Many solar regs will not charge anything if they don't see a battery first. If the BMS has disconnected voltage, the regs won't sense the battery and turn on or start charging.
Lithium 12V Batteries Brands?
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Most dcdc chargers have a power supply mode that will put out a constant 12v that will wake the BMS.
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So the only reason I think it went to 11.5 and turned BMS off is because once the fridge had cycled us down to the point where the load disconnect turns the canopy off, my inverter was still on standby in the cab with a few items plugged in on charge so that would have taken me from 20ah left down to 11.5v
If i had of been near the car in that time (maybe a few days time window) then all I do is start the car or get charge into it somehow .
Can't really have the inverter on the load side of the battery protect for obvious reasons hence the BP not being able to shut it off at 20ah remaining
I'm using victron solar regs, i think they do wake up BMS but I want to test now
Why don't you have the inverter on the load side of the battery protection??
Only rated for 100a and it's in the canopy
Inverter is in the cab behind passenger seat fed by 70mm2 flex
Have measured 185a dc before when boiling the jug off the Ute
I have 1.5mm 2 core & earth going to canopy so I have 240v power in canopy
Can also set inverter to do different things with voltages I think and power save mode or something
Battery protect is acting as our load disconnect
BMS constant current rating is 150a so 300a for the 2 of them
So no issue with bms ratings for up to 10a 240v loads
When using bigger 240v loads you are with the car any way so if the load disconnect operates you can just start the car if it doesn't return past the disconnect voltage set point
Usually it will do so in the morning while boiling the jug as it's only natural for voltage to fall off under load, however as soon as the jug cycles you can see the voltage return to its lightly loaded value which if kept under 10A with these lithium we can use this value to estimate AH remaining.
Of course u could run an inverter of load side of the load disconnect but you would want to consider the rating of the device and keep inverter under this in its power rating
It's function is to leave 20ah in the battery reserved for starting the vehicle so it turns off aux loads like fridges and camp lights/outlets
This way both battery are starting and aux units
This means we have more ah for our aux loads
So if it was a dual batt system we would have 75 ah for aux
As it is a single battery type system we have 75x2 so 150
And 130 of that is for aux, then load discon operates
20 remains for starting
Just to clarify, battery protect and load disconnect are the same thing
Its called a battery protect as that's it's intention with chemistry that don't like big and constant deep cycling but with lithium we use it as a load discon as we can determine remaining ampacity or amp hours using voltage provided out load at the time of measuring voltage is like under 10 amps
U programme this with your phone using Bluetooth it's quite simple and straight forward.
So when considering total 12v system cost and bagging DCS because of the price, u can see where im coming from when u consider this unit is like a bit over 100 bucks and its all u need in terms of control gear for the system.
A good dc/dc can be quite expensive and
Even a dirty old sbdi12 Redarc is twice that price and they will almost always let you down under heavy winching if you force the solenoid closed and pass a winching current through it
I am biased to my setup because I have considered more things then most people, the more simple and bullet proof and lighter you can keep things the better.
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Its called a battery protect as that's it's intention with chemistry that don't like big and constant deep cycling but with lithium we use it as a load discon as we can determine remaining ampacity or amp hours using voltage provided out load at the time of measuring voltage is like under 10 amps
U programme this with your phone using Bluetooth it's quite simple and straight forward.
So when considering total 12v system cost and bagging DCS because of the price, u can see where im coming from when u consider this unit is like a bit over 100 bucks and its all u need in terms of control gear for the system.
A good dc/dc can be quite expensive and
Even a dirty old sbdi12 Redarc is twice that price and they will almost always let you down under heavy winching if you force the solenoid closed and pass a winching current through it
I am biased to my setup because I have considered more things then most people, the more simple and bullet proof and lighter you can keep things the better.
There are compromises with everything and the fact you need to bypass it is concerning to me. You say you're trying to save 20Ah by disconnecting some of your loads, but your not disconnecting your biggest load I don't get the logic. I'd run that just for the inverter and nothing else personally.
A lithium jump starter pack that doubles as a portable USB charger are less than $100. I know what I'd prefer. One less thing to go wrong (when bypassing even) and one that is multi-use. But hey I consider more than most people too.
I do like Victron gear though. My house is offgrid with lithium batteries and Victron equipment, so I'm bias too.
A lithium jump starter pack that doubles as a portable USB charger are less than $100. I know what I'd prefer. One less thing to go wrong (when bypassing even) and one that is multi-use. But hey I consider more than most people too.
I do like Victron gear though. My house is offgrid with lithium batteries and Victron equipment, so I'm bias too.
You need to think in terms of AH rather then just A
Yes I have a 2000w inverter, no it is not consuming 2000w constantly
I boil the jug, 185 amps for 2 minutes this uses 6.1 AH
Remember the rest of the car "bypasses" the load disconnect as well so stereo and parkers ect will draw the battery even after load discon operates.
How is this any worse then a traditional multi system setup?
Do u wire up your stereo to your second battery? Ok so some do..
Well u can all so do that with the load discon.
It's up to you what you want to allocate as main and aux loads and how you use them.
My inverter does small loads like charging phones or big ones like boiling the jug.
Small loads need quite a while to get the BMS to open circuit, maybe a few days.
Big loads, you are with the car as they are happening so its fine provided u dont try to boil the jug with less then 20ah remaining (battery protect will indicate this)
Even if you did, you would have 14 ish AH left to start the car which is plenty with these lithiums.
Another advantage of single system setup is the solar charges all, not prioritising one then the other like a traditional lead acid with say a sbi12d would do, and depending on the energy supply and demand perhaps never getting to charge the main battery again, which leaves you not being able to start the car because you were playing the stereo for to long or doing something equivelant to this.
It would help to draw it out but also consider a rational theory of operation
You are not going to run your 12/240v bd series comp fridge off 240v in your car just because you have an inverter and you can, you would likely wire it in 12 so you arent converting the power twice for no reason. Its not efficient.
And as said above, im sure my inverter can be programmed to cut off at a voltage point as well if i want so it is its own load disconnect
I just haven't been bothered to try because I haven't had any real issues using it the way i have been
I just went to AussieBatteries this afternoon to get either that Atlas 175 or a Giant 170. They are only. 50 mins up the road.Geez this one is well priced
ATLAS 175AH Lithium Deep Cycle Battery | 175ah Lithium Battery Australia | 175AH Lithium (LiFePO4)
ATLAS 12V 175Ah Lithium Ion LiFePO4 Battery & AUSTRALIA WIDE DELIVERY. Shop 12V 175AH Lithium Battery Online with Australia Wide Delivery. Atlas 12V 100Ah Lithium Ion Battery LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Recycle Camping RV Solar - The Atlas 12V 120Ah Lithium-Iron Phosphate Battery is perfect for...www.aussiebatteries.com.au
Aussie Batteries, 175Ah for $799 ($4.56/Ah)
Specs are all right, I think I'm gonna get one for the camper trailer. Not likely to exceed 100A continuous on it.
Young fella who served me recommended the Giant 170 for $899 so I went with that. That Atlas was currently $999.
The Giant has a 150 amp continuous discharge rating so should be ok with my 1500w inverter.
Way cheaper than the Renogy I was looking at and Renogy don’t have a really good reputation for after sales service.
Bloody hell that's a good price
Nissan Patrol GU4 2006 with Cummins ISDE4.5 270HP , 830 NM Engine Conversion
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I just bought one ( paid $560, see details below). the seller guarantee it works under the bonnet , and two years warranty. I will add some more insulation to protect it from heat source.
I did some research, and in fact, all or 99% of cells of the the Lifepo4 lithium batteries on the market are made in China. I don't think there are much difference between this one and the iTECH crank battery sold for nearly $1000, especially for the cells. Few month ago. a friend of my bought a iTECH 1420 CCA battery for his newly converted Patrol, but it only lasted few weeks. I think the battery died of heat.....Off course, he got full refund. And he is now using a SLA battery. at that time ,this was also turned me off to try a Lithium Lifepo4 battery in my car. No of these lithium cells like heat. Talked to some battery engineer in the factory, I have some good understanding: the lithium battery for the bonnet application is a very small unit in size, but packed with good insulation into the same SLA size case to make it heat proof. The space between the battery itself and the case is quiet large which allow good thick insulation to be filled in. So if you take a look the spec of iTECH1420 crank battery, it is only 64ah, so it must be a very small size ( cells) packed with a good insulation and a massive thick wires, may be a capacitor to allow it drew 1420cca. Anyway, I can see in the near future, the Lifepo4 Lithium will become much cheaper. And for the under bonnet application is also getting easier.
Watch the video below to see how those budge batteries performed and more interestingly, how they are packed. I will update mine new lithium crank battery once it has arrived.
I did some research, and in fact, all or 99% of cells of the the Lifepo4 lithium batteries on the market are made in China. I don't think there are much difference between this one and the iTECH crank battery sold for nearly $1000, especially for the cells. Few month ago. a friend of my bought a iTECH 1420 CCA battery for his newly converted Patrol, but it only lasted few weeks. I think the battery died of heat.....Off course, he got full refund. And he is now using a SLA battery. at that time ,this was also turned me off to try a Lithium Lifepo4 battery in my car. No of these lithium cells like heat. Talked to some battery engineer in the factory, I have some good understanding: the lithium battery for the bonnet application is a very small unit in size, but packed with good insulation into the same SLA size case to make it heat proof. The space between the battery itself and the case is quiet large which allow good thick insulation to be filled in. So if you take a look the spec of iTECH1420 crank battery, it is only 64ah, so it must be a very small size ( cells) packed with a good insulation and a massive thick wires, may be a capacitor to allow it drew 1420cca. Anyway, I can see in the near future, the Lifepo4 Lithium will become much cheaper. And for the under bonnet application is also getting easier.
Watch the video below to see how those budge batteries performed and more interestingly, how they are packed. I will update mine new lithium crank battery once it has arrived.
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Nissan Patrol GU4 2006 with Cummins ISDE4.5 270HP , 830 NM Engine Conversion
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Installed the new lithium crank battery in the engine bay, . Made a heat shield around it. And set the mppt to LifePo4 charge profile as well. The battery is charged by cars alternator and solar panel. 1100CCA, 90 AH. It has two years replacement warranty.
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I would run a conduit/duct from the front of the car like behind the grille and have it come into the side of the heat shield. This way when your cruising along its purging ambient air around the battery.
This will make it last much much much longer under bonnet.
I've had lithium under my bonnets for many years now.
This will make it last much much much longer under bonnet.
I've had lithium under my bonnets for many years now.
Nissan Patrol GU4 2006 with Cummins ISDE4.5 270HP , 830 NM Engine Conversion
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The battery is on the exhaust/turbo side. I added a double shield for better protection. Back to the Jan 2019, the previous 1st SLA battery installed only survived 3 months, then the replacement SLA installed with shield protection after over 3 and half years is still working , but is a bit tired. So I change to the lithium LifePo4. Both the cells and the electronic BMS don't like heat....good heat shield is a must. Hopefully it will last some years.
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