Thank you
MAGIC box =Fully adjustable and tunable MAF - MAP & electronic VNT controller
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I definitely will, no worries.
Christmas period was not ideal to progress with testing of the first three industrial units, as I bumped into some issues with the latst BT modules I received. Hopefully I think I did find a software work-around.
Christmas period was not ideal to progress with testing of the first three industrial units, as I bumped into some issues with the latst BT modules I received. Hopefully I think I did find a software work-around.
Hi guys, just a quick update.
I have been working with @Bidja and @trev zd30 to make sure the box would install properly on their CRD. The CRDs have a different ECM, different sensors, and moreover different ways of testing their presence or absence.
We'll get there, a bit later than anticipated, but we'll get there. The good news is that the stock solenoid is the same, and that John found a way to make the ECM believe it is still in control of the solenoid although disconnected.
Yes, I know, it is not easy to be patient...
Europe is now facing its third wave of Coronavirus, which could well become a tsunami.
So take care.
I have been working with @Bidja and @trev zd30 to make sure the box would install properly on their CRD. The CRDs have a different ECM, different sensors, and moreover different ways of testing their presence or absence.
We'll get there, a bit later than anticipated, but we'll get there. The good news is that the stock solenoid is the same, and that John found a way to make the ECM believe it is still in control of the solenoid although disconnected.
Yes, I know, it is not easy to be patient...
Europe is now facing its third wave of Coronavirus, which could well become a tsunami.
So take care.
In preparation for Magic box install for CRD, some comments are provided for info and also could be relevant for DI.
VNT vac solenoid (Boost Control Valve) _As Phil discussed, "Magic box" requires a dedicated VNT vac solenoid for the control/operation of the VNT vanes. For CRD a 2nd solenoid (stock) is to be electrically connected back to ECM(ECU) to avoid a P0045 code to occur (solenoid open circuit) and result is limp type condition, or can use a dummy load (330ohm/1watt resistor) across the connector +/-ve poles(if no 2nd solenoid connected).
The resistor fix was originated by a fellow on ZD Warrior (Mat) and was posted by @skegbudley CRD boost controller removal and disable swirl valve mod
There was very little info of success with resistor mod to CRD MAF connector, so I trialed it for myself and works fine _ no codes and eng ran well. Spoke with the originator _ Mal on ZD warriors and he has had the 330 ohm resistor connected now for 2yrs and done 60,000ks with no problems.
It is worth considering retaining the ability to revert back to your current boost control arrangement, just in case of a Magic box defect or you wish to compare performance of different boost control methods. I will carry my manual boost control valves in the vehicle with hoses attached ready for easy install and yes need to turn off 12v IGN power to Magic box(has 12v IGN pwr inline fuse).
In my case I will have two vac solenoids installed _ dedicated one for Magic box (same as stock in my case) plus the OEM stock solenoid_I run a boost limiter valve arrangement with VNT Vac solenoid/ECU. When using Magic box, you need to block off any boost line to manual valves and all vac solenoid ports not in use but remains electrically connected (especially CRD)
Stock solenoid is: Patrol ZD30 boost solenoid (Nissan 14956 AD20A) DENSO139700-0441). Same both for DI/CRD
Best try and get your hands on a second hand solenoid but hard to find ($s vary considerable). Maybe lucky <$50 and seen up to $150)
Best new price that I have seen to date (local supplier)_$210+post:
GENUINE ISSAN PATROL GU Y61 ZD30 BOOST CONTROL VALVE 14956AD20A
Stock solenoid connectors are another issue again (may get a second hand one_think I am lucky), I have looked around for new connectors and have identified one that should arrive in post today Local $6.35 + $7.60 post. Will let you know outcome:
Mazda FD RX7 Idle Air Control Valve Connector IAC | eBay
@Phdv61 is using Pierburg N75 solenoid and Phil may comment further.
@trev zd30 researched and identified the CRD ECM (ecu) pin numbers / wire colours for the sensors that are the required inputs for "Magic box" function.
@Phdv61 may be a good time to provide some general info "Magic box" sensor inputs, associated pin # /colours for both DI and CRD.
Hope info helps.
Hi John,
You did well with Trevor in finding a way to make the CRD ECM believe it is still in control of the Solenoid.
There are therefore many ways to fit the Magic box to your CRD.
The documentation I am in the process of writing will explain the different install possiblities for the CRD on one hand and for the 3.0Di on the other. All depends upon what every single individual will want to do. My personal choice was to leave the stock cabling under the bonnet untouched, and add the necessay wires ( two wires, to drive a second Solenoid, but one would have done the job too). The existing solenoid and its cabling can also be re-used, but in that case, you need to cut one cable at the input of the ECM ( Solenoid grounding ), and shunt the ECM side with a resistor connected to a +12V ignition (CRD). It can also be done under the bonnet (Make sure you do watertight connections !), but in that case you will need additional wires from the cabin and a plug.
No need to say that cutting and tapping into the ECM wires has to be done with care. The wires are quite small, and there is minimum room around.
The MAP signal, the MAF signal, the TPS signal and the signal used to compute RPMs are taken at the input of the ECM. Dip switches on the Magic box allow proper decoding of the RPM signal (3.0DI and CRD have different timing).
Magic Box can adapt to various MAF / MAP sensors, and most vacuum solenoids. It is just a matter of setting the parameters properly on the display, then 'S'ave the configuration in the box, and forget.
Last, but not least, I have implemented a software key in the display software to use either PSI or Bar (Europe except UK ).
We'll get there.
![527676]()
![527677]()
You did well with Trevor in finding a way to make the CRD ECM believe it is still in control of the Solenoid.
There are therefore many ways to fit the Magic box to your CRD.
The documentation I am in the process of writing will explain the different install possiblities for the CRD on one hand and for the 3.0Di on the other. All depends upon what every single individual will want to do. My personal choice was to leave the stock cabling under the bonnet untouched, and add the necessay wires ( two wires, to drive a second Solenoid, but one would have done the job too). The existing solenoid and its cabling can also be re-used, but in that case, you need to cut one cable at the input of the ECM ( Solenoid grounding ), and shunt the ECM side with a resistor connected to a +12V ignition (CRD). It can also be done under the bonnet (Make sure you do watertight connections !), but in that case you will need additional wires from the cabin and a plug.
No need to say that cutting and tapping into the ECM wires has to be done with care. The wires are quite small, and there is minimum room around.
The MAP signal, the MAF signal, the TPS signal and the signal used to compute RPMs are taken at the input of the ECM. Dip switches on the Magic box allow proper decoding of the RPM signal (3.0DI and CRD have different timing).
Magic Box can adapt to various MAF / MAP sensors, and most vacuum solenoids. It is just a matter of setting the parameters properly on the display, then 'S'ave the configuration in the box, and forget.
Last, but not least, I have implemented a software key in the display software to use either PSI or Bar (Europe except UK ).
We'll get there.
Joined
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33 Posts
patient we are, good progress it seems like, i'm holding off buying anything else until hearing from you.... got good faith in your efforts !
Hi @sailorman
I know how hard it is to be patient. After trialing and testing all what was available, and still unhappy, I had to be patient myself while developping all that stuff.
In the last weekd I did some software mods to accomodate both the Di and the CRD sensors, just using the micro-switches In excess I had on my PCB ( in particular RPM signals have different timings).
I should be shipping the first two units to @Bidja and @trev zd30 in the days to come.
In the mean time, I will finalise the documentation detailing how to install, set-up, and use all the functionalities, such as connecting to the box by BT, adapting other MAF or MAP sensors, setting the turbo map, understanding and making use of displays, recording and replaying files, .. etc
Lots of pages.
I know how hard it is to be patient. After trialing and testing all what was available, and still unhappy, I had to be patient myself while developping all that stuff.
In the last weekd I did some software mods to accomodate both the Di and the CRD sensors, just using the micro-switches In excess I had on my PCB ( in particular RPM signals have different timings).
I should be shipping the first two units to @Bidja and @trev zd30 in the days to come.
In the mean time, I will finalise the documentation detailing how to install, set-up, and use all the functionalities, such as connecting to the box by BT, adapting other MAF or MAP sensors, setting the turbo map, understanding and making use of displays, recording and replaying files, .. etc
Lots of pages.
Hola el "holandés viviendo en todas las partes del mundo".
This is the third design. I first did a prototype 18 months ago, which received many hardware add-ons to overcome all issues I discovered one after the other. Then I did what I thought would be a final industrial unit, with a clean PCB, a BT interface and discrete electronics components. I run it for a year in my own Patrol without any issue.
But this design was taking a hell of a long time to build 'manually'. So I did a second one, with Surface Mounted Components (SMC). But there are still many non CMS components to solder manually ( micro-controller, barometer, MOSFET, all connectors.. etc ) so it is time consuming.
I have 20 PCBs, and enough components to build a few MAGIC BOXES .
For people who have 3.0Di like myself, I can build and ship 3 Units rapidly to the first three who will ask. I need to order components to build more. They come rather rapidly.
For People with CRDs, I suggest to wait until @Bidja and @trev zd30 have received and tested their own MAGIC BOX to make sure all is fine. The CRD carries different sensors, for RPM acquisition in particular. It should be fine, but you never know until you have tested it fully.
I never reaalized how much time it would take to build manufacture and ship these MAGIC BOXES, beyond the 1500 hours already spent in designing, developping and testing the hadware and the 5000 lines of code for firmware and setting/replay software.
The price for these three units for 3.0Di will be 300E + postage and handling for each country (around 30E for Australia), and 300E + P&H for the first three for 3.0 CRD.
Then 450 Euros + P&H.
This is the third design. I first did a prototype 18 months ago, which received many hardware add-ons to overcome all issues I discovered one after the other. Then I did what I thought would be a final industrial unit, with a clean PCB, a BT interface and discrete electronics components. I run it for a year in my own Patrol without any issue.
But this design was taking a hell of a long time to build 'manually'. So I did a second one, with Surface Mounted Components (SMC). But there are still many non CMS components to solder manually ( micro-controller, barometer, MOSFET, all connectors.. etc ) so it is time consuming.
I have 20 PCBs, and enough components to build a few MAGIC BOXES .
For people who have 3.0Di like myself, I can build and ship 3 Units rapidly to the first three who will ask. I need to order components to build more. They come rather rapidly.
For People with CRDs, I suggest to wait until @Bidja and @trev zd30 have received and tested their own MAGIC BOX to make sure all is fine. The CRD carries different sensors, for RPM acquisition in particular. It should be fine, but you never know until you have tested it fully.
I never reaalized how much time it would take to build manufacture and ship these MAGIC BOXES, beyond the 1500 hours already spent in designing, developping and testing the hadware and the 5000 lines of code for firmware and setting/replay software.
The price for these three units for 3.0Di will be 300E + postage and handling for each country (around 30E for Australia), and 300E + P&H for the first three for 3.0 CRD.
Then 450 Euros + P&H.
Deal. You will have the first CRD, as soon as I receive confirmation that MAF, MAP, RPM and TPS are properly acquired.
I assume you are in Holland right now ?
That would be much quicker and you would avoid any custom duty.
I assume you are in Holland right now ?
That would be much quicker and you would avoid any custom duty.
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