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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some of you may remember my earlier posts regarding having a new head fitted.

Long story short- motor came completely out, new head, new glow plugs, new injectors.

Since then I've had an oil light come on (3rd gear, light load, 4-4.5thou revs)

So far after numerous "sleepovers" at the stealership both oil sensors and the resistor pack have been replaced. Stealership that's been looking at it has now send it to another stealership for them to look at, results so far are the oil pressure across all four cylinders is apparently down by about 20psi. (I don't know the actual pressure)

Talk is now to remove the sump and look at the pickup to see if it's blocks and a seal??

Any other ideas what it could be ???

Now the $8000 question. I never had an oil pressure problem until the motor came out, within 3 days of having the car back I had identified an issue and it's taken 2 months of back and forward to get this far. They're obviously going to try (and already hinted at) the "it's nothing we did" defence and try and make me pay for the sump to come off and look inside/fix. Where do you think I'd stand on the "it's something you did" line and try and get then to pay the costs??? (I've already paid for the sensors and resistor pack replacement that didn't fix the problem)
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Did they do the whole job? If so they should take responsibility, as long as you did nothing to bring it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They did all the work, all I've done is an oil change last week (tried an oil that car had before, to eliminate the oil as a factor) plus I put the glow plug timer in straight away and my jdvm went in last week.

I got the car back with the new head in New Year's Eve, oil light has been an identified issue since about 3 days after we got it back.

He mentioned about a possible blocked oil line/ blow seal, and followed that with a "it's nothing we touched when the motor was out"
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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They did all the work, all I've done is an oil change last week (tried an oil that car had before, to eliminate the oil as a factor) plus I put the glow plug timer in straight away and my jdvm went in last week.

I got the car back with the new head in New Year's Eve, oil light has been an identified issue since about 3 days after we got it back.

He mentioned about a possible blocked oil line/ blow seal, and followed that with a "it's nothing we touched when the motor was out"
Mate, it's a tough one, you can only keep at them, they will play on the point that it was coincidence that this has happened, so you need to have the willpower to keep at them.

Low oil pressure could be caused by many things, hard to pinpoint them all, the most obvious is something in the pickup or a seal in the feed system that is letting oil go to waste. If it was the pickup you would think there would be starvation at high revs not so noticeable at lower revs. Let us know how they go dropping the pan and looking up the guts.
 

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nissan patrol
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I wouldnt be telling them you have done the oil change personally.

They must warrant their work for a reasonable period. Clearly you have raised the issue (hopefully in writing email etc..) within 3 days so it is definitely related to the work that has been done.

If the oil pressure has been a problem for this long there is a good chance the bearings at least have been worn beyond normal amounts.

I would have a pretty strong stand point if I was you and not back down when they try and worm their way out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Havn't got the car back yet :( should be tomorrow

After pulling the sump off there was apparently "Something" partially blocking the pickup.

Not sure what yet, hopefully find out when I get it back tomorrow, if that was the cause of my problems the stealership stated they would be covering the costs (and so they bloody should :) ) they're road testing it in the morning, so time will tell if its fixed
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I would be looking for some documentation on the invoice/report, so that you have some evidence of this problem, just in case.
 

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Why the hell did they pull the engine just to change the head, seems a bit suspect to me maybe to charge more for labour.

Hell I did a complete rebuild on mine without lifting the engine out.

I am even thinking they didn't put your engine back in but put another one in its place.
 

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Thinking about it, where is the pressure relief valve on these, maybe its stuck open with a bit of crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The reason the motor got pulled was i had previously mentioned about an oil leak, (the standard one behind the AC compressor where the block/sump/timing cover meet).

They decided that to reconenct those 3 pieces and not have a leak if was better for them to remove the donk and seal it up properly.

It looks like my oil light problem has now been fixed, there was gunk in the oil pickup.. it was described at "swarf". we believe that the new head hadnt been cleaned properly and thats where the gunk originated from
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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The reason the motor got pulled was i had previously mentioned about an oil leak, (the standard one behind the AC compressor where the block/sump/timing cover meet).

They decided that to reconenct those 3 pieces and not have a leak if was better for them to remove the donk and seal it up properly.

It looks like my oil light problem has now been fixed, there was gunk in the oil pickup.. it was described at "swarf". we believe that the new head hadnt been cleaned properly and thats where the gunk originated from
Whoa! swarf is something that should never happen, it is basic engineering when assembling machinery to make sure everything is spotless before it is assembled. As said earlier, make sure you have all the invoices etc that have this detail written on it/them.
 

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Yes do have the swarf mentioned, when I did mine I made the mistake of expecting the engineering shop who set the head up to have cleaned the head, the resulting swarf made its way to the turbo and screwed that up.
 

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The reason the motor got pulled was i had previously mentioned about an oil leak, (the standard one behind the AC compressor where the block/sump/timing cover meet).

They decided that to reconenct those 3 pieces and not have a leak if was better for them to remove the donk and seal it up properly.
I have this leak and is progressively getting worse.... not looking forward to having to fix it. Does the whole engine really need to come out to fix this??
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Timing cover and sump need to come off to fix it properly, you can get the timing cover off with the donk still in, but to get the sump off the gearbox needs to come out....

When mine was getting done another stealership suggested that they just remove the timing cover and the front sump bolts and to squeeze gasket goo as far down the gap as they could get and that'll do the job...

Because of the top end rebuild that decided to take my donk out instead
 

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I took my patrol in for the umpteenth time to have the sump leak fixed, this time they removed the engine to fix it, one week later I noticed a small ticking sound coming from the motor, took it to another dealer service department one day before extended warranty expired, diagnosis was a spun bearing on the crankshaft, cause - overzealous sealant applied to sump gasket which blocked oil gallery to oil pump, fix was a new long motor minus the head which came off old motor.
Thansk
 
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