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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Fellas, been a long time member but havent posted much recently (used to go by the user name Mitch before forgetting passwords and losing a bit of interest) so thought I'd start to give a bit back to the forum. Got three young kids 6 year old and three year old boys and a 2 week old daughter (Hence why I am up late typing!) with a wife that loves the outdoor lifestyle (hunting, fishing and camping) as much as me, and being an obsessed deer hunter/bowhunter, the Patrol gets me into and out of some gnarly areas at times.

Previously I had a 2001 GU 3.0L Patrol which after I did the standard Dawes valve mods and so on, was a reliable vehicle, I had it for a few years and sold it at 250K on the clock.




Prior to selling it I managed to find a good 2002 GUIII 4.2T.
I kept some gear of the 3.0L model and swapped it to the 4.2 to save some coin getting new accessories.




As it is today, it has the stock HT18 Turbo running 12PSI, Pyro and boost gauges, a recently installed Cross Country Intercooler, recently installed Radius 4" snorkel, stock pump, twin lockers, long range tanks, rear kaymar bar, 4.33 diffs, 35" tyres, OME suspension 3" lift, heavy duty panhards, heavy duty tie rod, Manual locking hubs, ARB roofrack, awning, Warn Magnum winch running a 6HP motor with rope, onboard shower and pump, and some other stuff. Its taken a while to get all the gear on it, but as we are never considering selling it there is no rush!

I'm currently keenly waiting on a TD05 18G from UFI that is on order with Matt.....:D Can't wait to fit this up and have the old girl move a little quicker and easier! Hope to compliment that with a DC6 pump down the track, and no doubt a clutch upgrade at that time from UFI too.

Heres a few pics from the 4" stainless snorkel fit up, the quality of Ritchies stuff from Radius Fabrications is awesome, as was their customer service.
Take the guard off, tape up the template, suck it up and have a crack with the 4" grinder and a cutting disc!!....this took a few deep breaths to start..LOL!


All good, tidy it up, can see the rub marks and misaligned OEM hole of the original snorkel which don't seal real well.


After the old snorkel is removed and the guard is off, you realise how restrictive these style snorkels are!


The radius 4" one is awesome. Great kit with all bits included and fits nice and tight, not much space between it and the aerial and was sure it wasnt going to fit when I first cut it all out, but it does, with mm to spare!


Remove the original airbox and grind/remove the lip/flange from the edge that bolted up to the inside of the engine bay so the silicone 90 degree elbow will fit over it.


Bit of misalignment and reboring required in the guard area:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·





I decided to fix the bracket to the A-Pillar with 6mm Rivnuts and some insulation rubber:


Complete:


The difference was slightly noticeable, the turbo breathes/spools a fraction easier with a little more induction noise heard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Provent installation

Next thing I fitted was an oil catch can prior to getting an intercooler installed. Don't want the patrol breathing oily sludge and residue into the inside of the cooler as it reduces the heat transfer efficiency of the unit. Got a provent and fitted it on a small bracket I made up onto the vacuum canister mounting hardware.



Seems neat enough and is doing the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Sydo, yeah I plan too, I have one of Matts UFI modded airbox lids on order with my 18G to help in the meantime, but am currently contemplating what to use and where to fit it. The Fatz uniot seems to have some really nice flow figures and people seem happy with them, but having the dual battery setup means moving crap around and trying to make room which is allready tight due to having the wider radiator which is almost hard up against the original airbox.

I'm actually thinking about removing the dual battery and doing a sealed battery install in the rear insteasd of the engine bay. The heat kills them quick in the bay as well. Been trying to find someone who has done this??

cheers, Luke
 

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Elmo
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That fits like a dick in a bum mate.

I hope for your sake you don't have any issues with anything in that region of the engine bay. Including LHS head light ;)
 

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Cheers for the snorkle install pics mate.
I'll be having a crack at installing a 4 inch on mine in a few weeks

Rig looks tough as
Booy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That looks pretty tight Sydo!
As Deccers said, bit of a bugger to work around, thats why I'm thinking of doing away with the dual battery location in the engine bay and making a roomier area for a good airbox.
We'll see what happens.

After the guard cut for the snorkel I wasnt worried about hacking my bonnet up!

I got my Cross Country cooler (about 12 weeks or so but did tell them I was not in a mad rush - my fault!) and set about installing it.

I am surprised that they do not flip one of the mounting tabs around the other way as it would bolt up into an exisiting threaded nut, instead of having to drill and bolt in two locations.....the other one, fair enough.

I had to remove my shower installation which was in the way, and massage the AC lines, bit of a pain but got there in the end. Remove the bonnet lining and away you go. Pull out the original cross over from turbo to the inlet manifold:

Out with the old:


In with the new:



Once the cooler was sitting in place I put the four corner foam blocks in place, closed the bonnet, and the four blocks stuck to the underside of the bonnet which allows you to mark the inside corners of the cooler cutout with a drill. I just drilled a 3mm bit into each corner, then marked up the 300x600 cutout.
Once marked up, I lifted the bonnet a bit, had a drop sheet on top of the motor/engine bay and masked all around the bonnet to catch the filings. I then took to the bonnet with the 4" grinder and 1mm steel cutting discs.....makes easy work of it! Once the top skin was removed you have to cut some structual pieces/ribs from the underside. When all done I gave the fresh edges a double coat of paint to seal them.









Without the scoop for a few days as it was getting painted.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Close to the AC line but massaged it out of the way.


Finished Product:


Overall happy with the quality of the product, it was finished very nicely, no damage, and everything was there. Wired the fan up and it sucks plenty of air.
I installed rivnuts for the front support struts, this way its an easy removal process instead of having to get into a tight spot to place a nut underneath the mounting point, screw in, screw out without worrying about dropping nuts and trying to hold them blindly while doing the bolt up.

Driving, well very very happy with the performance, I have around a 100-150 degree reduction on my EGT's!! Normally on 100km's/hr EGTs would be up around 300-350 Post turbo in the dump, but now they are around 250 degrees. Went up a hill today that is normally a foot lift on the accelerator and barely maintain 70km's/hr to reduce maintain 550 degrees maximum EGT,s today, foot down 450 degrees and 80km's hr.:D
There is a noticeable increase in torque, and boy does it make a difference to the induction noise coupled with the four inch snorkel, pretty loud induction/turbo whistle compared to normal, but told the Mrs to wait for the 18G to be fitted....she said great, so we are paying 5G's for a louder whistle......I shake my head they just don't get it.:rolleyes:

Looking forward to the turbo upgrade now.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks fellas, yeah Ardo, waiting keenly, might take a couple of days off work when it arrives and get it installed, might do my injectors as well as they are still originals.
We'll see.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sydo, have you or the other lads on here done the injectors yourselves? I'm guessing its relatively straight forward, just have to be careful not to bend the common connecting rail or snap it. I'm guessing the injectors are pretty tight as well. If theres any tips, let me know.....
Old out, new in and then bleed them?

Cheers,
Luke
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Swivel Hub rebuild

Well, a couple of weeks ago I noticed some oil on the driveway, bit unusual as the old girl has never dropped a spot before (except after an oil filter change!). Smelt it and thought diff or gearbox.....put it down to the ARB lockers blowing oil past the seals as per usual. Didn't think much of it then the next day, a bigger puddle.....had a look, oil all over the front left inside tyre. Crap! Axle seal!

HAd a think about it and thought bugger it, buy two kits and rebuild both swivel hubs, would do the old girl well for another 12 years! Well after finally get the motivation up, got stuck into it.
What a crap job! I understand the places charging $800 for the job now!
Its not overly difficult, just messy and time consuming. If you dont have a a seal removing tool, I strongly suggest getting one, very handy.

Anyway managed to get through it all and was surprised to find the state of the king pin bearings, pretty notchy!!! Could feel the swivel hub clicking as you rotated it!

The axle oil had washed all grease out of the CV and made a mess of the Spindle (stub axle) and wheel bearings. I thoroughly degreased the bearings and found they were in perfect condition so repacked them with fresh grease and reinstalled them. Just need to probably check them in a hundred kms or so and nip them up again.

Everything was degreased, cleaned and then regreased and reinstalled. I used a decent swivel hub rebuild kit (about $150 for both sides) with Japanese Koyo bearings and then bought the genuine axle seals from Nissan, discarding the after market ones.

Basically I took the wheels off, manual hubs off, Brake calliper off and tied up out the way, rotor and main axle hub off, then take the stub axle off, CV out, then undo the king pin bearings and remove them finally removing the back cover plate for the wiper seals behind the knuckle and then lift of the swivel housing.
Knock out the Kingpin bearing caps being careful to use a small chisel or screwdriver in the little cutout to miss damaging the bearing caps (thin metal cap with rubber lip seal used to seperate the different greases (I assume) I damaged one cap but I used the same LMM grease in the CV and the kingpin bearings so wasnt fussed to not use one there.

Removed the seals with the seal removal tool, and gently inserted the new seals with a wooden drift. The King poin bearings I didnt have an appropriate bearing opuller that would work on them, so for those that also don't have one, cut the outer race with tin snips, remove the race and rollers, then a cold chisel hammer and patience will remove the bearing body from the kingpin. Takes a while and get sore hands but it works.
Gently tapped the new bearings on with hammer and a socket that was the perfect fit.

Anyway, got it all back together and no leaks!! Best of all I have nice firm non wandering steering now.






King pin Bearing:


King Pin bearing showing wear in cup:


Stub Axle:


King Pin Bearing cap:


Wheel Bearings after leaking oil got into the grease:


Cleaned with seal installed:


The final part is installing the scraper seals on the back of the knuckle, make sure of coursze they are in the right order. The first side was a dream, the second, well a few harsh words were uttered and a couple of get ups and walk aways required......can be frustrating to get the three items to fit and stay in place prior to doing up the cover plates but patience wins in the end.

NOTE: be aware of how many shims are in place on the king pin bearing assemblies. I only had one top and bottom, and found they were sufficient to give me a good approximation of the .5kg force required minimum, to move the swivel hubs. The important thing is ensuring the sdame number of shim/s are on the top bearing assembly as the bottom otherwise the axle will not be sitting central and will wear things quickly.

Hope that helps someone who needs to do this and hasn't done it before, Just take your time and think about things.

Cheers,
Luke
 

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Sydoforumsuperfan :)
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Hi Luke. I just paid Graeme at gturbo to fit them when he fitted the new 12mm pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
UFI Gear

Well, a box of goodies turned up this week from out west!!!:D

Very impressive looking kit, thanks Matt, and all you other fellas for posting and sharing results and experiences, helped me make the decision. Well worth the wait, hopefully if I can I'll get around to fitting it from this friday arvo and over the weekend. Airbox lid mod first, and then everything else.....fair bit of work ahead of me I reckon!

Cheers,
Luke








 
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