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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just snapped a stud on my rear left today and the nuts were loose. Also rear right were loose. It also happened to the rear left in Dec and completely lost the wheel. In Dec it was on standard gu steel wheels running 33inch AT's and today on 16x8 -13 steel wheels running 35 inch MT's. No I don't torque them but I do know how to do up wheel nuts. Never had a problem for the 2 years of owning the gu before Dec and never had a problem with any of my other cars. What issues could be causing this? I did notice today the rear left had no wheel weights on it but didn't feel any vibrations.
 

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Are you using genuine wheel nuts intended to match your type of wheel?

I've seen stacks of tire fitting places over-tighten wheel nuts to a point where the threads are stretched. This may have contributed to your lug nuts coming undone?
There are stacks of cheap Chinese made wheel nuts in the UAE market these days...they simply break/crack and then fall off when you least expect it.
 

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Nissan GU1 4.2
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GUs like to loose the left rear wheel this way. My first experience was with a GU in our last group on a Simpson crossing. Fell of half way up a sand dune 3 days into the crossing. I don't know why, but they just like to work loose on the left rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I replaced all the rear studs in Dec and they just came from my local auto spare parts place. I will replace all again with genuine this time. Nuts were chrome nuts, tapered and were for steel wheels. Again they were from the local auto parts store. I'm just thinking there must be another issue causing it.
 

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When mine went in for the recall for this all they did was sand the hub to remove any dirt/rust, make sure it was clean, then refit the wheel, torque up the nuts, and fit plastic indicator caps on the nuts.

Do the new rims have the correct hub size or is the weight of car sitting on the studs?.. There should be no weight on the studs.
 

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I had to replace the original wheel nuts (steel wheels) on the GU as they started to strip out and made changing wheels a real pain. Purchased some from the States and am really happy with the purchase.

I also started to use a torque wrench to tighten them up when rotating/changing the wheels at home after advice from the forum. I tighten the nuts up as normal and then torque them up. I have been surprised at the difference, quite often, between where I think they are done up tight, and how much extra I need to tension them up with the torque wrench. I am positive that some days my inbuilt torque wrench is way off and I am pleased that I take the little extra time to check it properly.

Also before any longish trip I check the torque with the wrench, and then I also check the nuts every couple of days with a wheel brace, particularly if off road and in sand, and have been surprised a couple of times as to how loose they have become.

I also think timo_ed is on the money with checking for build-up on the hub which stops the rim seating itself properly.
 

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i might have an idea, can you put up a picture of your wheels? same thing happened to mine about a month ago. I bought a set of US Wheels Stealth Crawlers and my own stupidity let me down, I didnt check the centre bore size on the wheels and they didnt fit properly (was 1mm off fitting) and i didnt notice till after a month of driving where i snapped 2 studs on one side and rounded off 6 on the other. also with some sunraysias now, they make them so they dont bolt flat to the hub, as is the case with the rims I have now
 

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If you're using the Nissan chromed 'acorn' wheel nuts, check that the studs are not too long and consequently bottoming out inside the nut making you think they are tight but aren't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Correct bore size and they are sunraysia type wheels. Going to have to get a new wheel now anyway and have ordered genuine wheel studs. I went around with a torque wrench yesterday and everyone may have moved a couple of degrees with torque set to the far end of the recommended scale. So I really don't think that is the problem, however I'm prepared to use my torque wrench to rule it out. I was using nuts from the local parts store that were for steel wheels and were easily long enough
 

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Nissan Urvan / Caravan
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If the centre bore is too large (u say it's spot on), incorrect wheel nuts used, not torqued correctly, studs stretched, studs greased / oiled, etc can all cause the sort of issues you describe.

I used to have a 6t truck. Tyre company had only 2 torque settings - cars and trucks. My truck wheel torque was 40% less than a big truck.

With a truck, in NZ, you have to have a removed wheel re-torqued within 100km's. I apply the same rule to my light vehicles too now.
 

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nissan gu 4.2tdi 2003
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If you're using the Nissan chromed 'acorn' wheel nuts, check that the studs are not too long and consequently bottoming out inside the nut making you think they are tight but aren't.
Gday DeeJay, The original acorn nuts have a pressed sheet metal cap on top and I'm sure if the studs were too long, they would simply pop the cap off or at the very least, deform the cap if the studs were not quite long enough to pop them off. regards Michael
 
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