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Hi guys, I have a Mq with leaf over conversion done.just after some pics or info on what kind of rear shock mounts people have used.mine is the original plate,flipped upside down and the side has been butchered with a grinder to allow for ange of shock.the shock is now bent at the end and I want to know what my options are.also by making new mounts to accomodate longer shocks will i gain much travel?is it worth it?going to be replacing shox anywayany and was wondering if longer shocks =more flex or is it not that simple. advise would be much apreciated.
 

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Datsun Patrol MQ 1982 RB25DE NEO
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Flipped the original mounts upside down. Welded in a piece of angle with a bolt through the bottom to fit nice long shokker. Added a bumpstop on top and cut a few drainage holes.



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Datsun Patrol MQ 1982 RB25DE NEO
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Front



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Looks the goods Johan, though could we see a pic of the driver's side front? as id imagine its the trickiest to get right?
 

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how did u guys handle the front diff side u bolt issue

can u all give some info and post a pic, i wanna do over mine
 

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Datsun Patrol MQ 1982 RB25DE NEO
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Another 1 from the back while I am looking for the front...



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Drilled a hole through the back flat piece and fit the same size U-bolt both sides. Had to do some grinding to make it fit.



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okay, well we did a similar thing

didnt use back the U bolt tho, use two long bolts and a plate to connect at the bottom, im after some new longer stronger U bolts, so when i get these i shall make them work
 

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Datsun Patrol MQ 1982 RB25DE NEO
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What are you doing to prevent rear axle wrapping? That is also to stop the vehicle from swaying back and forth when stopping...







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Datsun Patrol MQ 1982 RB25DE NEO
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Front top mount.



Used the same shokkers front and rear.

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Drilled a hole through the back flat piece and fit the same size U-bolt both sides. Had to do some grinding to make it fit.



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Why is there a piece of square tubing between the leafspring and the axle? Doesn't look good at all!!
 

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This is how I did mine back in 2006. Never had any drama with it:

 

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Why is there a piece of square tubing between the leafspring and the axle? Doesn't look good at all!!
That was version 1.0. It was removed for version 2.0 :bananaro:
 

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This is how I did mine back in 2006. Never had any drama with it:
Cool idea, but I don't trust the welding on to the cast iron too much. I also had the original "squire" u-bolts break on me. That's why I went with the larger longer u-bolts round the bottom. :D

Many ways to do it. I am gathering ideas for my next SOA... Hopefully I can get it engineerd and keep it for a long time.... :cool:
 

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Can't be bothered going out in the dark to take a picture but my rear shock mounts are made from U section welded directly to the axle housing - looks tidier than most of the above examples. Make sure the plate that the U bolts goes through (I cut down the original ones to fit) don't stick out to much or your shocks will hit them on full compression - this advice applies to the front end as well (I have 4 shocks with little dents in them). My perches were all cut off the bottom of the axle and welded to the top except for the one by the front diff pumpkin where I have something similar to Jelmer 160 with a thicker U bolt to replace the one that breaks.
 

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Cool idea, but I don't trust the welding on to the cast iron too much. I also had the original "squire" u-bolts break on me. That's why I went with the larger longer u-bolts round the bottom. :D
That is what some people say but I never had problem with it and it is driven hard!! Been stuck where I thought both axles will seperate from the chassis while winching out but nothing happend to the weld. We did use a special rod to weld the cast iron though.
 

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Got all welding done by a professional - anyway the leaf springs are the first thing to break when you put heaps of strain on my PTO has killed two leaf springs
 
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