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Lift pump install

10740 Views 39 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  G60 Rock Crawler
4
08-01-2008 (To follow the original thread, click on the 08-01-2008 and then click on the underlined "fuel pump issue" at the top right of the post.). I will use Post 3 of this thread to provide the update.


Hi all, Chaz and I have been working on slightly different setups for the lift pump mod, Chaz has kindly provided pictures of his handy work in another thread and on his website under the Fuel System link.

Here are the pictures for my end of the test setup using the Facet pump that I had purchased previously to overcome my fuel filter priming problems:


New inline 3amp fuse to battery.


I ended up hooking the relay up to the wiper via a 5 pin relay that had 2 pin 87's and a three way switch (on1-off-on2).

I hooked up the three way switch to the active of the relay, this way I can have it "on1" for normal relay controller operation, "off" to check the vacuum on the line and "on2" to bypass the relay (via the second pin 87) and prime the the fuel filter.

Switch shown set to "normal" (use relay) position.



The solid hose goes to the outlet of the Facet, the hose to the right (cable tied) is the original with a straight through barb to the inlet of the Facet.



Pump installed on the drivers side of the petrol tank's bash plate.



The VP44 is supposed to be a positive dispacement pump but it seems that it can - to a small degree - also control the amount of fuel that it is given.

With the motor off, the pump will pressurise to 5psi.
With the motor on, it will idle at between 1-2psi.
Normal driving, it drops to 0-1psi.
Heavy load, the pump goes into "draw mode" to help out the Facet and the line gets vacuum to 1Hg (compared to 5Hg without the Facet).

The motor seems to have more power and the EGT's have come down a bit (Chaz has noticed a 15-25c difference), I am guessing this is due to less aeration of the fuel.

I will update the post when I have completed the install with the final lift pump configuration (dual Facets - Walbro or Holley Red).

Cheers,
Whitie
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Following wuth interest whitie, I am keen to do as long as there is an improvement of some sort
Zappa
6
Lift pump install update

OK, only been a year but after much deliberation, I took OldMavs advise and installed the Holley Red, I also took tweak'es advise and re-plumbed the spill return line - gotta love this forum :bigthumb:.

These are pictures of the spill return line being moved to the outlet side of the VP44. The main reason for me doing this was to keep the spill from being pressurised and also, by moving the spill I assume that the fuel temp inside the pump will also be reduced.







This is a picture of the red which was installed on the drivers side of the tank. You can just make out a bit of the check valve installed across the red (brass bit around the top of the pump).



Metal work again complements of my bother in-law Domenico (just add it to the tab ay :lol: )



I tested the red for flow through when off and was surprised to find that depending on where the vanes stopped, it would provide varying degrees of resistance to flow so I installed a good quality check valve across it.



Updated results using the red:

With the motor off, the pump will pressurise to 6psi.
With the motor on, it will idle around 5psi.
Normal driving, it drops to 4-5psi.
Heavy load, it drops to 3psi (compared to 1Hg of vacuum with the Facet).

My butt dyno tells me that the red has flattened out the torque curve which was taking a nose dive from 1900rpm using the facet.

I am guesstimating my new setup to be pushing around the 150hp for my troubles, one day, I will have to get back on the dyno to see if I am right :p


Cheers,
Whitie
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noisy at all ?
used to run a facet on a mini motor (i think) and at idle it used to tick rather loudly.

incidentally i ran into this pump ....http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-12D/?image=large i think its a copy or bigger version of the later facet pumps. but 3/8 in/out and a much better 35 gph flow.

can't wait to see how the holley went :)
ZAPPAGU said:
Following wuth interest whitie, I am keen to do as long as there is an improvement of some sort
Zappa
No worries Zappa, it will be worth your while ;)

tweak'e said:
noisy at all ?
used to run a facet on a mini motor (i think) and at idle it used to tick rather loudly.

incidentally i ran into this pump ....http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-12D/?image=large i think its a copy or bigger version of the later facet pumps. but 3/8 in/out and a much better 35 gph flow.
Very noisy tweak'e, but with the modded exhaust, the windows up and the radio on - what noise were we talking about??

The 35 gph flow won't cut it for the mighty 3 ltr, it needs a real mans pump with 97 gph just like its big brother hehehe
Is the holley red noisy and can you put too much pressure in, was thinkin ofan efi pump. super quiet but might be to much pressure?
Zappa
ZAPPAGU said:
Is the holley red noisy and can you put too much pressure in, was thinkin ofan efi pump. super quiet but might be to much pressure?
Zappa
Zappa, the VP44 can take up to 16psi at its inlet but I do not know if the rest of the system (fuel filter head and O rings underneath) would be up to the task considering they were probably designed to work with vacuum.

5-7 psi is plenty for what we want to achieve and the red self regulates the pressure.
Roger that will look into it, I tow a 2.5 t digger so Im chasing a bit more poke. Next is the dump.
Cheers Zappa
Post 3 has now been updated with pictures...

:cheers:
Hey Whitie, great work there mate!

This is the safety side of me talking, in the event of an accident, will this pump continue pumping with the ignition on? I am assuming that it will.

Is there any reason why you couldn't hook the pump electrical supply so that the pump is only pumping when the engine is running? You could hook it up with a voltage supply switch (same as an alternator light but have power to the unit when the alternator is making over a given voltage eg 13.6 V).

My auto electrical terminoligy is very limited, as you may have guessed.

Just a thought

Mick.
Nice work Whitie. How did your sedimenter handle the additional pressure? No leaks?
5upaMav said:
Nice work Whitie. How did your sedimenter handle the additional pressure? No leaks?
I used to run one of these after the fuel pump on a ski boat, it ran at 7psi, never had a drama.

Mick.
Skiman said:
Hey Whitie, great work there mate!

This is the safety side of me talking, in the event of an accident, will this pump continue pumping with the ignition on? I am assuming that it will.

Is there any reason why you couldn't hook the pump electrical supply so that the pump is only pumping when the engine is running? You could hook it up with a voltage supply switch (same as an alternator light but have power to the unit when the alternator is making over a given voltage eg 13.6 V).

My auto electrical terminoligy is very limited, as you may have guessed.

Just a thought

Mick.
you could hook it to the alt light output so it only runs when the alt is running. of course no fan belt will = no fuel and also theres the small problem of starting the motor. you realy want the fuel pump to come on when you turn the igntion on.
mayby a voltage switch off the glows ? that givs the pump a quick run before you start. when i get a mo i wil have to work out something. there is kits around but usually involve complicated to build timers.
Skiman said:
Hey Whitie, great work there mate!

This is the safety side of me talking, in the event of an accident, will this pump continue pumping with the ignition on? I am assuming that it will.
Thanks Mick, you are right, it will keep the fuel line pressurised to 6psi with the ignition on.

This is not a problem unless the fuel line ruptures in the accident but then you also need to consider that diesel is less volatile than petrol anyway.

Tweak'e has kindly offered to look into this when he gets a chance so it will be good to see what he comes up with. I am always happy to have more safety built into the system :bigthumb:

5upaMav said:
Nice work Whitie. How did your sedimenter handle the additional pressure? No leaks?
Hi Dan, same as before, one or two drops an hour leaking onto the chassis.

I am sure that the sedimenter can be made to hold the pressure but I am too chicken to torque the sealing bolt any more with that glass bowl sandwiched in between :p

I kinda like the rust proofing that the diesel is providing to the drivers side of the chassis anyway ;)

:cheers:
tweak'e said:
you could hook it to the alt light output so it only runs when the alt is running. of course no fan belt will = no fuel and also theres the small problem of starting the motor. you realy want the fuel pump to come on when you turn the igntion on.
quote]

I thought with the bypass check valve, you would still have a fuel supply to the engine at start up, or if the pump was to stop, i.e no alternator belt.

How long would a ZD30 run without alternator power anyway?

Mick.
true but you really want to get that pump running a little bit before you start in case there is any air bubbles caught in the system.
check valve is really just in case of pump failure. i would not like to use it often due to the large restriction the extra filters and check valve make.

also a low fuel pressure alarm would be good in case of pump failure or fuel filter blockage.
tweak'e said:
also a low fuel pressure alarm would be good in case of pump failure or fuel filter blockage.
I would be interested if anyone knows of an electronic fuel pressure sender and gauge combo that would be appropriate for this application. I'd make room for one of those! I know that a relatively cheap mechanical gauge on the output of Whitie's bleed point is ok for testing, but I'd prefer something that is sealed and more permanent.

Anyone have experience here?

whitie said:
I am sure that the sedimenter can be made to hold the pressure but I am too chicken to torque the sealing bolt any more with that glass bowl sandwiched in between :razz:
I hear ya mate. Though I did manage to get mine to stop leaking . . . . ever so gently!
5upaMav said:
I would be interested if anyone knows of an electronic fuel pressure sender and gauge combo that would be appropriate for this application. I'd make room for one of those! I know that a relatively cheap mechanical gauge on the output of Whitie's bleed point is ok for testing, but I'd prefer something that is sealed and more permanent.

Anyone have experience here?



I hear ya mate. Though I did manage to get mine to stop leaking . . . . ever so gently!
Im putting in a fuel pressure gauge when I do mine (Im in scavenge phase at the moment). I was originally going to put in a Holley 0-15 psi electric 2 1/16" er but it wouldnt have looked in-sync with my other VDO gauges (Black face, red needle) so Im now going with a Stewart Warner 0-15 psi 2 1/16" fuel pressure electric gauge. The senders are 1/8"NPT so I will adapt this in with the 3/8" (?) bleed point/ball valve set up on the standard fuel filter.

When Im done Ill add put up some photos.
tweak'e said:
true but you really want to get that pump running a little bit before you start in case there is any air bubbles caught in the system.
check valve is really just in case of pump failure. i would not like to use it often due to the large restriction the extra filters and check valve make.
Hi tweak'e, I would not recommend a second filter on the Di as the VP44 has enough to contend with.

Just wanted to let you know though that with the pump off and the VP sucking through the standard filter, sedimentor and check valve, the vacuum gauge sits on 5Hg which makes me pretty happy.


Cheers
Nice bit of ingenuity fellas. I am also following this thread with great interest. As said, gotta love this forum. Well done.

Trev
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