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Folks,

We tow a tandem caravan and I was wondering if there is anything on the market like self adhesive heat refective material that I can stick under the body to reduce heat from the exhaust.

Thanks
Ian & Estelle.
 

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I bought a gutter leak fix product that is similar to dynamat from Bunnings. It's also an aluminium backed bitumen product and I put it on the inside of my cab. It did make quite a bit of difference.

I also used in one of my Patrols an aluminium backed foam from Clark Rubber. It was easier to install, filtered out more road noise (the other stuff still filters noise), but was not as neat an install and fit.
 

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Folks,

We tow a tandem caravan and I was wondering if there is anything on the market like self adhesive heat refective material that I can stick under the body to reduce heat from the exhaust.

Thanks
Ian & Estelle.
Yes like said above you can use a heat insulating material in the cab floor, but to my mind, hat is only part of the problem. You need to reduce the heat getting to the floor.

On the hotter part of the exhaust you can use high temp fiberglass exhaust wrap (watch out it is scratchy stuff). Get it from any performance turbo car or auto shop.

I have used high temp heat shielding which I bought from an auto parts store that did a lot of specialist performance gear (can't remember a brand now it was 5 years ago). The stuff is exhaust and turbo heat shield sheeting. It is about three or four thin alluminium layers in a sort of dimpled layer so it has air space between layers. I simply cut it to size and bent the cut edges over then stuck it to the floor with silicone sealer.

I have used it down the firewall, and above the exhaust from front to rear floor, but not bothered further back than the diff.

Under the bonnet, I used foam with foil coating that I bought from Clarke Rubber. They have self adhesive stuff but it came off in a week. So again I stuck it on with silicone sealer. Covered the top half of the firewall along the bit which is the air intake box for the inside cab air vents. This reduces the pre heating of the air comming into the cab.

I also used the Clarke Rubber foil covered foam under the floor carpet in drivers and passenger foot well and over the transmission hump.

I even covered the intercooler with it to reduce heat soak.



 

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Are you trying to reduce heat in the cab of the Patrol or in the caravan?

The thread title suggests the Patrol but your description sounds like the van. If it's the van I'd suggest getting an exhaust centre to cut & reposition the tailpip to angle the exhaust out to the side more.

If it's the Patrol cab getting hot, the only successful way to do it is either Dynamat or you can get heat reflective alluminium sheeting but you need to bend it & screw it to the chassis yourself & I don't know who sells it. I've only ever seen it once.
 

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A
If it's the Patrol cab getting hot, the only successful way to do it is either Dynamat or you can get heat reflective alluminium sheeting but you need to bend it & screw it to the chassis yourself & I don't know who sells it. I've only ever seen it once.
I did not have to screw it on just glued with silicone sealer and it has been there about five or six years no problems.

The high temp exhaust heat shield sheeting is not that hard to get from a performance shop. I think I got it ordered in at an Auto-One store.
Heatshield Products - TPX Power Source

I see that these mobs also do heat proof self adhesive sheeting too.
http://www.thermalvelocity.com.au/Heat-Shields/c-1-113/



Or exhaust wrap.

http://www.thermalvelocity.com.au/Exhaust-Wraps-/c-1-105/
 

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I covered the whole underside of the front section of floor pan and trans tunnel of my HQ to keep the floor from heating up on long trips. I used self adhesive bitumen strips that have an Aluminium outer heat reflective covering. They were a genuine Holden part which GMH used on the underside of the floor pan of VN Commodores where the muffler is located. The strips were about 120mm wide, about 900mm long, and about 6mm thick. They conform to shape well and stick like **** to a blanket:D
 

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Most heat transfer from the engine bay comes from down low through the footwell & slightly above the footwell on the firewall. Unless you cover the entire firewall & most of the footwell you won't achieve much.

Test the temp of the top of the firewall both in the cab & the engine bay to see the transfer. You can do this by hand or with a thermometer. Also, drive your car with bare feet & rest your left foot against the footwell where the tunnel meets the footwell & see how hot it is. THAT is where your heat comes from.

There will also be transfer through the rear of the car near the rear muffler. The transfer into the cab is minimal though due to the trim & carpet in the luggage compartment. There is also more transfer along the left side of the car above the exhaust which I think is what this thread is about. Because they are constantly towing, the car is consantly under load, which keeps the exhaust hotter than usual, leading to more heat transfer into the cab.
 

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Most heat transfer from the engine bay comes from down low through the footwell & slightly above the footwell on the firewall.
Bollocks, heaps of heat comes in the air vents if you do not have the air conditioning going, the ambient air is heated up as it comes through the box at the top of the firewall and into the car.

Yes the exhaust IS the hottest bit and closest to the foot well, but it definitely has made a big difference to the temperature of the incomming air through the vents by covering the upper part of the firewall.

Unless you cover the entire firewall & most of the footwell you won't achieve much.
Yea OK that I agree, that is the go.
 

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As a thought, has anyone thought of taking the grill off the top infront of the windscreen and lined it with the 6mm alli backed heat reflective gear?

Cheese DD.
 

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Used close cell foam to replace underfelt and worked great to reduce temperature
 

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As a thought, has anyone thought of taking the grill off the top infront of the windscreen and lined it with the 6mm alli backed heat reflective gear?

Cheese DD.
Yes I have done that as well, but there is a silly black plastic thing directly over the fan intake and minimal clearance to insulate and still have adequate air flow.

I used the Clarke Rubber 5mm EVA closed cell foam with ally foil (stuck with silicone sealer). I think it has also made a little bit of difference, particularly on 35C+ days when the painted panels heat up so much you can't touch the bonnet.
 
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