancer pulley fits in it and its about 1600 $ to get that fixed and im skint for time and money at the mo doing home renoes

some blokes from work have said i should glue or weld or liqiud metal the pulley on

but i dont want to have to worry about it falling off when im out bush

im in adelaide cheers
 

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I would not bother spending that type of money.

Can you post a photo of the problem?

Try your local ZX car and datsun car forums. You should pick a donk up for no more then a couple $100. I have swapped motors in a weekend - by my self, it's quicker if you have a hand (I need someone to help lining up the new motor). Also if you pull the motor, I would replace the clutch (unless the one in its in near new condition). Its the same amount of work to replace a clutch or motor.

You should be able to do the who job for less then $600 - depends on what you pay for the donk.

I also replaced the fan belts, dissy cap and leads when I done my last donk.

If you decide to swap donks,. Unbolt the power steering and air compressor and move to one side.
 

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hey guys thanks for all the replies

well the crank has a chunk missin out of it where the harmonic balancer pulley fits in it and its about 1600 $ to get that fixed and im skint for time and money at the mo doing home renoes

some blokes from work have said i should glue or weld or liqiud metal the pulley on

but i dont want to have to worry about it falling off when im out bush

im in adelaide cheers


That 'chunk' out of the crankshaft is possibly not really a big problem. I had the same thing with mine when I rebuilt the motor. The little Woodruff Key just fell out of the crank shaft because the slot was about twice as wide as it should have been. But a guy put me on to Metal Magic. It's a two part epoxy putty. I think I picked my tube up at Motor Traders. But probably get it from most auto shops.

Just clean out the slot with a bit of wet and dry. Sit the Woodruff key into position, sitting up tight against the undamaged side, being the right side of the slot I would say, and push the mixed Metal Magic into the slot with a small screw driver. It sets dry fairly quickly, but I think it takes a few hours if I remember correctly to reach maximum strength. The chap that told me about it was a mechanic. He said has used it many times over the years for this particular application and it has always worked.

The Woodruff key is really just to make sure the timing mark is in the correct position on the balancer. The actual grip on the crankshaft is from the interference/conical shape of the end of the shaft, and the correct torquing of the big bolt that tightens the balancer up against the taper on the shaft and also against the oil thrower and oil pump gear. I actually took the sump off and put a clean block of wood up against the crank to stop it from turning as I wound the bolt up to the correct torque of 157N.

Also you need to make sure when you push the balancer back on that you do not do any rocking of the balancer, back and forward at the top and bottom, to wiggle it on. Just keep it square to the crankshaft and push it straight on. Otherwise you will lever the Woodruff key loose from the Metal Magic bond! I found out this the hard way. I think I broke the glue joint twice before I woke up to what was going on. I thought it was just crappy glue. But it was my crappy technique!

The car has done about 35,000km now and no probs as far as that job is concerned.
But I should have readjusted the valve clearances a bit earlier than 30,000km. And I should have retorqued the head bolts a LOT earlier than 35000km after the rebuild!
 
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