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nissan
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
G'day, Looking at upgrading the family wagon (R50 Pathfinder). Have been looking at the late model 3.0 Di's (2005 -2007) and if I can stretch the budget maybe a 3.0 CRD. Must be an Automatic.

I have an 05 4.2tdi coil cab, so I'm not asking for buy a 4.2 etc.

I need 1st hand experiance on the day to day driveability, fuel economy, towing ability.(Jayco Hawk Outback Camper).
I know all about the horror stories of the early 3ltrs, I don't want to spend a fortune on mods to keep the engine alive.

I'm not after a rocket, just after a solid, comfortable, dependable, resonably economical vehicle that can take me and my family off road, and make it back home again.

About the only extras I'll stick on it are: Steel Bar, 285's (or 33 equiv), Duel Batteries, Snorkel, Possibly a rear bar.

Look forward to some 1st hand experiance's.

Cheers.
Dan
 

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bit cold out it seems
nissan
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CRD feels like it has less power but in reality it has a better spread of torque and is far more driveable than a Di. If you like driving like its stolen, get the Di. If you are happy just bumming around get the CRD.

The CRD has better fuel and turbo control. No ifs or buts about it. They have been out since 2007 and are yet to get a reputation for grenading like the Di.

The CRD may or may not be thirsty. Nissan dealers seem to be incapable of solving the problem.

Comes down to budget. the Di can be fitted with some cheap stuff to make it drive great and hopefully last longer.

They are both the only large sized 4wd wagons with 4cyl engines so pretty cheap to run and insure...so both get the tick of approval for sensibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks yom, Just the sort of response I was looking for.
I don't suppose you've had any experiance towing with either of the motors?
 

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bit cold out it seems
nissan
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Yes, I have actually with various weights up to what I'd estimate about 2.3t (horse float packed with crap)

CRD is easier to drive and get going, the better torque spread is very noticeable in that regard. Lots of clutch slipping with either if you're near a hill or on sand. On the highway the CRD manual revs lower than the Di manual (slightly different gear ratios between the year models, the newer they are the less revs they do on the highway) and as a result on hills @ 100km/hr a CRD driver may find themselves swapping back to 4th much sooner than the higher revving Di driver (this may be deliberate by nissan to improve gearbox lifespan...the patrol 5th gear is an overdrive and not meant to have a load on it, plenty of 4.2TD and Di drivers kill their 5th gear by towing with it).

Autos would obviously not have this problem. If you plan on towing with the autos you really need to look at spending money on the gearbox - #1 would be a big arse transmission cooler with a thermostat (and a fan) if you're planning on going offroad with the trailer) and #2 what they call a shift kit. Other options would be manual torque converter lockup switch but that's if you want to be attentive while driving rather than select D and accelerate.

My belief with this is that just because a vehicle has a maximum rated towing capacity doesn't mean it is designed to pull that weight constantly. If you want to pull ANY weight over stock standard regularly then you need to start improving what the factory provided.
 

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Hi dull,
I have a crd auto and regularly tow a Jayco eagle offroader. If not towing the eagle I also get to tow a 5 meter fibreglass boat around. The rest of the time it is used as a daily driver. It handles the towing with ease, the only thing I do is take it out of overdrive in any slight hills to stop it hunting for the right gear. I run 33" muddies (BFG KM2) and find the ride excellent. I have upgraded the suspension with a 2" Lovells lift and that gave me a better tow, kept the jayco riding level and removed the small amount of drop I had when I hitched up the van. Economy is ok, I get about
16l/h towing at about 100k, about 12.5 touring without towing, and 14.5 around town. I found the economy had gone really bad recently, like about 17.5l/h around town, but fixed that by changing the air filter. The old one was filthy, Nissan only blow them clean every service and replace every 40,000k, I will keep a closer eye on the filter in future and replace every service
 

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Hottuna, great tip about the air filter. I change mine and see if economy improves.

CRD is a good tow horse if teaked up a bit for power. I tow 2,500kg around the place whenever I can get a bit of time off.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I tow a 5'5m boat and also have a heavy duty off road camper, my old ZD30 DI has no problems with either of them, personally I would go for the late model DI, cheaper, fuel economy a little better, but that's just my opinion.

You mention you don't want to spend a fortune to keep the engine (DI) alive, the later the model the less need to do anything and if you do, it doesn't really cost a fortune anyway. EGT gauge is a must and that should be fitted to a CRD as well.

As Hotuna implies (DI or CRD) regularly check your air filter, the economy will start to nose dive if it gets a slight build up of grime.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, sounds like I best test drive both a Di, and a CRD and see which feels nicest to me.
As much as I love buying cars, I hate all the research that has to be done before hand!
Thanks for all the responses.
Cheers
 

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I would go the crd, there has been 0 reports of them blowing up whereas the later model di has had a few go boom, nowhere near as many as the earlier models but still enough to give doubt.

If you do go crd make sure your getting clean fuel for it they don't seem to like any crap or water.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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So, sounds like I best test drive both a Di, and a CRD and see which feels nicest to me.
As much as I love buying cars, I hate all the research that has to be done before hand!
Thanks for all the responses.
Cheers
That's what you must do, you will always hear stories of a friend of a friend who had a really late model DI that blew up. Mate, all vehicles will blow up if you don't look after them. You should never buy a vehicle whose history you don't know about.

Ive got a DI had it since new, it blew up some time back, still have it but I know why it happened and it won't happen again. As I said earlier the later the DI the better, it will be cheaper than a CRD, if you find an earlier one and it has blown up all the better if it was repaired properly, that's where the history comes in. Mate, mine would be one of the best buys around, but I "ain't" parting with it.

As you say, drive a few see how it goes, balance what you want to spend against value for money and know the vehicles history (this applies to any vehicle otherwise your just buying someone else's problem).

I would buy another DI tomorrow if I needed another 4by.
 

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I think depending on the km's it a bit like rolling the dice as to when something might go wrong with a Di. There's no friend of a friend stuff here. In my circle of friends there has been 2 cracked heads (one also needing new bottom end - mine) and 2 turbo's fail in 4 vehicles. All these issues showed up between 80,000km's and 180,000km's and in well maintained vehicles.

Leroy
 

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I think depending on the km's it a bit like rolling the dice as to when something might go wrong with a Di. There's no friend of a friend stuff here. In my circle of friends there has been 2 cracked heads (one also needing new bottom end - mine) and 2 turbo's fail in 4 vehicles. All these issues showed up between 80,000km's and 180,000km's and in well maintained vehicles.

Leroy
All engines are like rolling the dice, particularly when out of warranty...

Go the CRD mate. More modern, and less need of mods. But as Patrol28 said, a good hydrophobic filter is a good idea!
 

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Get the extra $ somehow and buy the CRD... luv mine to bits.

I also suggest that the auto (which you said you need anyway) is a better engine/tranny combination. One of the "issues" you encounter is dual mass flywheel problems but that seems to be confined to the manuals. Any amount of clutch/flywheel discussions on here but very few from Auto owners.
 

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Get the extra $ somehow and buy the CRD... luv mine to bits.

I also suggest that the auto (which you said you need anyway) is a better engine/tranny combination. One of the "issues" you encounter is dual mass flywheel problems but that seems to be confined to the manuals. Any amount of clutch/flywheel discussions on here but very few from Auto owners.
Not seems, it is. The Dual mass fly wheel is used with manual gearboxes so the Auto's won't have this issue.

Leroy
 

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And your point? My point is any modern day engine can easily reach 300,000 km's with only maintenance. A diesel Patrol should be good for 400,000 km's + but they seem to cost a lot to get there :D

Leroy
My point? Umm, probably that a falcondore clocking up any k's, let alone 300000 without constant work is about a wishful thinking as me flogging Chad Reed around a supercross track for 30 laps.

I know where your coming from, but you've picked the two biggest lemon buckets of shi+ to ever grace tarmac as an example.
I dont believe there is any 2011 passenger engine that can, let alone easily get those k's wthout replacement/overhaul. Emissions, fuel types and efficiency targets have made it virtually impossible.
 

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My point? Umm, probably that a falcondore clocking up any k's, let alone 300000 without constant work is about a wishful thinking as me flogging Chad Reed around a supercross track for 30 laps.

I know where your coming from, but you've picked the two biggest lemon buckets of shi+ to ever grace tarmac as an example.
I dont believe there is any 2011 passenger engine that can, let alone easily get those k's wthout replacement/overhaul. Emissions, fuel types and efficiency targets have made it virtually impossible.

i disagree with you there, i had a vn commodore s pack as my first car which i bought off my parents who bought the car new in 1990, i gave it a hell of a time and all i had to replace was the waterpump! whe i sold it it had travelled 435k, and i have a bloke i worked with who had a series 1 vt commodore with 345k that only ever needed a new alternator!
 

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Not seems, it is. The Dual mass fly wheel is used with manual gearboxes so the Auto's won't have this issue.

Leroy
Cool, thanks for correcting me Leroy... :)

Mines a manual so I plead ignorance to what's on the auto's... just assumed they would have a similar flywheel setup so no wonder the Auto's don't have a problem
 
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