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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys

Just go a LED light bar for my Bday.
42 inch CREE LED LIGHT BAR 240 WATT

Looking to mount it on my Rhino Pioneer Roof Rack at the front probably right in front of the Rhino logo.

Just wondered if any one has a pic of this and if I need brackets back to the rack

Pioneer Spot Light Bracket - #43102 | Rhino-Rack

or just connect it to the front logo panel " not sure if it would be strong enough" it weights about 5kg.

Thanks
Steve
 

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Hi Steve,
I'd guess the plastic deflector wouldn't be strong enough to support it.
When I bought my tracklander, I could buy spotlight brackets that mount to my rack without needing to drill or anything.
TRACKLANDER - Front Mount Spotlight Brackets | Jaram Australia

The same sort of design should work on your rhino rack looking at the front cross bar in the pic supplied.
 

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You can get light brackets to suit the pioneer rack. Job done!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok thanks guys for the advice.
Did a bit more research and yes will use the Rhino brackets in conjunction with the Stedi base brackets
Bottom End Brackets for LED Light Bar

these brackets fit in a slot in the light bar and can be placed any were along the length of the bar. The problem with the Rhino brackets meant that the light bar side brackets had to be a certain distance apart. Which did not line up. Now I can put the Rhino bracket on and then move the Stedi base brackets to suit.

So should be good.
 

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How far back is your rack mounted? A lot of people have found that reflections from the bar on the bonnet, aerials etc are distracting...
 

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Are the rack slat's slotted/grooved underneath? Why not make some brackets that extend from the underside forward?
Or...make a 'Swan Neck' type bracket to mount the bar from the top side?
 

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I used 4 of the Rhino spotlight brackets on mine, as the light bar came with 4 mounts. I wouldn't be comfortable with only two for such a long bar.
 

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The light bar will be super reflective off your white aerial and possibly your bonnet mate. I had one on my roof and ended up using a black heat shrink on the UHF aerial to remove the reflection.

Those light bars above don't have a mounting option in the middle. You would need to mount the light bat to some angle and then mount to the roof rack with 4 mounts. That would stop any chance of the alloy chewing out on the roof rack. The 2 mounts on the light bar it's self is ample though.
 

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I found that to stop any reflection from the bonnet or bull bar, I had to mount the light bar way back on the roof (about directly above my head) then it also had to be really low to the roof (under my roof rack). At this spot, it still lights the road but not the bonnet or bull bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How far back is your rack mounted? A lot of people have found that reflections from the bar on the bonnet, aerials etc are distracting...
Yes I have read this and will try to mount it as low and as far back as possible to eliminate this. May be a shield on the bottom to help. Not sure will have to play with it.



Are the rack slat's slotted/grooved underneath? Why not make some brackets that extend from the underside forward?
Or...make a 'Swan Neck' type bracket to mount the bar from the top side?

Yeah I can buy these
Pioneer Spot Light Bracket - #43102 | Rhino-Rack from Rhino might be the way to go.

I used 4 of the Rhino spotlight brackets on mine, as the light bar came with 4 mounts. I wouldn't be comfortable with only two for such a long bar.
The bar came with only 2 mount points so hoping this would be ok. Will have to watch out for vibrations and flex.

The light bar will be super reflective off your white aerial and possibly your bonnet mate. I had one on my roof and ended up using a black heat shrink on the UHF aerial to remove the reflection.

Those light bars above don't have a mounting option in the middle. You would need to mount the light bat to some angle and then mount to the roof rack with 4 mounts. That would stop any chance of the alloy chewing out on the roof rack. The 2 mounts on the light bar it's self is ample though.

Yeah have a mate that was going to do that with his aerial end up moving to the rear of his truck on his rear bar.

I found that to stop any reflection from the bonnet or bull bar, I had to mount the light bar way back on the roof (about directly above my head) then it also had to be really low to the roof (under my roof rack). At this spot, it still lights the road but not the bonnet or bull bar.
Thank for the info was looking to mount it a low and as far back for the same reasons. But not sure it would be that far back. Was thinking of making a shield of some sort to put under it to create the shadow on the bonnet, not sure how that would work yet.

Thanks
Steve
 

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Hey Steve,
I had mine all nicely sorted out but now I have changed to a new roof rack to mount my hard shell roof top camper. Unfortunately, I can't mount the LED bar in quite the same position as it was before. Bugger, I am back to square one and like you, I am thinking of making a shield of some sort.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok just found out from Stedi that their bottom bracket doesn't fit and there is no equivalent. Bottom End Brackets for LED Light Bar
Also Rhino want $40 for each bracket not for 2.

I also found out I can buy 10mm spacers for the rack and raise it in 10mm increments. This will allow me to mount it under the rack and as far back as I like.
So what do we think and how much of a gap between the roof and light. Any issues with wind etc.
 

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Ok just found out from Stedi that their bottom bracket doesn't fit and there is no equivalent. Bottom End Brackets for LED Light Bar

that bracket kit isn't showing the sliding blocks necessary to mount the adjustable supports

if they didn't come with your bar, them you'll need them as well

btw they will work with your lights - you lights have the guide channels on the top and botton of your bar - but the end cap on one side needs to come off to slide them on.

but, you do need the slide blocks as well
 

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Discussion Starter #17
that bracket kit isn't showing the sliding blocks necessary to mount the adjustable supports

if they didn't come with your bar, them you'll need them as well
Was just going to use the existing bracket and drill through the rack to bolt it on. Using some large diameter washer to distribute the bolt pressure.

I cant really use the sliding brackets as centres of the rack slats are 700mm or 1160mm and the light brackets centres are 1030mm or 1110mm so nothing lines up.

Steve
 

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I also found out I can buy 10mm spacers for the rack and raise it in 10mm increments. This will allow me to mount it under the rack and as far back as I like.
So what do we think and how much of a gap between the roof and light. Any issues with wind etc.
Spacing: I have had my light bars with less than 10mm gap to the roof in the center. With only 5mm it just rubbed on the roof when the rack was loaded and the car body flexed, so I put a bit of tape on the roof to save the paint.

Wind: I did find with my LED bar that with it fairly tight fit under the curved profile Rhino Rack, it caused the heat sink fins on the light bar to whistle. So I stuck a strip of foam rubber along the gap to stop it. Mine were Baja Stealth and the very fine bladed fins stick up rather than out the back of the light so it may not be an issue with yours for whistling.
 

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Was just going to use the existing bracket and drill through the rack to bolt it on. Using some large diameter washer to distribute the bolt pressure.

I cant really use the sliding brackets as centres of the rack slats are 700mm or 1160mm and the light brackets centres are 1030mm or 1110mm so nothing lines up.

Steve
the lightbar you have is a type c extrusion. the top and bottom of that extrusion is designed to take a sliding bolt (similar to how rhino roof racks and thule roof racks mount their brackets

you could make your own, ie get flat steel to the width of the runner in that extrusion (1 x end cap needs to come off to do this)

you can then drill out the flat bar pieces, thread them and then spot weld threaded rod to the piece (like the thule brackets)

at that point you can then use a variety of bracket types

all of the attached images are brackets using the slides. I used similar brackets on my old 10w x 200w type d led light bar extrusion

126W_CREE_GER_03-500x500.jpg

off-Road-LED-Light-Bar-18W-LED-Car-Light-LED-Work-Light.jpg

orb-mounting-web.jpg

NP-MNT.jpg

Roof Rack Mount.jpg

The last is an example of the slide bolt solution I'm talking about.

as long as there is sufficient meat in the rail, then you should be able to make a t-bolt to suit

31111-Universal-Awning-Kit-01.jpg

similar t bolt used on rhino bars
 

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Discussion Starter #20
the lightbar you have is a type c extrusion. the top and bottom of that extrusion is designed to take a sliding bolt (similar to how rhino roof racks and thule roof racks mount their brackets

you could make your own, ie get flat steel to the width of the runner in that extrusion (1 x end cap needs to come off to do this)

you can then drill out the flat bar pieces, thread them and then spot weld threaded rod to the piece (like the thule brackets)

at that point you can then use a variety of bracket types

all of the attached images are brackets using the slides. I used similar brackets on my old 10w x 200w type d led light bar extrusion

View attachment 216905

View attachment 216913

View attachment 216929

View attachment 216937

View attachment 216921

The last is an example of the slide bolt solution I'm talking about.

as long as there is sufficient meat in the rail, then you should be able to make a t-bolt to suit

View attachment 216945

similar t bolt used on rhino bars
Thanks for the comprehensive answer.
I got told non of these would be compatible. I suppose it was because you need to take the end cape off to use them. Is there any issues with removing an end cap and do you need to reseal the unit again. I vaguely remember reading it is a real issue if you get any moisture into the light.

Thanks
Steve
 
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