Following wuth interest whitie, I am keen to do as long as there is an improvement of some sort
Zappa
Zappa
No worries Zappa, it will be worth your whileZAPPAGU said:Following wuth interest whitie, I am keen to do as long as there is an improvement of some sort
Zappa
Very noisy tweak'e, but with the modded exhaust, the windows up and the radio on - what noise were we talking about??tweak'e said:noisy at all ?
used to run a facet on a mini motor (i think) and at idle it used to tick rather loudly.
incidentally i ran into this pump ....http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-12D/?image=large i think its a copy or bigger version of the later facet pumps. but 3/8 in/out and a much better 35 gph flow.
Zappa, the VP44 can take up to 16psi at its inlet but I do not know if the rest of the system (fuel filter head and O rings underneath) would be up to the task considering they were probably designed to work with vacuum.ZAPPAGU said:Is the holley red noisy and can you put too much pressure in, was thinkin ofan efi pump. super quiet but might be to much pressure?
Zappa
I used to run one of these after the fuel pump on a ski boat, it ran at 7psi, never had a drama.5upaMav said:Nice work Whitie. How did your sedimenter handle the additional pressure? No leaks?
you could hook it to the alt light output so it only runs when the alt is running. of course no fan belt will = no fuel and also theres the small problem of starting the motor. you realy want the fuel pump to come on when you turn the igntion on.Skiman said:Hey Whitie, great work there mate!
This is the safety side of me talking, in the event of an accident, will this pump continue pumping with the ignition on? I am assuming that it will.
Is there any reason why you couldn't hook the pump electrical supply so that the pump is only pumping when the engine is running? You could hook it up with a voltage supply switch (same as an alternator light but have power to the unit when the alternator is making over a given voltage eg 13.6 V).
My auto electrical terminoligy is very limited, as you may have guessed.
Just a thought
Mick.
Thanks Mick, you are right, it will keep the fuel line pressurised to 6psi with the ignition on.Skiman said:Hey Whitie, great work there mate!
This is the safety side of me talking, in the event of an accident, will this pump continue pumping with the ignition on? I am assuming that it will.
Hi Dan, same as before, one or two drops an hour leaking onto the chassis.5upaMav said:Nice work Whitie. How did your sedimenter handle the additional pressure? No leaks?
tweak'e said:you could hook it to the alt light output so it only runs when the alt is running. of course no fan belt will = no fuel and also theres the small problem of starting the motor. you realy want the fuel pump to come on when you turn the igntion on.
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I thought with the bypass check valve, you would still have a fuel supply to the engine at start up, or if the pump was to stop, i.e no alternator belt.
How long would a ZD30 run without alternator power anyway?
Mick.
I would be interested if anyone knows of an electronic fuel pressure sender and gauge combo that would be appropriate for this application. I'd make room for one of those! I know that a relatively cheap mechanical gauge on the output of Whitie's bleed point is ok for testing, but I'd prefer something that is sealed and more permanent.tweak'e said:also a low fuel pressure alarm would be good in case of pump failure or fuel filter blockage.
I hear ya mate. Though I did manage to get mine to stop leaking . . . . ever so gently!whitie said:I am sure that the sedimenter can be made to hold the pressure but I am too chicken to torque the sealing bolt any more with that glass bowl sandwiched in between :razz:
Im putting in a fuel pressure gauge when I do mine (Im in scavenge phase at the moment). I was originally going to put in a Holley 0-15 psi electric 2 1/16" er but it wouldnt have looked in-sync with my other VDO gauges (Black face, red needle) so Im now going with a Stewart Warner 0-15 psi 2 1/16" fuel pressure electric gauge. The senders are 1/8"NPT so I will adapt this in with the 3/8" (?) bleed point/ball valve set up on the standard fuel filter.5upaMav said:I would be interested if anyone knows of an electronic fuel pressure sender and gauge combo that would be appropriate for this application. I'd make room for one of those! I know that a relatively cheap mechanical gauge on the output of Whitie's bleed point is ok for testing, but I'd prefer something that is sealed and more permanent.
Anyone have experience here?
I hear ya mate. Though I did manage to get mine to stop leaking . . . . ever so gently!
Hi tweak'e, I would not recommend a second filter on the Di as the VP44 has enough to contend with.tweak'e said:true but you really want to get that pump running a little bit before you start in case there is any air bubbles caught in the system.
check valve is really just in case of pump failure. i would not like to use it often due to the large restriction the extra filters and check valve make.