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Hi all,
Long time reader, seldom poster. I have read all the lift pump threads and have decided its for me.
I have a new pump out in the shed and was wondering if its too big (too much flow)
It is a marine pump with a bronze impeller, brass head and stainless shaft.(MAXIFLOW brand)
Free flow spec is 3.7 gallons a minute. 222 gallons per hour.....alot.
Would this potentially airate (spelling?) the fuel or cause it to heat the fuel too much.
I also thought if I put a generic fuel filter pre pump and mounted it in the engine bay to make it work a bit harder it may flow substantially less, due to restriction and lift.
The packaging doen't have any info on what pressure the pump will generate but I can 'blow' through the pump when it is off so I suspect it'll probably not create a lot of pressure.
Do you think its too much?
Also, if I want to test it for flow in the fuel system would I mount the pre filter and pump and run it through the standard fuel fiter with the fuel line disconnected frim the IP to check flow, and then connect IP and add a pressure gauge post filter/pre IP with engine idling to check pressure?
Thanks
Gee
car is GQ, Engine is td 42, standard pump, full gu turbo set up 3' exhaust and no intercooler yet.
 

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sounds like you have a fuel transfer pump.
way to big. its probably got 25mm connections in it.
all it will do is spin in the fuel and froth it up. i think you need to get someone more suitable.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies
Cheers tweak'e-Its not that big (25mm) but its over 10mm. Aerating or frothing the fuel is what I was concerned about. I might still rig it up as a test just for curiositys sake......
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mounting position

I bit the bullet and bought a Carter 4600hp yesterday.
Has anybody mounted their pump in the engine bay. I'm thinking low on the driver side with a basic ryco z4 inline filter pre pump. easy to check filter if I have it there near the oil filters.
 

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These pumps (generally) work by pushing the fuel through, so are best mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible. More work to do for the installation, but this is the best location for them.

As for the filter, best not to go too fine, as you will suffer with fuel delivery. General practice is to have a higher micron rating filter than the main filter, purely to protect the electric pump.
 

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Would this be the right one for my td42t ?
No specs listed for it Laurie, but given its description as general use I will say its not what you need.

Just to be clear, this is for a lift pump, to assist your diesel injector pump?

If that is the case, then the Carter P4601HP is one of the better options. It has a good combination of pressure and volume suitable for the task.
 

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Ok thanks. Not sure if it's what I need or not. On cold start up it will mis a bit if you rev it up until it's up to running temperature and has a unburnt diesel smell.
 

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No specs listed for it Laurie, but given its description as general use I will say its not what you need.

Just to be clear, this is for a lift pump, to assist your diesel injector pump?

If that is the case, then the Carter P4601HP is one of the better options. It has a good combination of pressure and volume suitable for the task.
Does a TD42 need that much flow and fuel pressure? Carter 4600 yeah no problem. They even run fine with a Facet pump.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

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k thanks. Not sure if it's what I need or not. On cold start up it will mis a bit if you rev it up until it's up to running temperature and has a unburnt diesel smell.
A lift pump may help with your cold start issue, but don't count on it. Cold Start issues can be caused by a number of other things as well.

Air in System, Injector Pump worn out (lack of case pressure), Timing Retarded (their are two types of timing), fuel draining back to tank, there are more but these are the easiest to fix.

Some of these can be fixed by a lift pump Air and Drain Back, it may help with lack of case pressure in a worn pump, but wont help with timing.

I went though a long and protracted trouble shooting match to find my problem and having to use two fixes.

The first was drain back, fuel was returning to tank after sitting over night, I caused this problem by replacing the hard 10mm fuel line with a 20mm line having to remove the Hand Primer/Filter with a Filter with 20mm in/out. The second was timing, to explain there are two types of timing engine timing that is done by rotating the pump, the other is internal to the pump. The first is easy rotating the pump away from the block to increase timing the other way to decrease. The other is not as easy, internal pump timing,

Page3.jpg Page9.jpg

Now some VE Pumps have a Cold Start System but they will not work on a TD42 due to they all work on the spring side of the timing piston, damn you Nissan you put the pump on the wrong side of the motor. Now saying that you can still can increase the internal timing by replacing the cover on the high pressure side with one that is stepped.
VE side Plate.jpg
Downside with this fix is the motor will have a louder rattle at idle but have found I only need it in winter so when it warms up I go back to the flat faced cover, I got mine from Scott at Denco Diesel in Wagga.

I am working with a friend to design and build a replacement cover plate that will have a solenoid that on cold start will push the piston across on start then release when engine is warm.
 

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A lift pump may help with your cold start issue, but don't count on it. Cold Start issues can be caused by a number of other things as well.

Air in System, Injector Pump worn out (lack of case pressure), Timing Retarded (their are two types of timing), fuel draining back to tank, there are more but these are the easiest to fix.

Some of these can be fixed by a lift pump Air and Drain Back, it may help with lack of case pressure in a worn pump, but wont help with timing.

I went though a long and protracted trouble shooting match to find my problem and having to use two fixes.

The first was drain back, fuel was returning to tank after sitting over night, I caused this problem by replacing the hard 10mm fuel line with a 20mm line having to remove the Hand Primer/Filter with a Filter with 20mm in/out. The second was timing, to explain there are two types of timing engine timing that is done by rotating the pump, the other is internal to the pump. The first is easy rotating the pump away from the block to increase timing the other way to decrease. The other is not as easy, internal pump timing,

View attachment 512761 View attachment 512762

Now some VE Pumps have a Cold Start System but they will not work on a TD42 due to they all work on the spring side of the timing piston, damn you Nissan you put the pump on the wrong side of the motor. Now saying that you can still can increase the internal timing by replacing the cover on the high pressure side with one that is stepped.
View attachment 512763
Downside with this fix is the motor will have a louder rattle at idle but have found I only need it in winter so when it warms up I go back to the flat faced cover, I got mine from Scott at Denco Diesel in Wagga.

I am working with a friend to design and build a replacement cover plate that will have a solenoid that on cold start will push the piston across on start then release when engine is warm.
Thanks for your reply. Nothing's ever easy is it.
When it got dyno tuned the bloke said he played with the timing because it was retarded. It will do a little miss and a puff of white smoke every few seconds for a good couple of minutes when I lock the idle up to about 1200rpm on cold engine.
Smells very strong of diesel but
doesn't blow any smoke when driving. Even up hills I check in my mirror and can't see any smoke in cars headlights behind me.
 

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Thanks for your reply. Nothing's ever easy is it.
When it got dyno tuned the bloke said he played with the timing because it was retarded. It will do a little miss and a puff of white smoke every few seconds for a good couple of minutes when I lock the idle up to about 1200rpm on cold engine.
Smells very strong of diesel but
doesn't blow any smoke when driving. Even up hills I check in my mirror and can't see any smoke in cars headlights behind me.
The reason for the strong smell is the white smoke is unburnt diesel. By bumping the idle up to 1200 RPM the internal pump timing advances and is exactly what that stepped plate does only with the downside of rattle at idle.

Question needs to be asked now what pump have you got Std or Aftermarket Performance, if it Std how old is it this may help with figuring out the possible cause.
 

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The reason for the strong smell is the white smoke is unburnt diesel. By bumping the idle up to 1200 RPM the internal pump timing advances and is exactly what that stepped plate does only with the downside of rattle at idle.

Question needs to be asked now what pump have you got Std or Aftermarket Performance, if it Std how old is it this may help with figuring out the possible cause.
Pump is standard. Factory turbo 99 model with 310,000ks.
 

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My 00 td42t with 285k does it occasionally in the cold too.
Glow plugs were my suspicion.
Not bad enough to bother me though.
I have a carter lift pump.
No change.
 

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My 00 td42t with 285k does it occasionally in the cold too.
Glow plugs were my suspicion.
Not bad enough to bother me though.
I have a carter lift pump.
No change.
Think mine got worse after the tune. I did have to take it back to the tuner to get him to back the fuel off a bit because it was hitting 550c to easy. Unfortunately with the removal of the fuel it took away most of the extra power as well.
 
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