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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now I've fitted the Long Ranger tank to my GU I've noticed how much hotter the tank gets compared to the original one that had a heat deflection shield spot welded where it nears the exhaust.
I don't think that it would heat up the fuel to a dangerous level but I'm quite sure the pressure build up isn't good for the system? Do the vent pipes cope with this increased pressure build up? Surely petrol with a lower temperature is better for the system than petrol that's been heated up?

What have people done to reduce this temperature build up of the tank and probably the petrol inside also?
I was thinking of a deflector shield but don't want to weld anything onto my nice new tank.

Thoughts?
 

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nissan
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Use some exhaust wrap (looks like asbestos) next to the tank..
 

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Modify the exhaust, move it or shorten it.
 

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Use some fiberglass heat shield exhaust wrap will be by far the easiest solution.

I also have a Long Ranger rear tank but my 3" exhaust is well away from the tank. Mine is also a diesel ZD30 and the fuel pump is cooled by fuel and well known to heat up the tank as it recirculates back to the tank from the pump. I put a fuel cooler in line with the returning fuel to reduce the temperature before it comes back to the tank.

Not sure if that is an issue with a petrol, but it is better to shield the tank from heat as best as you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have some reflective aluminized heat sheild that I've used to protect the remotes on shocks, I'll try that first...I just wondered if this is normal for the Long Ranger after a swap?
Comparing the original tank to the LR one...it would be easy for the supplier to weld on a deflection plate before they spray coat them....maybe no one told them?
 

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nissan y61
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There no much you can do to solve the problem on standard pipe and LR tank apart from the silver heat proof foil and foam. That will not last long either so it best to just do a fuel test at the filter. Another thing to make sure is that the vent valve is ok. They tend to fail after a few years so maybe worth a check. I replace mine every 2 years and mine has just started to let air pass both ways.

I have 150L tank on my GU8 and when I built this one last week I double skinned that side of the tank but the fuel is the same temp at the filter so its made no difference from the OEM tank. I also increased the baffles holes and had the baffles made into a one peace section that is welded into the frame of the tank for extra strength (like a tank within a tank). The tank feels a little hot but you can rest you hand on it with out been burnt. I made all these changes to suit the A/C rear air con and the exhaust but it has made very little difference apart from a more professional fit.

here is the clearance on my tank.
 

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Nice looking stainless thank db.

I do think that the heat wrap you use can last a lot longer than you think. I had fiberglass heat wrap that I used on one of my previous cars it was foil on one side and it would have lasted five years or more and not falling apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mines a standard rear box Geordie. I was going to do something today but a night out with the local Russians put the mockers on any tinkering today :-(
 

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I did a bit reading that Kevlar plate can solve this issue.I was Reading about on hot rod site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finding Kevlar in Dubai would be pretty hard. I was able to make a heat shield at the weekend using an aluminium type material designed for such things....although it doesn't appear to have cooled the tank any!
A work in progress me thinks.
 

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Heat/fibreglass/exhaust wrap isn't real good on 4x4's it holds moisture in and eventually will make your exhaust rust
 
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